NORTHEAST THAILAND NEAR LAOS: UBON RATCHATHANI, UDON THANI AND THE WORLD'S FIRST BRONZE

UBON RATCHATHANI

UBON RATCHATHANI (629 kilometers from Bangkok) is one of the largest provinces in Thailand. Bordering both Laos and Cambodia, it has been dubbed the “The Emerald Triangle” because of it forests. The Mun River joins the Mekong, which forms the province’s eastern border, At the confluence of the two rivers there is some beautiful scenery, including the cliff of Pha Taem, known for its ancient rock paintings. Sandstone cliffs along the Mekong River serve as a natural border between Thailand and Laos. Ubon Ratchathani province features plateaus and mountain ranges with the Mun River running through the middle. Phu Chong Nayoi and Pha Taem National Parks are two of Isan’s most unspoiled and unvisited natural preserves.

Ubon Ratchathani is home to one of the world’s oldest agrarian communities and is regarded as the ’cradle of northeastern civilisation’. Recently discovered archaeological evidence suggests that humans settled in the region between 14,000 to 6,000 years ago. Ubon Ratchathani city is the the northeast Thailand's largest city. Located on the banks of the Mun River, its history dates back around two centuries, officially in 1780 when King Taksin the Great appointed the region’s first ruler and awarded the city its name. During the Vietnam War a U.S. military base was located here. The city is a wonderful place to witness the annual candle festival, a charming Buddhist celebration. Otherwise there is not too much here than some wats and reasonably good museum with some very old artifacts as well as stuff from the Dvaravati and Khmer periods.

Tourist Office and Website: Tourism Authority of Thailand , Ubon Ratchathani Office, 264/1 Khuenthani Road, Amphoe Mueang, Ubon Ratchathani 34000, Tel. +66 4524 3770, Fax. +66 4524 3771, E-mail Address: tatubon@tat.or.th, Accommodation: As a fairly large city and province, Ubon Ratchathani has a wide range of accommodation options to suit all variety of visitors on nearly any budget. Website: tourismthailand.org/ubonratchathani

Getting to Ubon Ratchathani

Ubon Ratchathani is a major provincial capital and transportation hub for Southwestern Isan and thus can easily be reached via private car, bus, train, or plane. By Train: Regular trains depart from Bangkok’s Hua Lumphong Railway Station to Ubon Ratchathani every day. Call 1690, 0 2223 7010-20 for more information. By Bus: Buses depart from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit 2) to Ubon Ratchathani every day. Contact Transport Co. Ltd at Tel: 0 2936 2852-66 for more information. By Air: Both AirAsia and Thai Airways have daily flights connecting Bangkok to Ubon Ratchathani. For more information, contact Thai Airways at tel. 0-2280-0060, 0-2628-2000 / www.thaiairways.com, or ThaiAir Asia at 02 515 9999 / www.airasia.com.

By Car: 1) From Bangkok, take Highway No. 1 (Phahonyothin Road) to Saraburi and then Highway No. 2 (Mittraphap Road) to Nakhon Ratchasima; finally, take Highway No.226 to Ubon Ratchathani via Buri Ram, Surin, and Si Sa Ket, a total distance of 629 kilometers. 2) From Bangkok, take Highway No. 1 (Phahonyothin Road) to Saraburi and then Highway No. 2 (Mittraphap Road) to Sikhio, turning onto Highway No. 24 and proceeding to Ubon Ratchathani via Chok Chai, Nang Rong, Prasat, Det Udom, and Warin Chamrap.

Pha Taem National Park (25 kilometers from Khong Chiam) is famous for its ancient rock paintings and covers an area of 140 square kilometers, where plateaus and hills dominate the parks landscape. There are sheer cliffs, which resulted from earthquakes. Most trees are deciduous dipterocarp forest. Irregular shaped sandstone rock formations are found scattered throughout the area. Beautiful flowering plants grow among the rocky ground. Getting There: From Khong Chiam District take Highway No. 2134, followed by Highway No. 2112, and turn right after another 5 kilometers.

