MOUNT KINABALU

MOUNT KINABALU

Mount Kinabalu (three hours by minibus from Kota Kinabalu) is the highest mountain between the Himalayas and New Guinea. Almost as tall as Mont Blanc in the French Alps, it is 4,095 meters (13,335 feet) high and wasn't climb until 1851. The local Dusun people call the mountain the “the abode of the dead. The believe that a dragon guards the entrance to a place for lost souls at the base of the mountain. Each year a white cockerel is sacrificed to appease the spirits.

Seventy-five-square-kilometer Mount Kinabalu National Park was officially named Sabah first national park in 1964. In 2000, the park was declared Malaysia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site for its outstanding biological attributes. According to UNESCO: Kinabalu Park “has a very wide range of habitats, from rich tropical lowland and hill rainforest to tropical mountain forest, sub-alpine forest and scrub on the higher elevations. It has been designated as a Centre of Plant Diversity for Southeast Asia and is exceptionally rich in species with examples of flora from the Himalayas, China, Australia, Malaysia, as well as pan-tropical flora.” [Source: UNESCO]

“The site has a diverse biota and high endemism. The altitudinal and climatic gradient from tropical forest to alpine conditions combine with precipitous topography, diverse geology and frequent climate oscillations to provide conditions ideal for the development of new species. The Park contains high biodiversity with representatives from more than half the families of all flowering plants. The majority of Borneo’s mammals, birds, amphibians and invertebrates (many threatened and vulnerable) occur in the Park.”

According to the BBC: “Sabah's Kadazan Dusun tribe believe the mountain houses the spirits of their dead ancestors. The name Kinabalu is derived from the tribe's phrase "Aki Nabalu", which means resting place of the dead Climbers are told by guides, many of whom are Kadazan Dusun, to treat the mountain with respect and to refrain from shouting, screaming or cursing at it Every December the tribe conducts a ritual called the Monolob to appease the spirits and allow climbers to continue visiting the mountain A priestess, called a Bobolian, makes an offering of seven white chickens accompanied by seven chicken eggs, betel nuts, tobacco, limestone powder, and betel plant leaves. The Bobolian leads a chant and the chickens are then slaughtered, cooked, and given to the ceremony participantsIn the past, this ceremony was conducted before every ascent, and climbers used the cooked meat as rations for their journey.” [Source: BBC, June 12, 2015]

Visiting Mount Kinabalu

The entrance to Mount Kinabalu National Park is located at 1,585 meters above sea level and is the main starting point for the summit trail that leads to the top of Mount Kinabalu. The park covers an area of 754 square kilometers and is made up of Mount Kinabalu, Mount Tambayukon and the foothills. A variety of accommodation is available within the Park and in its surrounding areas, ranging from basic hostels to luxury chalets.

Surrounding the Kinabalu Park is a multitude of natural attractions and enjoyable activities. The Kinabalu Natural History Gallery is a great place to familiarize with what the Park has to offer to through a fascinating exhibition on the flora, fauna and geological make-up of the Park. Video presentations are screened daily at the Liwagu’s Visitors Centre and guided tours are also available. Approximately half an hour from the Kinabalu Park headquarters is the Poring Hot Springs, located 400 meters above sea level. It features hot sulphur spring baths claimed to have therapeutic values, a 41-meter canopy walk where visitors can hike among the towering canopies, the refreshing Kipungit and Langanan waterfalls, various gardens, a butterfly farm and an orchid conservation centre. In Mesilau, hike along the acclaimed Mesilau trail where you can spot various pitcher plants particularly the Nepenthes lowii, Nepenthes tentaculata and Nepenthes rajah.

Getting There: By Taxi or Car: Car rentals can be arranged through major hotels in Kota Kinabalu. Taxis go to Park HQ at Ranau and take a maximum of four passengers. You can negotiate for the taxi to pick you up from Park HQ for your return if you hire the whole taxi. By Bus: All express and minibuses between Kota Kinabalu and Ranau or Sandakan pass the park turn- off, from where it is just 100 meters to the Park HQ.

Geology, Biodiversity and Ecosystems of Mount Kinabalu

The mountains in Mount Kinabalu National Park have a fascinating geological history, taking 'just' a million years to form. The mighty Mount Kinabalu is actually a granite massif that was later thrust upwards through the crust of the surface. Subsequent erosion removed thousands of feet of the overlying sand and mud stone, exposing this massif. During the Ice Age, glaciers running across the summit smoothed it out, but the jagged peaks that stood out above the ice surface remained unaffected, retaining the extremely ragged surfaces. This rugged mountain remains the focal point of the National Park to this day.

