HALMAHERA

most sites in North Maluka are in Halmahera

Halmahera (east of northeast Sulawesi and north of Ambon) is the largest island in the Moluccas and North Maluka. Structured sort of like Sulawesi, is covers 17,780 square kilometers, is comprised of of four mountainous peninsulas and shaped like a Chinese character or a stylized “K.” It is rugged and sparsely populated. People get from place to place by boats that run along the coast rather than on roads across the island. Historically the island has been controlled by Ternate and Tidore and religiously is it occupied mostly by Muslims although there are several area that are predominately Christian.

Halmahera island, also called Gilolo or Jailolo, can reached by speedboat from Ternate and is home to about 450,000 people. Tobelo is the largest town on Halmahera. Sofifi, the capital of the province, is located on the west coast of the island. The sultan’s palace that once existed here is long gone and not even a trace of it remains. On the road to Sidangoli are some black sand beaches and traditional thatch-roof meeting halls. In the mountain forests between Sidangolo and Tobelo are thought to be some rare Wallace’s Standardwing Bird of Paradise, which are hardly ever seen. Danau Galela is the center of a former tourist area that was hit by sectarian violence in the late 1990s. On Morotai Island there are some World War II battle sites. A Japanese soldier hid out here until 1973 not realizing the war was over.

The largest island of Indonesia outside the five main islands, Halmahera lies at the core of a larger region, called Moro that includes the island and the coastline of Halmahera, and is closest to Morotai to the north. Halmahera’s attractions include white sandy beaches, unspoiled forests and the spectacular Mt Mamuya in the distance. Much of the island is still covered in forest.

History of Halmahera

Tropical Rainforest on Halmahera island

During the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, Halmahera was largely under the dominion of the powerful sultanate of Ternate. In the mid-sixteenth century, the island was the site of a Portuguese Jesuit mission visited by St. Francis Xavier (known here as St. Franciscus Xaverius). The Muslim states on Ternate and Halmahera rejected Christianity, and managed to drive the mission away from the island in 1571. Today half the population is Muslim and half is Christian. In the seventeenth century, Ternate further exerted its power over Morotai by repeatedly forcing major parts of the population to migrate from the island.

Halmahera played an important role during World War II. It was here that the Americans started their allied invasions against occupied Philippines and the South Pacific Islands. General McArthur resided on a small island close to Daruba where he planned and coordinated air strikes, sea invasions and counter-attacks against the Japanese. The American Daruba Airlfield had seven runways and can still be seen today.Due to the enormous amount of explosives, ammunition and guns still found in the shallow waters, the island remains off limits to divers. Only designated surveyors dive here.

Visiting Halmahera

Information and Tips: 1) North Halmahera Tourism Information Center (TIC), Jl. Bhayangkara, Tobelo. 2) North Halmahera Police Station, Jl. Rumah Sakit Umum, Tel. 0924 21024, Tobelo; 3) Diving Center is in Pulau Kakara: If you plan to dive, the best time to visit is during the dry season, which is usually from May to October. 3) For surfing, the best time is November and December, when the waves are at their highest points. 5) If you decide to stay in with the locals, be sure to bring in a guide or a friend who speaks in fluent Indonesian as only few people here can speak English well. 6) Bring mosquito repellent. 7) Internet Café, Star Computer, Jl. Elim 9 Gura, Tobelo; 8) Banks Available Are: a) Bank Negara Indonesia 1946 (Bni '46), Jl. Kemakmuran, Tel: +62 924 21008, 21037, Tobelo; b) Bank Rakyat Indonesia (Bri), Jl. Kemakmuran, Tel: +62 924 21240, Tobelo; c) Bank Pembangunan Daerah Maluku, Jl. Kemakmuran, Tel: +62 924 21225, Tobelo

Getting Around: Bemo (a motorized becak / rickshaw), mikrolet (blue minibuses), bentor (motorbike driven vehicle), ojek, and becak are all common land transportation on Halmahera Island.

Things to Buy: There are limited souvenirs available to buy in Halmahera. Shields (salawako) and swords (kalewang) are interesting cultural pieces, although they are made especially for Cakalele Dance, the local staged war dance and art performance. You’re best chance of finding souvenirs is in Tobelo where there is a small souvenir shop in Jalan Bhayangkara, 2nd floor, Hibualamo; Tobelo.

