LOMBOK: HISTORY, PEOPLE, TOURISM, GETTING AROUND

LOMBOK

Lombok (a four hour ferry ride from Bali) is a quiet, conservative Muslim island with rice terraces, stunning beaches, clear waters, bamboo groves, wonderful reefs, monkey-filled jungles, volcanos, fog-covered mountains, straw-hatted farmers, painted donkey carts, cashew plantations and tiny fishing villages. Lombok Strait is a famous diving spot.

Located immediately east of Bali, Lombok is 112 kilometers (70 miles) long and 80 kilometers (50 miles) wide at its widest point and covers about 4,690 square kilometers (1,826 square miles). Gunung Rinjani, Indonesia's second-highest peak and highest volcano, dominates the northern part of the island. To the south is a fertile agricultural plain that is broadest along the western coast. It rolls up into hilly terrain in the south that abruptly breaks off into cliffs falling down to the Indian Ocean. The fertile central plains is where most of the people live. Lombok is dryer than Bali. The rainy season is between November and March; the dry season between May and August. The greatest rainfall is in the west. The south can get particularly dry and experience prolonged droughts. The 30 rivers found on the island are vital for agriculture.

The local Sasaks make up 85 percent of 4 million people on Lombok. They are regarded as friendly and hospitable and both devout Muslims and practicing animists. Much of the island is very conservative. Outside the popular beach areas, visitors are advised dress to modestly and refrain from public displays of affection. Western women have been harassed for wearing shorts. In 2000 there were some attacks directed at Chinese and Christians.

Lombok is separated by a deep trench that divides the Asian continental shelf from the Australian shelf. Biologist Alfred Wallace was the first to notice in the 19th century that Lombok’s flora and fauna differed from those on the western islands of the Indonesian archipelago. Since then the Wallace Line was drawn from the Lombok Straits northwards up the Makassar Straits — separating Kalimantan from Sulawesi — and on to the South China Sea, demarcating the Asian and the Australian ecozones.

History of Lombok

Dutch intervention in Lombok and Karangasem against the Karangasemese people of Bali in 1894

In the 16th century Lombok came to be ruled by the kingdom of Karangasem of east Bali and the town of Cakranegara became the home of the crown prince of Karangasem. Because of the Balinese conquest over the indigenous Sasak people, a large part of Lombok has marked Balinese historic and cultural heritage, especially around the city of Mataram.

But, even before the arrival of the Balinese, an Islamic priest from Java, known as Sunan Giri had already proselyted a large part of the local Sasak population to Islam, and who until now adhere to what is called the Wektu Telu — or the three times for daily prayers, differing from the 5 times obligatory prayers in Islam. Wektu Telu is a religion unique to the Sasak on Lombok that blends Islam with old traditions and beliefs. Today Lombok is also home to a minority of Hindu Balinese, as well as smaller numbers of Chinese, Javanese, Bugis and Arabs.

Under Dutch rule, new irrigation dams were constructed, increasing rice production. However, these gains were offset by a rapidly growing peasant population and the heavy burden of colonial taxation, combined with continuing obligations to traditional aristocrats. As a result, average daily rice consumption declined by approximately 25 percent between 1900 and 1930, falling from about 400 grams to 300 grams per person.

Lombok has continued to experience relatively high levels of illiteracy and infant mortality compared to other parts of Indonesia, although conditions improved during the period of national economic growth under the New Order regime (1966–1998). This progress was temporarily disrupted by the 1997–1998 Asian financial crisis. The subsequent expansion of international tourism—largely a spillover from neighboring Bali—has further shaped Lombok’s economy, though tourism has periodically declined due to national instability and local outbreaks of communal violence.

Between 1990 and 2004, West Nusa Tenggara recorded 198 incidents of communal violence, nearly all of which occurred on Lombok, with the notable exception of the 1998 riots in Kota Bima on Sumbawa. This figure is striking when compared to West Java, which, despite having more than nine times the population, experienced only 4.4 times as many incidents and 2.3 times as many resulting deaths. Nevertheless, communal violence on Lombok was minor in scale compared to conflicts in the Moluccas and Kalimantan and generally consisted of vigilante actions and intra-village fighting.

Riots broke out on Lombok in 2000, leaving dozens dead and causing widespread damage. The violence began in Mataram after religious rallies protesting sectarian conflict in the Moluccas, where inflammatory rhetoric and media coverage fueled attacks on churches and Chinese-owned businesses. The unrest spread to nearby Ampenan, where clashes between rioters and security forces resulted in gunshot injuries and prolonged nighttime fighting. Local residents and observers largely blamed outside agitators for provoking the violence, noting that Lombok had been relatively peaceful prior to the riots.