Pha Taem and Pha Kham are located near the national park headquarters. On the cliffs surface are numerous prehistoric cave paintings dating back 3,000-4,000 years ago that offer insight into the way of life that existed during the pre-historic days and reflect the ancient lifestyle of the people who once lived in the area. These painting depict scenes of fishing, rice farming, figures of people, animals, hands and geometric designs. It should be noted that the most extensive site for cave paintings in the country is that of Pha Taem. Location and Contact: Pha Taem National Park Pha Taem National Park, Tambon huai Phai, Amphoe Khong Chiam, Ubon Ratchathani, Tel. 0 4531 8026, 0 4524 6332 - 3. Hours Open: Open everyday from 6.00am - 6:00pm. Admission: Admission Fee: Adult 200 Baht Child 100 Baht. Getting There: Pha Taem National Park is 18 kilometers from Khong Chiam. From Amphoe Khong Chiam, motorists can use Highway 2134, then 2112. Turn right at km. 8 and continue for another 5 kilometers s. to Pha Taem. Website: Official Thailand National Park website, Use Google translate /park.dnp.go.th

KHON KAEN

KHON KAEN (160 kilometers north of Nakhon Ratchasima) lies in the heart of the Northeast and is known for its Isan food and hand-woven silk. Sometimes used as a stopover to other destinations, it is a fairly large town with a choice of restaurants and hotels. The museum houses artifacts and other items collected in Northeast. The most important objects are Dvaravati boundary stones which depict the Jakata (previous lives) of the Buddha and the story and the life of Buddha. Kalasin, east of Khon Kaen, is known for Wat Klang, with a fine black Buddha image, and a dinosaur museum containing fossils found in the region.

Khon Kaen is the commercial and political center of Northeastern Thailand and one of the fastest growing areas in Thailand. The Thai government nominated Khon Kaen as the export center for trade throughout the Indo-China Region and both Laos and Vietnam have consulates in Khon Kaen. Khon Kaen also contains the largest university in the northeast, Khon Kaen University, founded in 1964. Khon Kaen is the capital of Khon Kaen Province in east-central Thailand and is located on a railroad, A university opened here in 1964. Khon Kaen's population is estimated at around 120,000.

Historically, Khon Kaen is quite a new town, established a little over two centuries ago during the reign of King Rama I. But prehistorically, this town on the plateau has been home to various cultures as well as dinosaurs. Amphoe Chonnabot is where excellent Mudmee silk is delicately woven by hand using a special tie-dye technique. Ban Khwao (30 kilometers west of Khon Kaen) in Northeast Thailand is the main silk producing region of Thailand. Women strip leaves from the mulberry trees to feed the silk worms by hand.

Tourist Office and Website: Tourism Authority of Thailand, Khon Kaen Office, 15/5 Prachasamosorn Road ,Tambon Nai Mueang, Amphoe Mueang, Khon Kaen 40000, Tel. +66 4324 4498-9, Fax. +66 4324 4497, E-mail Address: tatkhkn@tat.or.th. Accommodation: As a popular tourist destination, Khon Kaen has a large variety of accommodation options including quality hotels and resorts as well as lodging in the national parks and with local villagers at various home stays. Website: tourismthailand.org ;

Pratat Kaennakorn is in an area where many ancient temples are located. The chedi was built in the Indochina artistic style with influences of Esan and Tavaravadi and is called ‘the Great Net’ style. It is in a pointy-triangular shape and consists of nine stories with relics of the Lord Buddha and the Buddhist saints. Visitors can admire the view of the town and the pond from the top of the chedi. Pratat Kaamkaen is the most respected and most stunning Laos-Lanchang-style chedi in Thailand. Legend has it that Praya Langkeao was on his way to place the Lord Buddha’s relic in Pratat Panom when he made a stop to rest at Don Makam.

