SIGHTS IN MANILA

Sights in Manila include interesting historical sites, centuries-old churches, lovely parks, a botanical garden, a zoo and a number of small and sometimes charming museums, such as the the Ayala and Museo. The Philippine National Museum, which was almost totally destroyed during World War II, has permanent, mostly scientific and historical, exhibitions and occasional exhibits of Philippine art and artifacts. The are also a fair number of small galleries, with mostly modern art.

Malacanang Palace, former home of Ferdinand and Imelda Marcos, is now a museum, with memorabilia from the Marcos era. Intramuros (meaning within the walls) is the old Spanish part of Manila. It contains two old churches, Plaza Roma with its statue to the three martyred priests, and Fort Santiago, with the Rizal Museum. Casa Manila in the heart of Intramuros, is a model of a 19th-century upper-class urban home. Intramuros itself is heavily fortified and combines interesting Asian, Occident, Old World and New World elements.

Liza Constantino wrote: The Philippines is “the best place to discover that the fun things in life can be free” — or at least cheap. “Enjoy the sound of horse-drawn carriages called kalesas when you visit the walled city of Intramuros. Built in the Spanish colonial period, see century-old structures within it like the Philippines’ oldest existing church, San Agustin Church — also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At Rizal Park, the Philippines’ national hero Jose Rizal seems to have picked a good spot to rest. Stop by his monument on your way to the park’s open-air auditorium. It hosts free events like film screenings, ballets and theatrical performances by local and foreign artists.

“When it’s time to end your day, follow the sun. Manila Bay offers one of the world’s best sunset views and is a favorite spot of photographers and locals. Further south, you’ll see the Cultural Center of the Philippines. It’s the hotspot of the country’s best theatrical, musical, and dance performances. Foreign acts and Broadway shows are also regularly shown here. Then hop on a cab and head to nearby SM Mall of Asia,” one of the world’s largest malls — “shopping or no shopping, it’s something to see.”

“A relatively new development, Bonifacio Global City — popularly known as The Fort — has become a good spot to enjoy clean, pocket parks. Join the mix of runners, bikers, and pet lovers who favor its less congested roads. Navigate the artwalks found within and around Bonifacio High Street, like a sundial sculpture and interactive floor chimes, all by Filipino artists....Learn the Filipino value of bayanihan or community spirit by contributing your time and talents to a cause. Gawad Kalinga (To give care) is an NGO that believes in building communities to eradicate poverty. Volunteer to help put up a house for a deserving family. Or share your knowledge and skills in agriculture, entrepreneurship or tourism. People from all backgrounds are welcome to lend a hand.”

Manila Bay

Manila Bay is huge semicircular harbor filled with anchored and moving ships. It's entrance is 48 kilometers (30 miles) across and is divided into two channels: one by the island of Corregidor and the other by the island of Cabbalo. The northern channel of Boca Chica ("Little Mouth") is three and half kilometers wide; the southern channel at Boca Grande is divided by the small island of El Fraile and has a usable width of five kilometers.

Manila Bay, as every Philippine tourist brochure will tell you, is also a wonderful place to watch sunsets. Some evening when the weather is just right the clouds slowly change in color from white to pink and violet and rose, and then explode into ruby red with flickers of gold as the sun slips into the South China Sea.

Spanish rule in the Philippines ended and United States rule started in August 1898, after enduring for more than 300, when years U.S. Admiral Dewey entered the bay and destroyed the Spanish fleet there in the Battle of Manila Bay in the Spanish-American War.

In 1966, when the The Beatles played in Manila, the Beatles toured Manila Bay when Philippine President Ferdinand Marcos thought they would be visited him.. Danee Samonte wrote on philstar.com: ““Unbeknownst to The Beatles, the concert promoter Ramon Ramos committed to the Marcos family that they would eat lunch at Malacañang Palace (the official residence of the current Philippine President) as special guests of the first family. Because the arrangement wasn’t made with Brian Epstein, The Beatles weren’t able to attend to the disappointment of not only the First Family but also the cabinet secretaries, senators, congressmen and VIPs who were there to welcome them. [Source: Danee Samonte, philstar.com October 9, 2011 \=]

“The two concerts the next day at the Rizal Memorial Stadium were staged successfully and without incident, but the following day when they were on the way to the airport all hell broke loose. Their security escort was gone, The Beatles had to carry their own gear and take a taxicab. All courtesies and VIP privileges were removed. Upon reaching the airport, no porters helped, the escalators were turned off so they had to lug their baggage up two flights of stairs where an angry crowd mobbed the entourage causing injury. To make matters worse, their flight got delayed due to customs officials and airport personnel hassling them. When The Beatles were finally allowed to leave, they swore never to return to the Philippines.”