Since 2006, a new form of communal conflict has emerged, involving attacks by members of Lombok’s Sunni Muslim majority against the Ahmadi community. These incidents have included mass demonstrations, the burning of mosques, and the destruction of homes. Ahmadis, who do not accept Muhammad as the final prophet and recognize Mirza Ghulam Ahmad of nineteenth-century India as a mujaddid (divinely inspired reformer), have faced sustained persecution. Many continue to live in a refugee camp in Mataram.

In July 2018, Lombok was struck by 6.4-magnitude earthquake that killed 17 people and stranded nearly 700 hikers on Mount Rinjani volcano. Rescuers were called in after the earthquake caused landslides that cut off key trails off the peak.

Sasak

Sasak chiefs of Lombok who allied with the Dutch to resist Karangasem occupation.

The Sasak are the dominant group living on Lombok. They were Hindus before they converted to Islam beginning in the 16th century. Feuding between Sasak princedoms allowed the Balinese to dominate the island and reduce the Sasak to vassals and servants until the Dutch drove the Balinese out in 1894 and the Balinese ruling family committed ritual suicide. The Sasak language is similar to Balinese and Javanese. [Source: Encyclopedia of World Cultures, East and Southeast Asia edited by Paul Hockings (G.K. Hall & Company, 1993) ~]

The Sasak are divided into two groups: 1) the Wetu Telu, the more traditionalist Sasak, and the 2) Waktu Lima, the more conservatively Islamic and market-oriented Sasak. There has traditionally been some friction between the two groups over their beliefs and power. The Waktu Lima held higher positions under the Dutch and some have accused the Wetu Tela of being infidels. ~

The Wetu Tela regard themselves as Muslims but have many radical beliefs. They do not build mosques, pray five times, go on pilgrimages to Mecca and have no objection to eating pork. In the Sasak language Wetu means “result” and telu means “three.” The number “three” looms large in their belief system. They fast for only three days during Ramadan and recognize the trilogy of the sun, moon and stars and the head, body and limbs The Wetu Tela have been declining in numbers and now mostly persist in remote areas. Their number are believed to be less than 30,000. ~

Tourism in Lombok

As Bali has become overrun, may tourists have made their way to Lombok to escape. In 1994, Bali had 1 million visitors compared 200,000 in Lombok. In 2017 Bali welcomed 5.7 million tourists, compared to around 3 million in Lombok. In October 2011, the new Lombok International Airport opened in the south of Lombok, 40 kilometers. south-east of Mataram, replacing the former Selaparang airport at Ampenan. The new airport has runways capable of handling 747s.

Lombok is also known for its magnificent South Sea cultured pearls grown in pristine waters around the island. Lombok’s woven cloths are second to none as are its pottery. Visit the village of Banyumulek where some of the best pottery is produced, and the village of Sukarare for kain ikat or hand-woven textiles. For seafood lovers, enjoy succulent grilled fish and crabs freshly caught from the sea

topographical map of Lombok

Eric Weiner wrote in the New York Times: Lombok is “ where the roads are rough and the tourists few. This enchanted Indonesian island is, after all, a place that seems to be perpetually arriving, yet has never quite arrived. Proximity to Bali is Lombok's blessing, and its curse. Many residents bristle at the idea of basking in Bali's reflected glory and point out that while only 25 miles separate the two islands, they are in fact worlds apart...Culturally, Lombok is typically more Indonesian than Bali... Unlike mostly Hindu Bali, Lombok is 86 percent Muslim. It's an island of Sukarno hats, mosques (many built with Saudi funds) and hardscrabble farmers. Indeed, overzealous tourism officials notwithstanding, Lombok is not "an unspoiled Bali," or "Bali's sister island." Lombok is not Bali at all, and that is precisely its charm.” [Source: Eric Weiner, New York Times, September 24, 2008]

“To be honest, though, Lombok's undeniable appeal remains something of a mystery. Yes, the beaches are lovely, but there are lovely beaches elsewhere. Yes, Mount Rinjani is spectacular, but other volcanoes are more spectacular. Maybe it's that Lombok, unlike Bali, retains an endearing frumpiness. Lombok may be paradise but it is an ordinary paradise, if such a thing is possible. Indeed, even those banking on Lombok's rise hope it doesn't happen too quickly or recklessly. "In 30 years, you won't like Lombok," said Scott Coffey, an American hotelier who owns Qunci Villas. Perhaps, but for now Lombok seems just right.