According to UNESCO: As the highest mountain between the Himalayas and New Guinea, Mount Kinabalu (4,095 meters) holds a distinctive position for the biota of South-East Asia. Kinabalu is a granite intrusion formed 15 million years ago by the hardening of a mass of molten rock that rose beneath the sedimentary rocks of Borneo's Crocker Range. 1 million years ago this pluton was thrust upward by tectonic movements which continue to this day. The sandstone and shale that once covered the granite have been eroded to reveal the underlying rock. During the Pleistocene, glaciers covered Kinabalu's summit, scouring the granite plateau and sharpening the jagged peaks above the ice. The ice sheet disappeared 10,000 years ago. Since then, wind and water have sculpted the summit peaks further to create pinnacles and deep valleys. [Source: UNESCO]

“Natural vegetation covers 93 percent of the park with rich tropical lowland and hill rainforest (dominated by diptocarps) amounting to 35 percent. Tropical montane forest covers another 37 percent of the park with subalpine forest and evergreen scrub found at the higher elevations. Of particular conservation significance are vegetation types developed on ultramafic (serpentine) rocks. Ultramafic vegetation covers about 16 percent of the park and contains many species restricted to this substrate.

“The variety of Kinabalu's habitats includes 6 vegetation zones from lowland rainforest through to alpine scrub at 4,095 meters. Faunal diversity is also high with the majority of Borneo's mammals, birds, amphibians and invertebrates (many threatened and vulnerable) known to occur in the park. It is clear that Kinabalu Park contains the important and significant habitats for the in-situ conservation of biological diversity.

“The high species diversity of Kinabalu results from a number of factors: the great altitudinal and climatic gradient from tropical forest to alpine conditions; precipitous topography causing effective geographical isolation over short distances; the diverse geology with many localized edaphic conditions, particularly the ultramafic substrates; the frequent climate oscillations influenced by El Niño events; and geological history of the Malay archipelago and proximity to the much older Crocker Range.

“The above processes provide ideal conditions for a diverse biota, high endemism and rapid evolutionary rates. Wildlife is also diverse with 90 species of lowland mammal and 22 others found in the montane zone. Four species of primate occur and 326 bird species have been recorded. Mount Kinabalu is thus both species-rich and an important centre for endemism. Half of all Borneo's birds, mammals and amphibian species including many rare and endangered species occur in the park. Two-thirds of all Bornean reptiles and at least half of its plant species are represented in the park.”

Plants and Animals on Mount Kinabalu

The rain forests in park that surrounds the mountain is home to half the world’s flowering plants, including 1,000 species of orchid, 29 species of rhododendron several species of insect-eating pitcher plant. some large enough to swallow a rat, and two species of Rafflesia, the world's largest and stinkiest flower, which can measure one meter across. Large animals such as orangutans are around but people rarely see them. Sometimes people see flying lizards and 15-centimeter-long walking sticks and some of the 326 bird species, 62 frog and toad species and 850 butterfly species found in the park

As center of plant diversity in Southeast Asia, the park boasts more than 5,000 vascular plant species, an estimated 621 fern species, nine Nepenthes species. The Park has no shortage of fauna as well, being home to some 90 lowland mammal species, 22 montane mammal species, 21 bat species. Out of the 29 bird species that are endemic to Borneo, at least 17 are confined to the mountains, notably Mount Kinabalu. These include subspecies of the Red breasted Tree-partridge, Crimson-headed Wood-partridge and Mountain Blackbird.

According to UNESCO: “Despite its geological youth, it is exceptionally rich in species with elements from the Himalayas, China, Australia, Malesia and Pantropical floras. The park has between 5,000-6,000 vascular plant species, 1,000 of which are orchids. It is particularly rich in Ficus (78 taxa), ferns (610 species) and Nepenthes (9 species of pitcher plant). Rafflesia, a rare parasitic plant, is also found. The mountain flora has diverse 'living fossils' such as the celery pine and the trig-oak, the evolutionary link between oaks and beeches.” [Source: UNESCO]

“The species listed below represent a small sample of iconic and/or IUCN Red Listed animals and plants found in the property:
Alcedo euryzona / Blue-banded Kingfisher
Anthreptes rhodolaemus / Red-throated Sunbird
Callosciurus baluensis / Kinabalu Squirrel
Calyptomena viridis / Asian Green Broadbill
Chimarrogale phaeura / Bornean Water Shrew
Chloropsis cyanopogon / Lesser Green Leafbird
Crocidura monticola / Sunda Shrew
Cyornis turcosus / Malaysian Blue-flycatcher
Harpactes kasumba / Red-naped Trogon
Harpactes whiteheadi / Whitehead's Trogon”

Hiking on Mount Kinabalu

The summit of Mount Kinabalu is now a reasonable popular destination that can be reached as part of a two-day, round-trip hike. The 8.72 kilometer trail is steep and unrelenting but is well maintained with wooden railing and ropes and, surprisingly, even flush toilets every kilometer or so. Halfway up to the summit there is rest house that has cold drinks and good hot food.