Getting to Khon Kaen

Khon Kaen is a political center in Northeastern Thailand and can be reached via private car, public bus, train, or airplane. By Air: Thai Airways International operates daily flights on the Bangkok-Khon Kaen route. For more information, call Tel.1566, 0 2280 0060, 0 2628 2000 or Khon Kaen office at Tel. 0 4322 7701 to 5 or visit the website www.thaiairways.com. Thai Air Asia also operates flights on this route. Call for more information at Tel. 0 2515 9999 or visit the website www.airasia.com.

By Train: Trains from Bangkok’s Hua Lumphong Railway Station bound for Udon Thani and Nong Khai travel via Khon Kaen. Leaving Bangkok daily, there are various kinds of trains available such as rapid, express, and air-conditioned diesel locomotive. For more information, call Tel. 1690, 0 2220-4334, 0 2220 4444. Khon Kaen Railway Station can be contacted at Tel.0 4322 1112 or www.railway.co.th.

By Car: Khon Kaen province is 449 kilometers from Bangkok. Motorists should take Highway No.1 (Phahonyothin Rd.) north and turn right onto Highway No.2 (Mittraphap Rd.) at kilometer 107 in Saraburi province. Finally, follow Highway No.2 through Nakhon Ratchasima to Khon Kaen. As Khon Kaen is a transportation hub of the Northeast region, motorists can also travel via the Saraburi-Lam Narai Road then turn right, through Mueang Khom-Dan Khun Thot-Chaiyaphum, to Khon Kaen. Or from Saraburi, motorists can travel via Lam Narai-Thepsathit-Chaiyaphum-Mancha Khiri-Phra Yuen to Khon Kaen.

By Bus: A journey by bus from Bangkok to Khon Kaen takes 7 hours. Several ordinary buses, air-conditioned coaches, and 24-seat VIP coaches leave Bangkok’s Northeastern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit 2) daily. For more information, call Tel. 0 2936 2852 to 66. Bus schedules from Khon Kaen can be checked at the Khon Kaen Bus Terminal (Tel.0 4323 7472, 0 4323 7300) and the Air-conditioned Bus Terminal (Tel.0 4323 9910) available for private charter as well.

Phu Wiang National Park

Phu Wiang National Park (70 kilometers from Khon Kaen) is site of Thailand’s most important dinosaur discoveries. The first fossils—discovered in 1976 by a uranium survey team on the hill Pratu Ti Ma—were a long neck and tail of a 15-meter-long dinosaur. The plant-eating dinosaur was named Phuwiangosaurus Sirindhornae to honour H.R.H Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. At this site, the teeth of a meat-eating Tyranosaur have also been found. It was named Siamosaurus Suteethorni after the discoverer, Mr. Warawuth Suteethorn. Visitors to the park can visit all three of the main fossil sites. The fossils themselves are now displayed in the museum of the Department of Mineral Resources. The oldest, the fossils of Siamotyrannus Isanensis, are 120 to 130 million years old. This indicates that tyrannosaurus originated in Asia. At Site No. 8 are 68 footprints of dinosaurs, dating back 140 million years ago. Most of them belong to the world's smallest species of meat-eating dinosaur, which walked on two legs. Among such footprints, there is one bigger footprint, assumed to belong to Carnosaurus. These sites are 19 kilometers from the headquarters. It takes an hour to get there by car and a four-wheel drive vehicle is recommended. In many sites, geologists found fossils of dinosaur babies, small crocodiles and mussels dating back to 150 million years ago.

Besides fossils of dinosaurs, there are also traces of ancient civilizations in this area including a high relief of the reclining Buddha on the cliff, at the crest of Phu Wiang Mountain. The Buddha image was carved in the 9th century, mirroring an influence from Indian art. Nearby is Tham Famue Daeng, Dang, or Red Palm Cave, at Ban Hin Rong. The cave wall houses prehistoric paintings of cavemen's hands from sprays of red ochre.