Battle of Manila Bay

Dewey guessed correctly that danger of mines was "negligible" and slipped by the fortifications at the entrance of Manila Bay at night while the guards and gunnners were sleeping at their posts. The fortification at El Friale got off four shots. The batteries at Corregidor and Cabaalo delivered “none at all."

The Spanish commander, Adm. Patrico Montojo, had requested backup and more supplies from Spain but they never arrived. When news arrived that the Americans were in Manila Bay, he positioned his forces at the southern end of the bay in a place called Cavite, reportedly to spare Manila the shelling from an attack and because the waters there were shallow enough that his men could escape with their lives if the ships were sunk.

The sea battle lasted only three hours. Not a single American was killed by enemy fire and only eight were wounded, none seriously. In contrast 381 Spaniards were killed or wounded. Dewey moved his ships to a range from the Spanish ships where his guns could hit their ships but their guns couldn't hit his. He gave the order, "you may fire when you are ready," and the American ships pounded away and found their mark at a distance of 2,000 yards. All but one of Spanish ships were sunk. Only one American ship was hit and it remained afloat with no deaths.

The sinking of the Spanish fleet meant that 15,000 Spanish soldiers were holed up in Intramuros— the Walled City of Manila—cut off from supplies and reinforcements. Three months later 11,000 American soldiers were in the Philippines and the 250,000 people in Manila were starving and sick. Their water supply had been cut off and people were eating horses and cats.

Messages were sent back and forth between Dewey and the Spanish commander in Manila, General Fermin Jaudenes. A face-saving charade was worked out that the Americans would "attack" the fortification of Manila and the Spanish surrender. At 9:35am on August 13, 1898, American forces sent shells flying in the direction of Spanish positions but as planned none caused any serious damage. At 11:20 Jaudenes raised a white flag in surrender. Six Americans were killed in various accidents.

Malacanang Palace

Malacanang Palace (in San Miguel on Mendiola Street) is where Ferdinand and Imelda Marcos held court for 20 years before they were thrown out in the People Power demonstration in 1986. Built by a Spanish aristocrat and enlarged and refurbished by the Marcoses, it was subjected to exorcism by a Roman Catholic priest when Aquino came to power, and then turned it into a tourist attraction to bring attention to the excesses of the Marcos regime.

For many years Malacanang Palace was the most popular tourist attraction in the Philippines. Visitors were particularly interested in viewing Imelda Marcos's 508 floor-length gowns, 15 mink coats, 888 handbags, her famous 1,220 pairs of shoes (including one battery-powered pair that glowed in the dark), and 65 parasols as well as thousands of personalized Ferdinand Marcos golf balls and his and hers bullet proof vests.

In 1997, President Ramos decided enough was enough. He ordered the removal of Imelda's possessions and a conversion of the palace into a stuffy museum on the Philippine presidency. The number of visitors to the palace plummeted. Although Malacanang Palace is not as interesting as it once was, it is worth a visit. You can still get a sense of what it was like in the Marcos years. One exhibit room is in Imelda's bedroom. Another is in her walk-in closet. Some of her shoes are now on display in a local shoe museum.

Philippine Film Center

Philippine Film Center (Roxas Avenue on Manila Bay) is the concrete structure commissioned by Imelda Marcos for Manila's first festival in 1981. The building was intended to emulate the Parthenon in Athens, but only bigger and grander. The structure was the centerpiece of Imelda’s Her "beatification" projects, which involved taking a bulldozer to the neighborhoods of the ultra-poor and leveling their shacks. The practice was stopped whenever a major international event came to Manila such as the World Bank Conference in 1976.

On November 17, 1981, dozens of workers were killed when a scaffolding collapsed on the film festival building. The corpses were never recovered; they were simply entombed in cement so the building could be completed in time. Many people believed the building is haunted by ghosts because the workers were never given a proper burial.

Imelda help bring the Miss Universe Pageant to Manila in 1974 and put together "The History or a Race," a song and dance performance that paid tribute to Filipinos with men dressed like primitive tribesmen and World War II soldiers. The show also feature films clip of Imelda meeting Mao in China in 1974 and singing Dahil Sa Iyo, a love song for both her husband and the Philippines (with the chorus "Because of you I attained happiness/ I offer you my love/ If it is true that you shall enslave me/ All of this because of you.")