Accommodation and Restaurants in Halmahera

location and topographical map of Halmahera

There are several good and affordable hotels in Gilolo, Tobelo, Galela, Kao, Sidangoli, Buli, Saketa, and Weda. Away from these places, you might need to stay with local people in village. The facilities are very basic, although the hospitality can be very good. Here’s a list of places, mostly in Tobelo:
Hotel Presiden, Jl. Kemakmuran, Tel: +62 924 21312, Tobelo
Hotel Regina, Jl. Kemakmuran, Tel: +62 924 21149, Tobelo
Wisma Pelangi Agung, Jl. Karianga, Tel: +62 924 21510, Tobelo
Wisma Mulia
Wosia, Tel: +62 924 21511, Tobelo

Losmen Kita, Jl. A. R. Nada, Tel: +62 924 21398, Tobelo
Penginapan Nusantara, Jl. Hubota, Tobelo
Penginapan Meraksi Flower, Jl. Bhayangkara, Tel: +62 924 21129, Tobelo
Penginapan Karunia, Jl. Kemakmuran, Tel: +62 924 21202, Tobelo
Penginapan Vilahermosa, Jl. Parahiangan-wosia, Tel: +62 924 21312, Fax. +62 924 21203, Tobelo
Penginapan Alfa Mas, Jl. Alhaerat, Tel: +62 924 21543, Tobelo
Penginapan Megaria, Jl. Bhayangkara, Tel: +62 924 21232, Tobelo
Penginapan Sengkanaung, Jl. Puskesmas, Tel: +62 924 21865, Tobelo

Penginapan Asean Jaya, Jl. Pelabuhan, Tel: +62 924 21051, Tobelo
Penginapan Tondano Indah, Jl. Kemakmuran, Tel: +62 924 21836, Tobelo
Penginapan Golden Star
Lorong Salak-wosia, Tel: +62 924 21776, Tobelo
Penginapan Melati Mas, Jl. Kemakmuran, Tel: +62 924 21165, Tobelo
Wisma Salsabila, Jl. H. Simange, Tel: +62 924 22389, Tobelo
Penginapan Muslim, Tel. +62 923 21137, Fax. +62 923 21137 Daruba
Penginapan Dua Putri
Soakonora, Tel: +62 923 21137, Galela
Penginapan Daloha
Soasio, Galela

It’s easy to find decent restaurants or warungs on the island around the town center and Dufa-dufa Street on Tobelo. Specialities include Halua, Boboko, Lapis Tidore, Kue Bilolo, Mam Raka and Popeda. The following are some restaurants in mostly in Tobelo: 1) Choken, Jl. Kemakmuran, Tel: +62 924 21713, Tobelo; 2) Anugrah, Jl. Kemakmuran, Tobelo; 3) Kakara Cafe, Jl. H. Simange, Tel: +62 924 21908, Tobelo; 4) Orion, Jl. Kemakmuran, Tobelo Famili, Jl. Kemakmuran, Tobelo; 5) Pondok Indah; Pitu, Tobelo; 6) Malifut Indah, Jl. Trans Halut, Malifut

Getting There to Halmahera Island

There are a number of ways to reach Halmahera Island: 1) From Jakarta; By air : Batavia Air and Merpati Nusantara Airlines serve a direct flight from Jakarta — Makassar (transit city) — Ternate. Halmahera does not have any sizeable airports. Most air traffic comes through the provincial capital airport of Sultan Babullah Airport on Ternate Island. You can take a short hop from here to Galela Airport on Halmahera Island near Tobelo.

By boat: there are cruise liners that visit Halmahera. PELNI serves several alternatives: Lambelu,, Sinabung, Dorolanda and Ngapulu, cruise to Ternate twice a month. These liners will transit in several towns such as Semarang (Central Java), Surabaya (East Java), Makassar (South Sulawesi) and Bitung (North Sulawesi). Then, you can continue your trip by speedboat to Kota Baru for about 45 minutes, or you can get on a ferry from Bastiong Ferry Harbor, which will take two hours. Both of them will lead you to Sofifi (Halmahera).

From Surabaya: Merpati Nusantara Airlines or Express Air serves direct flights from Surabaya — Makassar (transit city) — Ternate, which will take about 4 hours. Then, you can take a short hop to Galela Airport on Halmahera Island. As the PELNI liners will transit in several towns, you can get on the liners from Surabaya (East Java) for a four-day cruise, shorter than Jakarta route. Afterwards, you can get on a ferry from Bastiong Ferry Harbor, which will lead you to Sofifi (Halmahera).

3) From Makassar: Merpati Nusantara Airlines or Express Air and Trigana Air will lead you to Ternate by its direct flight, which will take only 2 hours. Take a short hop to Galela Airport on Halmahera Island. From Makassar to Ternate, it will take three days by PELNI liners.

4) Departing from Manado: Wings Air has direct flights from Manado to Kao twice a week on Monday and Friday. Disembarking in Kao means that you have already arrived in North Halmahera. To reach Kao — Tobelo (the capital city); it takes one hour by car. For cruise liners, kilometers Elizabeth III departs every Monday. The cruise will take about 15 hours.

Airlines representatives: Merpati Airlines, Jl. Kemakmuran, Tel: +62 924 21167, Fax: +62 924 22322, Tobelo; Wings Air, Jl. Kemakmuran, Tel: +62 924 21713, Tobelo

Sights and Activities on Halmahera Island

The most popular activities on the island involve chillin’ on beaches and exploring forests, mountains, islands and volcanos. Surf at Dorume Beach, known for its huge waves, especially in December; which is the best time for surfers to visit. Along with it’s massive surf, the attraction here is the very fine sands of the beach that seem to glitter in the sun as they contain metallic grains. Kupakupa beach is ideal for canoeing, swimming and fishing. Kakara Island has the oldest Hibualamo (the big house or the village hall) around Tobelo, and is considered the cradle of Tobelorese culture.