Natural attractions in the park include waterfalls and field of wild flowers. Namtok Thap phaya Suea is a small waterfall near to Tham Famue Daeang. Namtok Tat Fa is a 15-meter high waterfall that can be accessed by car. The waterfall is 18 kilometers from Amphoe Phu Wiang. Some 5 kilometers from Namtok Tat Fa is Namtok Tat Klang which is a 8-meter high waterfall. Savanna and rock plateaus are blanketed with wild flowers in full bloom at the end of the rainy season. Phu Wiang National Park covers a total area of 380 square kilometers.

Location and Contact: P.O.Box 1, Nai Muang Sub-district, Amphur Phu Wiang Khorn Kaen Thailand, Tel. 0 4324 9052. The headquarters features an exhibition about the dinosaurs and fossils found in the area. For group tourists requiring a guide, contact the headquarters in advance at Tel. 0 4324 9052. Hours Open: Open everyday from 6.00am - 6:00pm. Getting There: From downtown Khon Kaen, visitors can get there via Highway 12 and connect to Highway 2038, bound for Amphoe Phu Wiang. From Amphoe Phu Wiang, take the Phu Wiang-Ban Muaeng Mai Road, passing the national park unit, Pak Chong Phu Wiang at kilometer 23. Turn left at kilometer 30 at Ban Pho Reservoir and the national parks headquarters is 8 kilometers away. Website: Official Thailand National Park website, Use Google translate /park.dnp.go.th

Phu Pha Man National Park

Phu Pha Man National Park (accessible from Amphoe Phu Wiang, 125 kilometers from Khon Kaen) features a towering limestone cliffs and interesting caves. Covering a total area of 218,750 rai, the park contains a number of attractions, including the cave in Phu Pha Man Mountain, About 2.5 kilometers from Amphoe Phu Pha Man, the caves is occupied by millions of bats, whose accumulated droppings cause a strong smell. Every evening, around 6 pm., these bats leave the cave in line over ten kilometers long. It takes 30 to 45 minutes for all bat to emerge. Near to Tham Klangkhao is an impressive cave with beautiful stalagmites, stalactites, and big stone pillars but is diffiuclt to enter. In Ban Wang Sawap, 17 kilometers from downtown Amphoe Phu Pha Man, is a cave with a spacious chamber, covering over a one rai in area. The flat floor and five- to seven-meter-high ceiling and good ventilation makes it a good cave for visitors to enjoy.

There are also some impressive waterfalls. Namtok Tat Yai is the highest waterfall in the park. It is 70 meters tall and originates from Phong River that runs from Phu Kradueng. A folk tale says the waterfall can sing. As water falls on thin stone, the story goes, it is diverted into different rock holes, producing strange sounds.

Location and Contact: Tambol Nanhongtum, Amphur Chum Phae Khorn Kaen Thailand, Tel. 0 2562 0760. Hours Open: Open everyday from 6.00am to 6:00pm. Accommodation and Food: The national park no accommodation and facility for tourists. Visitors should prepare everything by themselves. For more information, please contact the Department of National Park, Wildlife and Plant Conservation Department at Tel. 0 2562 0760. www.dnp.go.th . Website: Official Thailand National Park website, Use Google translate /park.dnp.go.th

UDON THANI

UDON THANI (50 kilometers south of Laos, 564 kilometers northeast of Bangkok) is the home of an ancient civilization that forced archeologist and historians to rethink their theories about the development of civilization in Asia and the world. The Ban Chiang site, located in this area, features burial grounds that have produced beautiful painted pottery, and bronze object dated, using several methods, to 4000 B.C., almost 1,500 years before bronze was developed anywhere else in the world. Some of these objects are in the fine Udon Thani bronze age museum along with skeleton, tools and pottery.