M. H. Del Pilar and Ermita-Malate area in Manila

M. H. Del Pilar used to ve situated in the heart of Manila's red light district. Girlie bars with girls parading around in pasties and negligees were mixed with karaokes, restaurants, love hotels and guest houses. Drunks and tourists walked the streets; touts tried to coax men into their bars; and the police stood around looking bored. The tragic thing about the hostesses and prostitutes here was that many of them are teenagers underneath heavy layers of make-up.

Marcelo H. del Pilar Street, also known as M.H. del Pilar Street or simply Del Pilar Street, is a north-south road running for approximately 2 kilometers (1.2 mi) connecting Ermita and Malate districts in Manila. Ermita, once a posh area of Manila, was rebuilt after the devastation of World War II. As decades passed, it started earning a reputation as the red-light district of Manila. During the first term of Mayor Alfredo Lim, 1992-1998, an effort was made to "clean up" Ermita's image and reputation. However, a local city ordinance prohibiting the establishment of motels, lodging houses and other similar establishments, was later declared unconstitutional by the Supreme Court. As a result of the clean-up efforts, nightlife in the area dwindled though it later picked up with the help of the emergence of the nearby Malate district and the Roxas Boulevard revitalization efforts along Manila Bay.

Tracy Cabrera wrote in Opinyon.com: “From the late 40s to the 70s, the Ermita-Malate area in Manila was well-known as the city’s red light district. Foreigners, mostly American servicemen as well as their European and Australian counterparts used to wander round the narrow streets finding entertainment from several bars lined up mostly along Mabini and M.H. Del Pilar streets. Among their favorite watering holes were the Australian Club, Firehouse and Pussycat among other joints, where foreigners would eat and drink their fill and eventually find their bedmate from the many Filipinas who, after the war, were looking for an easy life in the city.

“Decades later, the bars were closed down in response to repeated calls from upstanding citizens and the Catholic Church who asked for an end to the vices that permeated from the continued existence of the girlie bars mostly owned by foreign nationals using ‘dummies’ to evade local laws. The city government’s move seemingly had a good effect since the bars were all gone (but in reality just transferred to the nearby cities, particularly Pasay and Makati).

“Now with the advent of the new millennium and more than a decade later, what seemed to have erased the stigma of Ermita and Malate as Manila’s red light district has been found to be secretly hidden when one considers the extent of the sex trade’s reach in Metro Manila. The bars actually still exist but they are no longer the singles bars and girlie joints that were well-known in their heyday. Instead they have now metamorphosed into videoke bars, karaokes and music lounges catering, they say, to those wanting to showcase their singing talents.

“Yet there are darker elements in the works. Girls are still the products being sold inside these establishments—posing as guest relations officers and waitresses assigned to assist their customers while singing and drinking. They are given employment permits only to work as waitresses so they are not supposed to sit down with their ‘guests’ as entertainers.

“However, the city government is turning a blind eye to this practice because there are really no formal complaints against the practice. The girls get jobs and get a little earning and that closes the issue. Although the night entertainment business in Ermita and Malate focuses mainly on the music lounges, there also remain three American-style singles bar in both areas: Los Angeles Café at the corner of M.H. Del Pilar and Romeo Salas streets, G-Point on Padre Faura street and the more recent Badonkadonk near L.A. Café. These three bars are mainly pick-up joints where lecherous men can choose from the several young women who frequent the place looking for those they can entertain—conversationally, gastronomically or sexually.”

Manila Hotel

Manila Hotel is said to have the best view of the sunset over Manila Harbor. Before World War II, General MacArthur lived here like a sultan with his mistress. The Manila Hotel was Manila’s first hotel. Established in 1912, it also hosted the Marlon Brando, and The Beatles, who were forced to carry their own luggage out of the hotel after Philippine President Ferdinand Marcos felt snubbed by the band and ordered that the hotel staff — and airport personnel — not assist them in way.

General Douglas MacArthur came to the Philippines in 1935 at the invitation of Manual Quezon, the man who became the Philippines’ first president in 1945. In 1937, MacArthur retired from the army but continued his work in the Philippines. Quezon gave him the rank of Field Marshall and helped set him up in a seven-room penthouse at the Manila Hotel. On his trip to the Philippines MacArthur met Jean Fairbanks, whom he later married and had a son with. The hotel is surrounded by its own landscaped park. The MacArthur Suite goes for around $2,000 a night.