Dodola Island

Dodola Island is surrounded by extensive white sandy beaches, which actually connect the neighboring islands of Dodola Besar and Dodola Kecil (Besar is Indonesian for large, and Kecil means small). The beautiful natural surrounds and clear waters make it a great spot for swimming, diving, snorkeling, and just simply relaxing. Dodola is also of some historical interest. During World War II, General McArthur and his forces often visited here for recreation.

Mount Dukono is one of three active volcanoes on Halmahera Island and one of the most active ones in Indonesia. It is possible to climb to the crater, which if often spewing smoke. The climb up the mountain is usually begun from Mamuya village. There you will find a volcano post, which can provide up-to-date information about the current state of the volcano. It is also possible to ride a motorbike to the slopes of the mountain. From there, you will have to walk for about two hours through primary forest and cross several ravines until finally reaching the hardened lahar (volcanic mud and debris) fields surrounding the crater of Dukono. Here you will find a camping spot for those who want to spend the night on the volcano and see the sunrise with starting a hike at 3:00am. From the camping spot, the crater is only one-hour walk away.

Talaga Biru, which literally means Blue Lake, is a small natural pond with exceptionally clear water, located near Mamuya village in Galela district. According to local legend, a long time ago fairies would descend from heaven to bathe here. Intriguingly, every single leaf falling into this pond from the surrounding trees always drifts to its shores, leaving the waters clear and translucent.

Batu Kopi, literally meaning Coffee Rock, is situated at Posiposi-Rao Beach in the South-West Morotai district. The name comes from local folklore, as it’s claimed that an aroma of coffee comes from this rock. Usually this aroma can be smelled towards the late afternoon. Here you can also swim, surf, dive, and take ride on a boat. For those who are interested in surfing, November and December are the ideal months to visit.

World War II-Related Sites on Halmahera Island

Kao World War II Historical Site, Halmahera

World War II Japanese Tunnels are located in the villages of Samuda and Duma in West Galela District and were used as hiding places by the Japanese military in the war. The one in Samuda is 20 meters long and has several chambers that are thought to have been used as meeting halls.

Kao is home to World War II-era bunkers and cannons.There are many relics of the war around the city, notably around Kuabang Airport. Here there are several bunkers and four cannons, which are still in good condition. The biggest bunker, with two halls and a 15-meter-long corridor, can be found near the runway. The runway itself was built by the Japanese military, and is now one of the most important airport facilities in North Halmahera.

For a combination of natural and historical attractions visit Sosol Beach and Tosimaru Shipwreck. The long black-sandy beach is free from strong currents so it’s a great place to relax and cool off with a swim. While you are here, look at the wreck of Tosimaru, a World War II Japanese cargo ship, which is visible from far away.

Just south of Morotai, several Second World War wrecks can be explored in Tobello Bay. These sites are really off the beaten track, so you’ll need to come here with a spirit for adventure. The unchartered territory here creates a “Robinson Crusoe” atmosphere, as there are absolutely no signs of humans, just beautiful coral islands and natural forests.

Diving Near Halmahera Island

Diving in the pristine waters amongst the tropical fish here is a remarkable experience. Due to the enormous amount of explosives, ammunition and guns from World War II still found in the shallow waters, many places remains off limits to for divers. Only designated surveyors dive here. Some of the most popular dive sites include:

1) Somola Bay is where you will find small islands, which offer blue seawaters and mangrove trees growing on stones. In this area, tourists can go canoeing while enjoying the beautiful Somola landscape. This beautiful area can be reached with the ship from Pune Beach, Galela District.

2) Tagalaya Island is one of the islands located up front from Tobelo Town. The water is calm and crystal clear, and a white-sand beach surrounds the entire island. Coral reefs rich with marine life are found at a depth of 2-10 meters off the coast of Tagalaya. Mangroves grow out of white sand and surrounded by the corals, make diving here a unique experience. You can also watch the locals fishing here.

3) Tobotobo Sea Garden is located in Toboto village, Loloda District and is an ideal place for both snorkeling or diving. Tobotobo also has thousands of bats thanging from mangroves trees and also white and blue pigeon’s bath place.

4) Rorangane Island is one of the uninhabited islands of North Halmahera, located just 15 minutes from Tobelo harbor. Similar to Tagalaya, the water is calm and crystal clear. White sand beaches surround the entire island. Besides offering good swimming spots, the coral reefs, at a depth of 10-30 meters, make it an ideal location for diving.

Image Sources: Wikimedia Commons

Text Sources: Indonesia Tourism website ( indonesia.travel ), Indonesia government websites, UNESCO, Wikipedia, Lonely Planet guides, New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, National Geographic, The New Yorker, Bloomberg, Reuters, Associated Press, AFP, Japan News, Yomiuri Shimbun, Compton's Encyclopedia and various books and other publications.

Updated in January 2026