Modern Udon Thani itself is a busy transportation hub. The city expanded greatly in the Vietnam War era when U.S. used air bases there. From 1965 to 1976, the Royal Thai Air Force Base in Udon housed a large contingent of U.S. Air Force personnel. The base was heavily used in the Vietnam War. Planes that ran bombing missions over Laos, Cambodia and Hanoi sometimes took off from here. Some GIs still live in the area. Outside of town a $200 million Voice of American transmitter was built in the 1990s. There isn’t a lot interest to the tourists. Udon Thani is a major transportation hub for Northeastern Thailand. Geographically, the province is located on a plateau which is approximately 187 meters above sea level. Most of the area is covered with rice fields, forests, and hills; the Phu Pan mountain range and the Songkhram River are the provinces two primary natural attractions. The inhabitants of Udon Thani are mainly engaged in agricultural activities, and the capital city is a major agricultural market center for its neighboring provinces. Udon Thani is also known for its forest temples, Khit-style textiles and as a gateway to Laos.

Tourist Office and Website: Tourism Authority of Thailand , Udon Thani Office, 16/5 Mu kilometers ontri Road , Tambon Makkheng, Amphoe Mueang, Udon Thani 41000, Tel. +66 4232 5406-7, Fax. +66 4232 5408, E-mail Address: tatudon@tat.or.th, Accommodation: Although not a major center for tourism, there are variety of accommodation options for visitors to choose from because Udon Thani is a major regional hub for transport and commerce. Website: tourismthailand.org/udonthani;

Poo Pra Bat Historical National Park (70 kilometers from Udon Thani) features some interesting rock formations and caves with perhistoric paintings of animals, humans and mysterious symbols. Covering an area of of 5.488 square kilometers and is situated on Poo Pan Mountain, it is believed that Poo Pra Bat was a sacred place to perhistoric people, who regarded it as the entrance to the underworld. The most outstanding tourist attraction here is Nang Usa tower—a sandstone rock pillar—which it appears in many local myths. This tower occurs as a result from natural erosion. The upper part contains a chamber assumed to be used for religious ceremonies. There are also boundary markers around this tower that are still in good condition. Getting There: The park is situated in the Poo Pan foothills. Visitors can travel from Udonthani by taking Highway 2 (Udonthani-Nongkai) then turn on to highway 2021 at milestone 13. Then follow the road to Amphur Baan Pue for around 42 kilometers and turn right and go straight down highway 2348 for around 12 kilometers.

Getting to Udon Thani

As a major transportation center, Udon Thani can be reached a number of ways directly from cities around northeastern and central Thailand, including via private car, bus, train, or airplane. By Air: Daily flights between Bangkok and Udon Thani are offered by the Thai Airways, Thai AirAsia, and Nok Air. For detailed information, contact www.thaiairways.com, www.airasia.com, or www.nokair.com. By Train: Train service between Bangkok and Udon Thani is available every day. For more details, contact the Travel Service Unit, State Railway of Thailand (SRT), Tel. 1690; 0 2220 4334; and 0 2220 4444, or visit www.railway.co.th.

By Car: From Bangkok, travel along Highway No. 1 (Phahonyothin Road), switching to Highway No. 2 (Mittraphap Road) at kilometers 107 in Saraburi, and then drive through Nakhon Ratchasima and Khon Kaen to Udon Thani. The total distance is around 564 km. By Bus: There are ordinary and air-conditioned buses servicing the route between Bangkok and Udon Thani every day. The buses leave from Bangkok’s Northeastern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit 2) on Kamphaengphet Road. For further information, contact the Transport Company Limited, Tel. 0 2936 2852-66, the Udon Thani Provincial Bus Terminal, Tel. 0 4222 1489, or visit www.transport.co.th