When Brando stayed at the hotel in 1956 during the shooting of film, the writer Iking Garcia waited seven hours to talk to him and persisted even though every person he talked to, including producer George England and scriptwriter W. Stern, said ‘Impossible. Mr. Brando has no time for an interview.’ Finally England emerged from Brando’s Manila Hotel suite and said, ‘Mr. Brando will see you but alone.’ Afterwards Garcia wrote: ““That ‘Magnificent Slob’ they call Marlon Brando is no slob. I know. I talked to him, drank scotch and soda with him, for almost an hour, at his well-guarded suite at the Manila Hotel. And far from the unsmiling Napoleon in Desiree or the tough stevedore in On the Waterfront, the Hollywood Award winner was a perfect Gentleman.”“

Cultural Center of the Philippines

Cultural Center of the Philippines is where concerts, plays, ballet and Filipino dance performances are held. The complex also contains the Philippine International Convention Center and the Philippine International Trade Exhibit. Over the years it has hosted the Bolshoi Ballet, Frank Sinatra and Placido Domingo and was at its peak during the Marcos era. AFP reported: “But 40 years after it was controversially built along Manila Bay, the now iconic block of masonry that seems to float over water fountains at night stands as one of dictator Ferdinand Marcos's more pleasant legacies. [Source: Agence France-Presse, September 24, 2009]

“The CCP, as it is commonly known, came to being only because it was a pet project of infamous former first lady Imelda Marcos, who was accused of wasting billions of dollars on extravagant projects while disregarding the poor masses. While the nation was spiralling deeply into debt, the CCP enjoyed the spending power only the Marcoses could provide and brought the world's premier performers from Europe and the United States all the way to Manila.

“Former Filipino ballet dancer Nestor Jardin was there in the glory days of the 1970s, when the world's best ballerina, Margot Fonteyn, brought great pleasure to those in the 1,893-seat main theatre. That halcyon era also saw tenor Placido Domingo sing for the opera "Tosca", while the Bolshoi Ballet performed "Swan Lake" and Frank Sinatra cast his famous blue eyes across an enraptured audience. Jardin, who started as a ballet dancer at the center in 1973, has been its president for the past eight years and remains upbeat about its role today as a local and regional artistic hub despite hosting no global stars. "I think the CCP has helped discover, nurture and support the Filipino artist in such a way that some of them have achieved high standards of excellence recognized both here and abroad," Jardin said.

“Indeed, the world-renowned pianist Cecile Licad was nurtured at the center while Lea Salonga trained and auditioned there for her award-winning role as Kim in the Broadway musical "Miss Saigon". (Southeast Asian countries) look up to the Philippines as far as artistic talents are concerned, be they performers or visual artists or directors or choreographers," Jardin said.

Today, the center continues a steady turnover of performances that may not make the grade internationally but provides an important platform for artists in the Philippines and Southeast Asia. The center's annual festival that features young, independent local filmmakers with no commercial experience drew in a huge college-based crowd of 41,000 in July, a five-fold rise from its inaugural staging four years ago. With a philharmonic orchestra, four dance companies, a drama outfit and a choral group, the center also hosts about 500 performances, exhibitions and other artistic events every year.

“It does so on a shoestring budget compared with the Marcos era of 330 million pesos (8.68 million dollars), 47 percent from the government and the rest from private patrons. "I'm not saying that (culture) is not supported and given attention (by the government), but it's not a priority over other economic programs," Jardin said. Perhaps best illustrating the current fortunes of the CCP is that it defied critics who said there was no demand and hosted four operas this year, double its recent annual average, and sold 60-80 percent of the tickets. However Jardin said about five of its ballet dancers — nearly 10 percent of the total — were lost every year, lured by fat salaries from the likes of Hong Kong Disneyland, the American Ballet Theatre and the Singapore Dance Theatre.”

Coconut Palace

Coconut Palace (inside the Cultural Center of the Philippines) is a palace constructed almost totally from different parts of the coconut palm. Also known as Tahanang Pilipino (“Filipino Home”), it was the official residence and the principal workplace of the Vice President of the Philippines and was commissioned in 1978 by former First Lady Imelda Marcos as a government guest house. Among those who have stayed there are Libyan dictator Muammar al-Gaddafi, Brooke Shields and George Hamilton. It was offered to Pope John Paul II during the Papal visit to the Philippines in 1981 but was refused to stay there because it was too opulent given the level of poverty in the Philippines.

The Coconut Palace cost PHP 37 million to build and was partly financed by the coconut levy fund, which was set up for the welfare of poor coconut farmers and is close associated Imelda Marcos' “edifice complex,” a term popularized by architectural historian Gerard Lico as the "obsession and compulsion to build edifices as a hallmark of greatness or as a signifier of national prosperity."