Dubai, Qatar, the Indonesian government and various developers have spent a ton of money erecting luxury hotels, golf courses and a marina along Lombok's beautiful, and largely untouched, southern coast. Although rioting in 2000 and the earthquake in 2018 caused some damage to the tourist industry, the island quickly bounced back. For more detailed information please check the following:; Website: visitlomboksumbawa.net

Festivals in Lombok

The Bau Nyale festival, unique to Lombok, takes place in February when the segments of a sea worm (nyale) resembling sperm and ovum appear on the beaches. The Bau Nyale festival occurs on the 20th day of the 10th month on the traditional Sasak Calendar. Bau in the Lombok language means “to-catch” and Nyale is the name of the type of sea worm that surfaces only around this time of the year. Large crowds catch the Nyale along a number of Lombok’s beaches.

According to legend, the worms are the transformed hair of a beautiful princess named Putri Nyale or Putri Mandalika. Beset by too many suitors, she threw herself into the sea. Separate groups of young men and women gather on the beach to collect the worms, which are eaten raw with grated coconut, grilled, or partially fermented in bamboo tubes. This is a rare opportunity for young people of both sexes to socialize unsupervised: flirtation takes the form of poetic songs and subtle wordplay. If a girl accepts a gift from a boy during the festival, she is obligated to marry him. [Source: A. J. Abalahin, “Worldmark Encyclopedia of Cultures and Daily Life,” Cengage Learning, 2009]

The Sasak also observe the main Muslim hoilidays. Other religious festivals take place at the beginning of the rainy season (October to December) or at harvest time (April to May) with celebrations in villages all over the island. Once during the Wetu Telu ritual cycle of eight years, the Alip Festival is held to honor the supreme being. Among Sasak Muslims in general, Maulid, the birth of Muhammad, is a major celebration.

Sights in Lombok

Attractions on Lombok include hiking up the volcano Mt Rinjani and climbing down to its crater lake; hitting the beaches at the resorts in Senggigi; surfing on south coast; and visiting the backpacker and snorkeling havens on the three Gilis — Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air — secluded tropical islands a short 20 minutes boat ride from Senggigi.

Soak up some sun and surf with a visit to the gorgeous Batu Bolong Beach. The beach takes its name from an enormous rock with a hole in it. Make sure you stay for sunset to see a stunning view as the sun lowers behind Mount Agung on Bali with incredible flaming colors. Explore the near deserted coves on the beaches north of Senggigi where your only company will be the odd fisherman.

Learn about the local history and visit the Maruya Water Palace in Mataram, capital city of Lombok. The palace was built in 1744 and was the site of bloody battles between the Dutch and Balinese in the late 19th century. Appreciate the serenity at the largest temple in Lombok, Pura Meru, located opposite the water palace. This centuries old temple is dedicated to the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Visit the unique Pura Lingsar, a temple compound that combines the Bali Hindu and Wektu Telu religions in one complex.

Stroll around and shop in the charming market town of Surandi. There are some scenic picnic spots to stop and take a break. Or you can cool down with a swim in the river. The water here is considered sacred as it comes straight from Gunung Rinjani. Absorb local Sasak culture with a visit to Batu Kumbung village, northeast of Mataram. At this traditional village you’ll find women weaving fabrics as their ancestors did centuries ago. This village is famous for its music. Try your hand at learning a local dance or musical instrument.

Test your luck and take in the sights of horse racing or pacuan kuda at the Salakalas field. Races are held every Sunday. Watch the young jockeys in tough competition battle it out till the finish line where the winner will give a triumphant smile. The race is taken seriously and the night before competition villagers massage their horse, sometimes playing traditional gamelan music to relax them.

Shopping on Lombok

Lombok is famous for it’s pearls, woven baskets, pottery and hand crafted textiles like songkets and ikats. Pick up some local handicrafts at the many stores on Jl Raya Sengiggi in Matram. See weavers in action at Rinjani Handwoven or spoil yourself and buy some beautiful crafted furniture at Galeria Nao.

For pottery, visit Banyumulek village, a pottery center close to Mataram. Here you will see finely decorated pots as well as traditional urns and water flasks. Penujak (Central Lombok) and Masbagik (East Lombok) are also famous for making pottery. Lombok pottery has gained popularity and is shipped throughout the world.

Buy some beautiful locally produced textiles and watch the weavers at work. These unique textiles can be used as anything from sarongs, wall hangings and tablecloths. Each design is special to each weaver and passed down through generations. There is a traditional hand weaving village in Puyung (Central Lombok).

One of the most popular areas to shop for all sorts of antiques is on Jl Yos Sudarso where you’ll see everything from traditional bamboo containers to bone jewels and wooden statues. Bertais Market is the biggest daily market in Lombok with everything from fresh fruit and vegetables to herbs and spices and local artifacts on sale.