Getting Around in Udon Thani is both easy and inexpensive; visitors can opt for public buses, songtaews (pickup trucks with benches in the back), motorbike taxis, or samlors (three wheeled pedal powered cabs). Songtaews are the most common form of transportation in Udon Thani and follow different routes, designated by their number and color. There are no fixed “bus stops” per se; passengers simply hail them as they pass. Be sure to tell them where you are headed so as to get on the right songtaew. Fares should be fixed at around 6 baht for trips within and along the city ring-road and 10 baht for longer journeys. The price goes up to 15 baht after 7.00pm and songtaews are generally off duty by 8pm. Motorized samlors (a type of tuk tuk) charge a negotiated fare based on the distance, while pedal powered samlors cost less and are more pleasurable, if slower modes of transport; always agree on a price before boarding. Samlors are the only way to get around after dark, as buses and songtaews stop shortly after sunset. There are two city buses: white and yellow. Trips around town cost between 5 and 15 baht depending on distance.

Ban Chiang and the World’s First Bronze

Ban Chiang (50 kilometers east of Udon Thani) contains the excavations of the world’s oldest Bronze Age culture. The small but excellent Ban Chiang National Museum embraces part of the original Ban Chiang excavation and displays prehistoric artifacts found in the area, including a lot of painted pottery, beads, bronze artifacts, and 3,000-year-old human skeletons. Bronze artifacts have been discovered in northern Thailand, around the village of Ban Chiang, that were dated to 3600 to 4000 B.C., more than a thousand years before the Bronze Age was thought to have begun in the Middle East. The discovery of these tools resulted in a major revision of theories regarding the development of civilization in Asia.

The first discoveries of early Bronze Age culture in Southeast Asia were made by Dr. G. Solheim II, a professor of anthropology at the University of Hawaii. In the early 1970s, he found a socketed bronze ax, dated to 2,800 B.C., at a site in northern Thailand called Non Nok Tha. The ax was about 500 years older than the oldest non-Southeast-Asia bronze implements discovered in present-day Turkey and Iran, where it is believed the Bronze Age began. [Source: Wilhelm G. Solheim II, Ph.D., National Geographic, March 1971]

Non Nok Tha also yielded a copper tool dating back to 3,500 B.C.. and some double molds used in the casting of bronze, dating back to 2300 B.C, significantly older than similar samples found in India and China where it is believed bronze metal working began. Before Solheim it was thought that the knowledge of bronze working was introduced to Southeast Asia from China during the Chou dynasty (1122-771 B.C.). Solheim is sometimes called "Mr. Southeast Asia."

Ban Chiang site is located on he Khorat Plateau in northeastern Thailand. Among the discoveries made at a 124-acre mound site there were bracelets and bronze pellets (used for hunting with splits-string bows), and lovely painted ceramics dated to 3500 B.C. Most of the bronze made Ban Chiang is ten percent tin and 90 percent copper. This it turns out is ideal proportion. Any less tin, the metal fails to reach maximum hardness. Any more, the metal becomes too brittle and there is more of a chance it will break during forging. The Ban Chiang culture also developed bronze jewelry with a silvery sheen by adding 25 percent tin to the surface layers of the bronze at a heat of 1000°F and plunging it quickly into water. See ANCIENT HISTORY OF THAILAND, ORIGIN OF THE THAIS AND THE THAI NAME AND WORLD'S FIRST BRONZE AGE CULTURE factsanddetails.com

Ban Chiang Archaeological Site: UNESCO World Heritage Site

Ban Chiang Archaeological Site was designated a a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1992. According to UNESCO: Ban Chiang is considered the most important prehistoric settlement so far discovered in South-East Asia. It marks an important stage in human cultural, social and technological evolution. The site presents the earliest evidence of farming in the region and of the manufacture and use of metals. [Source: UNESCO]

“Ban Chiang was the centre of a remarkable phenomenon of human cultural, social, and technological evolution in the 5th millennium BC, which occurred independently in this area of south-east Asia and spread widely over the whole region. It is without question the most important prehistoric settlement so far discovered in south-east Asia. It presents the earliest evidence for true farming in the region and for the manufacture and use of metals: its long cultural sequence, size and economic status has no parallel in any other contemporary site in the region.