Most of the hike is through dense rain forest. There are few views of anything other than trees and plants until one nears the top, which is covered mostly by barren rock. To enjoy the views from the summit of Borneo and the South China Sea one has to arrive there before the vista-obscuring clouds roll in not long after sunrise.

At the base camp and park headquarters of Mount Kinabalu, hikers pay entrance fees and make reservations to sleep at the hut near the top, where sleeping bags can be rented. From the base camp — located at an elevation of 1,500 meters — it is six kilometers on a mountain road to the trail head at an elevation of 1,900 meters. Most hikers are delivered there in a minibus.

As one climbs the six kilometer distance from the trail head to the hut, the trees get shorter and shorter and the air gets thinner and thinner. Everyone in the hut is usually asleep by 8:00pm so they can wake up around 2:00am for the final three-kilometer flashlight hike to the summit on a for the sunrise on a rocky alpine plateau.

A guide is required for the final section of the climb. There is one place where you have to pull yourself up a granite rock face on a rope. On clear days you can see some of the islands of the Philippines. After the clouds roll in most people begin the knee-numbing 8.72 kilometer descent.

In the old days Mount Kinabulu couldn't be climbed without a pagan priest. The offering at the top was seven slain chickens and seven eggs. There are stories of men who didn't make offering and fell of a cliff or something.

As the summit of Kinabalu Park is quite high it is best to bring warm clothing, including gloves and a hat to ward off the cold. Also, don’t forget to bring a highly water resistant knapsack and a raincoat or poncho or ven an umbrella in case it rains. Comfortable walking shoes or hiking boots are good idea. Be well prepared with energy snacks such as chocolate, nuts, glucose sweets and a water bottle. There are places you can get water on the hike up. Also bring a flashlight (torch) for pre-sunrise hiking and so you don’t gets lost and fall off a cliff looking for the toilet at night.

Contact the accommodation reservation at: Sutera Sanctuary Lodges, G.15, Ground Floor, Wisma Sabah, 88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia. Tel: 6088-243629, 6088-245742, Fax: 6088-259552, E-mail: info@suterasanctuarylodges.com, website: suterasanctuarylodges.com (online booking available)

Climbing the Mountain Torq on Mount Kinabalu

Apart from hiking up Mount Kinabalu, visitors can also experience the Mountain Torq, the world’s highest and Asia’s first Via Ferrata or ‘iron road’ at 3,200 meters to 3,800 meters above sea level. The various routes on the northern rock faces of Mount Kinabalu consist of a ‘trail’ that is made up of iron rungs, palettes, cables and rails. Depending on the preferred difficulty level, visitors can enroll in various activities such as the intro to single pitch or multi pitch sports climbing, intro to rappelling (abseiling) and introduction to rope ascending. Mount Kinabalu attracts thousands of climbers from around world every year and is also the venue of the annual Mount Kinabalu International Climbathon.

Via ferrata (or iron road in Italian), is a mountain path consisting of a series of rungs, rails and cables embracing the rock face. There are more than 300 via ferrata routes around the world and the world's highest via ferrata, can now be found on Mount Kinabalu in Malaysia, whereby the highest point starts at 3,400 meters and ends at 3,800 meters. This is the first time that the sport of via ferrata climbing is being introduced in Asia.

An activity for everyone, the via ferrata is devised to give people with little or no climbing experience access to rock faces normally reached by mountaineers and rock climbers.There are several requirements for one to take part in the via ferrata activity, including having an average fitness level, being able to hike up to 3,200 meters in 6 hours, being at least 10 years of age, being at least 1.3 meters tall; and, especially, having a fearlessness of heights (or willing to conquer their fear of heights).

This is a challenging adventure, and those interested to experience via ferrata on Mount Kinabalu should note that the beginner's route will let the climber take their first experience along the granite walls of Mount Kinabalu (a journey of about 2–3 hours). The intermediate route will let the climber experience a 4- to 5-hour journey, which will reward the climber with a breathtaking view of the heights and sights.