For those who love jewelry Lombok is famous for producing some of the world’s finest pearls. The annual Lombok-Sumbawa Pearl Festival is the perfect time to visit and pick up some beautiful pearls. Gem Pearls, Jl. Raya Meninting 69, Senggigi, Lombok, E mail: dewi_gempearls@yahoo.com, Tel. 0370 647300

Accommodation and Restaurants in Lombok

There are a range of accommodation options on Lombok ranging from budget hotels to luxury resorts. The majority of hotels are located in Senggigi. There are lots of cheap guest houses in the Gilis. Peak season is June — August so if you plan to travel then, make sure you book ahead.

Some of the most popular spots to eat out are located in Senggigi. Here you can get everything from authentic Indonesian street food to conventional Western dishes. If you’re not afraid of fiery hot chili, try some of the special Lombok dishes. Ayam Taliwang is a spicy dish of fried or grilled chicken with a hot chili sauce and side dishes of vegetables. Sasak cuisine like freshwater gourami fish and sate are also popular.

Eric Weiner wrote in the New York Times: “Lombok means "chili," and the cuisine definitely had a kick. I opted for the more humane sarobi, a dish of rice flour, palm sugar, coconut milk, chili and tapioca — all rolled into a banana leaf. It's delicious and sets me back 1,000 rupiah, or 10 cents, at 9,577 rupiahs to the dollar.” [Source: Eric Weiner, New York Times, September 24, 2008]

Here are some of the restaurant you can try, while you're in Lombok: 1) Warung Menega grilled seafood, Jalan Raya Senggigi 6, West Lombok, Website: menega.com; 2) Warung Anda, Pantai Kuta, Jalan Pariwisata, Central Lombok,, Tel. 0370 655049

Getting Around and To Lombok

Public transport on the island comes in the form of buses and bemos (small minibus). The main bus terminal is Mandalika at Bertais. Hiring a car or motorcycle is a convenient way to explore the island. It is easiest to do this in Senggigi. Hotels and travel agencies offer the most competitive rates for car and motorcycle hire. If you have rented a motorcycle in Bali you can bring this with you on the ferry to Lombok.

For a local experience, take a leisurely ride in a cidomo or horse cart. This traditional mode of transport may not be the quickest way to get around but it’s certainly a great way to soak up the scenery. The Bluebird Group operate taxi’s on Lombok. Lombok Taksi & Golden Bird, Jl. Koperasi No. 102 Ampenan, Lombok Barat NTB., Tel. +62 (370) 627000, 645000, fax: +62 (370) 623972 E-mail : lomboktaksi@mataram.wasantara.net.id

In October 2011, Lombok moved its airport from the Selaparang Airport to the larger and better facilitated Lombok International Airport at Tanak Awu, in the Central Lombok District, some 30 kilometers or an hour’s drive south east of Mataram. The Airport is served domestically by Garuda Indonesia, Merpati, Lion Air, Batavia Air, Wings Air, and Trigana. Garuda Indonesia, Merpati, Lion Air and Batavia. Lion Air and Batavia Air make a transit stop in Surabaya. Internationally, Silk Air serves the Singapore to Lombok route.

From the airport passengers can get to Mataram by public bus. The special buses serving the route have a capacity of 40 passengers and its visual designs are also aimed to promote tourism in Lombok and West Nusa Tenggara. The fare from/to Mataram’s Mandalika Bus Terminal in Mataram is around IDR 15,000 to 20,000 and from/to Senggigi around IDR 20,000 to 25,000. Taxis will also be available to take passengers around the fabled island of Lombok.

By Boat: The port of Lembar is situated 22 kilometers south of Mataram. There are ferries every 90 minutes or so, 24 hours a day, between Lombok and Padang Bai on Bali, the trip taking between 4-5 hours. Any volunteer "porters" who carry your bags will expect at least IDR 10,000. A hotel pick-up should always be arranged well in advance and preferably confirmed by email. An alternative is to negotiate a trip with a private car operator upon arrival. You can take a bemo from Lembar Harbour to Mataram during daylight hours. The fare should be about IDR 5,000-8,000 to the Ampenan-Mataram-Cakranegara-Sweta area, but you may pay more if you have a lot of luggage. The high-speed boat from Bali to Lombok takes about two hours. Gili Cat (62-361-271-680) and Mahi Mahi (62-361-753-241) are two well-known ferry companies. They charge $65 a person each way.

Image Sources: Wikimedia Commons

Text Sources: Indonesia Tourism website ( ndonesia.travel ), Indonesia government websites, UNESCO, Wikipedia, Lonely Planet guides, New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, National Geographic, The New Yorker, Bloomberg, Reuters, Associated Press, AFP, Japan News, Yomiuri Shimbun, Compton's Encyclopedia and various books and other publications.

Last Updated December 2025