“Recent archaeological work at Nok Nok Tha and, later, Ban Chiang on the Khorat plateau of north-east Thailand has demonstrated that in south-east Asia prehistory was culturally backward. This area of modern Thailand has been shown by excavation and field survey to have been the centre of a cultural development in the 4th millennium BC that was an independent from China to the north and India to the west over much of south-east Asia and beyond into the Indonesian archipelago.

“Settlement of the Khorat plateau began around 3600 BC. The settlers came from the neighbouring lowlands, bringing with them a hunter-gatherer economy that was beginning to develop sedentary farming, with domesticated cattle, pigs, and chickens and an elementary form of dry-rice cultivation. The settled village life of this Early Period at Ban Chiang lasted until around 1000 BC. Agricultural methods were refined and improved, along with other skills such as house construction and pottery manufacture. The equipment of burials reflects an increasing social complexity.

“The Middle Period (1000-500/300 BC) was notable for the introduction of wet-rice farming, as evidenced by the presence of water buffalo bones, and technological developments in ceramic and metal production. It was a time of considerable prosperity, as shown by the grave-goods, and one which saw the introduction of iron into common use. Although occupation appears to have ended at Ban Chiang in the 3rd century AD, while continuing at other sites in the region, Ban Chiang is considered to have been the principal settlement in this area of the Khorat plateau and has given its name to a distinctive archaeological culture. The prehistoric settlement, a low oval mound established by Laotian refugees in the late 8th century, lies beneath the modern village of Ban Chiang. Only very limited excavation has been possible in the settlement site, but this has established the existence of deep stratification and long cultural continuity.

“The main excavations have taken place on the perimeter of the modern village, where a large number of burials from all three periods, with rich ceramic and metal grave-goods, have been revealed and recorded. One of the excavations has been preserved for public viewing, with a permanent cover building: there is an excellent site museum in another part of the village.”

History of Ban Chiang Archaeological Site

According to UNESCO: Until the 1960s. south-east Asia was considered to have been a culturally backward area in prehistory. The generally accepted view was that its cultural development resulted from external influences, principally from China to the north and India to the west. Recent archaeological work at Nok Nok Tha and, later, Ban Chiang on the Khorat plateau of north-east Thailand has demonstrated this view to be incorrect: this area of modem Thailand has been shown by excavation and field survey to have been the centre of an independent, and vigorous, cultural development in the 4th millennium BC which shaped contemporary social and cultural evolution over much of southeast Asia and beyond. into the Indonesian archipelago. [Source: UNESCO]

“Settlement of the Khorat plateau began around 3600 BC. The settlers came from the neighbouring lowlands, bringing with them a hunter-gatherer economy that was beginning to develop sedentary farming, with domesticated cattle, pigs, and chickens and an elementary form of dry-rice cultivation. The settled village life of this Early Period at Ban Chiang lasted until c. 1000 BC. Agricultural methods were refined and improved, along with other skills such as house construction and pottery manufacture. The equipment of burials reflects an increasing social complexity. Of especial importance was the growing use of bronze, for weapons and personal ornament in the earlier phase but spreading to more utilitarian applications in the later phases.

“The Middle Period (lOOO-500/300 BC) was notable for the introduction of wet-rice farming, as evidenced by the presence of waterbuffalo bones, and technological developments in ceramic and metal production, It was a period of considerable prosperity, as shown by the grave-goods, and one which saw the introduction of iron into common use. In the Late Period (500/300 BC-AD 200/300) there was further social and technological development. especially in ceramic design and production. Although occupation appears to have ended at Ban Chiang in the 3rd century AD, at other sites in the region, such as Non Maung and Ban Prasat, settlement was continuous into the 16th century and later.

“Ban Chiang is considered to have been the principal settlement in this area of the Khorat plateau and has given its name to a distinctive archaeological culture. Scores of contemporary sites have been discovered in the region, at several of which excavations have been carried out. The prehistoric settlement lies beneath the modern village of Ban Chiang (established by Laotian refugees in the late 18th century). It is a low oval mound some 500m by 1.3km. Only very limited excavation has been possible in the settlement site, but this has established the existence of deep stratification and long cultural continuity.”