Rates For Mountain Guide And Porter At Kinabalu Park, (effective 1 st September 2011) : A. Guide Fee, Destination, Number of Climber, Fee per Day (RM),

Timpohon-Summit-Timpohon, 1-3, 4-6, 128.00, 150.00,

Timpohon-Summit-Mesilau/Mesilau-Summit-Timpohon, 1-3, 4-6, 143.00, 173.00,
Mesilau-Summit-Mesilau1-3, 4-6 150.00, 180.00,

Mesilau-King George Peak (Kotal’s Route), 1-3 (1 guide), 4-6 (2 guide), 7-8 (3 guide) 100.00, (per guide / per day),

Others Peaks Mt. Kinabalu (Western Plateau), St. John Peak, South Peak, Oyayubi Iwu Peak, St. Andrew, St. Alexandra, Victoria Peak, Gurkha Hut, Ugly Sister, Donkey Ears, Tunku Abdul Rahman, Lone Tree, Easy Valley, 25.00, 15.00, 20.00, 30.00, 30.00, 30.00, 30.00, 20.00, 20.00, 20.00, 45.00, 25.00,
a2Mt. Tambuyukon (Sub Station Monggis), Sub Station-Tambuyukon-Sub Station, Air Terjun Kikulat (Optional), 1-3, -, 70.00, 40.00,

Mt. Nambuyukong (Sub Station Serinsim, Kota Marudu), Sub Station-Nambuyukong-Sub Station, Sub Station-Air Terjun Misumpak-Sub Station, Sub Station-Makam Si Gunting-Sub Station, Sub Station-Batu Lebah-Sub Station, 1-8, 1-8, 1-8, 1-8, 60.00, 60.00, 20.00, 40.00,

Note: * For Mt.Kinabalu (Item 1-3),

One Mountain Guide is allowed to take a Maximum of Six (6) climbers., Rates For Porter (effective 1st Sept 2008) : B. Porter Fee, Destination, Weight, Fee Per Day (RM),

Timpohon-Laban Rata-Timpohon, 10kg, 40.00, Timpohon-Sayat-Sayat-Timpohon, 10kg, 47.00,

Timpohon-Summit-Timpohon, 10kg, 51.00, Mesilau-Laban Rata-Timpohon, 10kg, 45.00,
Mesilau-Sayat-Sayat-Timpohon, 10kg, 50.00, Mesilau-Summit-Timpohon, 10kg, 57.00,
Mesilau-Laban Rata-Mesilau, 10kg, 51.00, Mesilau-Sayat-Sayat-Mesilau, 10kg, 57.00, Mesilau-Summit-Mesilau, 10kg, 62.00,

Timpohon Gate-Eastern Ridge, 1kg, 22.00,

Timpohon Gate-Lone Tree, 1kg, 17.00,

Timpohon Gate-Easy Valley, 1kg, 16.00, Timpohon Gate-Gurkha Hut, 1kg, 13.00, Kotal’s Route, 10kg, 72.00,

Sub Station -Nambuyukong- Sub Station, 10kg, 37.00, Sub Station -Air Terjun Misumpak-Gua Kelawar-Sub Station, 10kg, 37.00,

Sub Station -Batu Penyangat- Sub Station, 10kg, 37.00, Sub Station -Tambuyukon- Sub Station (Monggis), 10kg, 43.00, Note:
* Maximum weight is 10 kgs and additional weight will be charged base on daily rate Per Kg. (Referring to item 1-9 & 14-18),

Mt Kinabalu Via Ferrata: Contact: Mountain Torq Sdn Bhd, Address : Unit 3-49, Asia City Complex, 3rd Flr, Jalan Asia City, 88900, Kota Kinabalu. Sabah, Malaysia, Tel: 6088-251 730 Email : admin@mountaintorq.com . Or, go directly to the Sabah Parks (at the Kinabalu Park reception counter) to arrange for a climbing permit, mountain guide, insurance, climbing certificate, porter service, and Transport to Timpohon Gate (starting point). Tel: 6088-889098

Naked Tourists and Other Problems on Mount Kinabalu

Tens of thousands of people climb Mount Kinabulu every year and few have problems other than headaches and dizziness associated with mild altitude sickness. But occasionally there are tragedies, due primally to people getting lost in rainy, foggy, windy weather, with temperatures that occasionally drop below freezing even though is less than 600 kilometers miles from the equator.

In the early 2000s, a 17-year-old British girl named Ellie James disappeared on the mountain. Her body was found a week later about 500 meters from where her brother was rescued. She and her brother went missing as they descended the mountain in bad weather. She died from exposure not a fall. In the 1990s, two Malaysian climbers disappeared without a trace. In the early 1970s, a young boy was lost. In 1994, a group of 18 British soldiers were lost for more than a month but all survived.. In the late 1990s, a 17-year-old girl who suffered a heart attack in the thin air at the summit died.