Phuphrabat Historical Park

Phuphrabat Historical Park (30 kilometers southwest of Vientiane, Laos and 70 kilometers northwest of Udon Thani) was nominated to be a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2004 According to a reported submitted to UNESCO: “The site is the landscape of a wooded sandstone hill adorned with patches of huge bare rocks in spectacular overhanging positions, some balanced on pedestals of oddity. This scenic and awesome beauty of nature has had, over the millennia since prehistoric times, a compelling spiritual effect on humans in the neighbourhood to associate the site with sanctity, as evidenced by the presence of visual arts of different cultural periods. The scenic Phuphrabat associative cultural landscape is unique in that this single site contains authentic cultural treasures that represent major cultures of different periods of the region, effectively epitomizing the continuum of the whole cultural history of mainland Southeast Asia. [Source: Prof. Dr. Adul Wichiencharoen National World Heritage Committee of Thailand]

All together, the site incorporates separate 68 cultural locations, most of which contain rock paintings of the prehistoric period as well as the stylised, religious icons of the successive cultural periods. The iconic representations comprise sculptures in low and high relief as well in the round, representing the earliest Buddhist Dhvaravadi civilisation as well as the successive Hindu Khmer and Buddhist Lanchang cultures. It is significant that both Dhvaravadi and Khmer images carried the unmistakable native characteristics typical of the Laotian trait, which finally developed and established itself as what is known as the Lanchang Buddhist culture paralleling the art style of Ayuthaya in central Thailand.

Significantly, among the religious representations on Phuphrabat hill, there are also two symbolic footprints of Lord Buddha of carved stone at ground level in the Lanchang art style. It is for this reason that the hill is known as "Phuphrabat", which means the Hill of Buddha's Footprints. There exists up to this day a small, unobtrusive monastery, which houses one of the Buddha's Footprints in a small, proportionate stupa. All this added to the uniqueness of Phuphrabat and harmonised with its overall cultural landscape and its significance as a sacred and ceremonial place. Phuphrabat hill is a disconnected ridge on the eastern edge of Phu Phan Range.

The hill is about 352 metres above mean sea level, 9 km long from North to South, and 2 km wide. Surrounded by greenery, Phuphrabat is bordered to the west by an escarpment sloping down towards the east. The forest area on the hill and in the adjacent lowland surroundings is a mix of dry evergreen forest, dry dipterocarp forest and dry mixed deciduous forest all in undisturbed state. The historical park proper, which includes the wooded area on the hill, as gazetted in April 1981, covers an area of 3430 rais (548.8 hectares), accommodating 81 cultural locations, all associated with the exposed patches of bare rocks on the hill. In addition to this associative physical connection between nature and culture, an age-old Laotian legend had also added another cultural dimension to the cultural context of the Phuphrabat hill and the associated groups of wondrous formations of the exposed bare rocks. Their individual imagination-inspiring identities had been ascribed to and named after the mythical figures of the Usa-Baros dramatic legend of ancient Vientiane's origin It should be noted that no evidence or trace has been found to suggest that people at any time had ever lived on Phuphrabat hill; they went up there only to conduct religious or other solemn ceremonies as evidenced by the presence of religious images and representations. The whole landscape of Phuphrabat hill, including the forest park and the historical park, will be nominated for inscription on the World Heritage List.

Image Sources:

Text Sources: Tourist Authority of Thailand, Thailand Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department, New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, Times of London, Lonely Planet Guides, Library of Congress, Compton’s Encyclopedia, The Guardian, National Geographic, Smithsonian magazine, The New Yorker, Time, Newsweek, Reuters, AP, AFP, Policy, Wikipedia, BBC, CNN, and various books and other publications.

Last updated August 2020


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