In 2015, four tourists who posed naked on Mount Kinabalu were given given jail terms and fined. Five others participated in the stunt, which became an international incident, managed to get out Malaysia before they could be caught. The BBC reported: “Briton Eleanor Hawkins, Canadians Lindsey and Danielle Peterson, and Dutchman Dylan Snel admitted causing a public disturbance. The group was blamed for a magnitude 5.9 earthquake after stripping on Mount Kinabalu, which is considered sacred. They were jailed for three days, but their sentences were back-dated to reflect time already served. A judge at Kota Kinabalu Magistrates' Court said the four had shown remorse and ordered the jail terms to run from 9 June, meaning the group is free to leave. “He also fined each defendant 5,000 Malaysian ringgit (£860/$1,330). [Source: BBC, June 12, 2015]

“Many Malaysians had been outraged by the group's behaviour... and the case was about "upholding the [country's] morals and customs". Earlier, the four arrived at court accompanied by officials wearing balaclavas. The accused covered their faces as they entered the building, surrounded by a media scrum. There's a lot of public anger still against the tourists because many of them believe Mount Kinabalu is a sacred spot where their souls go to rest when they die. The fact that these foreigners are alleged to have stripped on the peak, urinated and cursed at staff members trying to stop them is something that many locals say is disrespectful.” After the incident “an earthquake struck killing 18 people, including children, and leaving hundreds more stranded. Sabah state deputy chief minister Joseph Pairin Kitingan blamed it on the travellers showing "disrespect to the sacred mountain".

Sights in the Mount Kinabula Area

Other Sights in the Mount Kinabula Area include the Poring Hot Springs (25 kilometers from the park headquarters) and longhouses on the rivers that go into the interior. Many hikers head to Poring after the hike to soak their aching muscles.

Approximately half an hour from the Kinabalu Park headquarters, Poring Hot Springs is located 400 meters above sea level. It features hot sulphur spring baths claimed to have therapeutic values, a 41-meter canopy walk where visitors can hike among the towering canopies.

In the area are refreshing Kipungit and Langanan waterfalls, various gardens, a butterfly farm and an orchid conservation centre. In Mesilau, hike along the acclaimed Mesilau trail where you can spot various pitcher plants particularly the Nepenthes lowii, Nepenthes tentaculata and Nepenthes rajah.

Kundasang War Memorial: Commemorating the Sandakan Death March

Kundasang War Memorial (two hour drive from Kota Kinabalu, 10 minutes from Kinabalu Park) was one of the first memorials to commemorate the brave Australian and British Prisoners of War who died in Sandakan and during the infamous death marches to Ranau during World War II.

During the little publicized Sandakan Death in 1945 more than 2,700 British and Australian soldiers were forced to march through the steamy jungles of Borneo only to be shot when they reached their destination. Six men escaped — they survived by eating birds and monkeys as well as bugs and crawfish — but only one man survived the war.

The prisoners were brought to Sandakan in 1942 to build an airstrip. As the war went against the Japanese, food and medical supplies ran short and disease spread. Towards the end of the war, the Japanese feared an invasion and decided to move the soldiers inland. Those that couldn't keep up were executed on the spot. When rice supplies ran low prisoners were killed so there was more food for the Japanese soldiers. According to one war crime testimony, a Japanese sergeant told one group of condemned prisoners, "There's no rice, so I'm killing the lot of you today. Is there anything you want to say?"

The fort-like Memorial was designed by a local architect by the name of J.C. Robinson. It has four interlocking but separate gardens to represent the homelands of those who died: an Australian Garden, a formal English Garden of roses, a Borneo Garden with wild flowers of Kinabalu, and at the top level, is the Contemplation Garden with a reflection pool and pergola. The memorial is open to local and foreign visitors, not only to view the perfect gardens but to remember those who sacrificed their lives for the freedom of others. It is open to visitors with minimal entrance fees charged.

Getting There: By Car: Kundasang is located 90 kilometers or about a 2-hours' drive from Kota Kinabalu and only 10 minutes from Kinabalu Park by car. Contact: Mr. Sevee Chararuks, Tel: 6019-899 2041

Image Sources: Wikimedia Commons,

Text Sources: Malaysia Tourism websites, Malaysia government websites, UNESCO, Wikipedia, Lonely Planet guides, New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, National Geographic, The New Yorker, Bloomberg, Reuters, Associated Press, AFP, Japan News, Yomiuri Shimbun, Compton's Encyclopedia and various books and other publications.

Updated in August 2020


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