The Coconut Palace is made of several types of Philippine hardwood, coconut shells, and a specially engineered coconut lumber apparently known as Imelda Madera. Each of the suites on the second floor is named after a specific region of the Philippines and displays some of the handicrafts these regions produce. The palace is shaped like an octagon (the shape given to a coconut before being served), while the roof is shaped like a traditional Filipino salakot or hat. Some of its highlights are the 101 coconut-shell chandelier, and the dining table made of 40,000 tiny pieces of inlaid coconut shells — all of which demonstrate how coconut truly the “Tree of Life”. In 2004, it was a stop on the reality show :The Amazing Race,” when contestants were welcomed by the daughter of the Philippine president.

Museums in Manila and Imelda’s Shoes

The Philippine National Museum, which was almost totally destroyed during World War II, features permanent exhibitions, mostly on historical and scientific topics, and occasional exhibits of Philippine art and artifacts. The museum contains 4,722 artifacts, including goods from all over Southeast Asia, found at the Pandnanan Wreck of Chinese trading vessel that went down off Palawan in 1414. The Museum also holds the most extensive exhibit of Galleon Trade relics in the Philippines and illustrates the origins of the Filipino people. The National Museum itself is a fine example of Neo-Classical architecture. Other Museums in Manila include the Philippine Metropolitan Museum, with a fine collection of gold artifacts; the Carfel Museum, the Central Bank Money Museum.

Marikina Shoe Museum (in Marikina on the eastern outskirts of Manila) opened in February 2001 features 220 pairs of Imelda Marcos’s shoes. Malacanang Palace for a while displayed 1,200 pairs of her shoes and Imelda herself opened a shoe museum During a flood in 2009, the shoes at the Marikina Shoe Museum had to be rescued.

AFP reported: “The 200-pair display was moved upstairs just before flood waters swamped the ground floor of the Marikina Shoe Museum. Marikina, the Philippines' shoe production capital, was among the hardest hit areas when Tropical Storm Ketsana dumped record rains in and around Manila on September 26, killing nearly 300 people. The Marikina museum showcases the Marcos collection and an assortment of other footwear worn by former Philippine presidents, senators, ambassadors, and Marikina mayors. [Source: Agence France-Presse, October 8, 2009] Alaya Museum ( De La Rosa Street in Makati) has colorful dioramas depicting scenes from Philippine history and archaeological and ethnographic objects from some of its ancient cultures. Housed in a building by the famed architect Leandro V. Locsin, it features 60 handcrafted dioramas that chronicle major events of Philippine history. It also has a unique boat gallery with miniature models of a variety the water crafts used in Philippine waters. The fine arts collection features works by three painters considered pioneers in Philippine art: Juan Luna (1857-1899), Fernando Amorsolo (1882-1972), and Fernando Zobel (1924-1984). There are also some 19th century genre paintings from the 19th century that show liberal European ideas expressed in Philippine secular art.The Alaya Museum was closed in human rights 2019 for renovations.

Makati

Makati (On the north side of Manila) is Manila's main business district. Many of the city's large commercial hotels, upscale shopping malls and fancy restaurants are located here. Makati is also the home of Manila’s stock exchange, investment banks, large department stores, designer shops, cinemas and exclusive sport clubs. Major Philippine companies such as Ayala, Jollibee Foods Corporation, SM Group, and Metrobank are based in the business districts of Makati, Ortigas Center, and Bonifacio Global City.

Most upscale discos, bars and nightclubs are found in the Makati area. In Makati, there is the Greenbelt, Glorietta, The Fort, Jupiter St. and J. P. Rizal Street. The best shops and shopping malls are located near the large hotels in Makati. In Makati there is the huge Ayala Center , which includes Glorietta, Greenbelt and the boutique shops of 6750 Ayala Avenue. Nearby in , Mandaluyong is SM Megamall, the second largest shopping mall in the Philippines and the ninth largest in the world. It is located in Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong. Nearby is Robinson’s Galleria.

Alaya Museum ( De La Rosa Street in Makati) has colorful dioramas depicting scenes from Philippine history and archaeological and ethnographic objects from some of its ancient cultures. Housed in a building by the famed architect Leandro V. Locsin, it features 60 handcrafted dioramas that chronicle major events of Philippine history. It also has a unique boat gallery with miniature models of a variety the water crafts used in Philippine waters. The fine arts collection features works by three painters considered pioneers in Philippine art: Juan Luna (1857-1899), Fernando Amorsolo (1882-1972), and Fernando Zobel (1924-1984). There are also some 19th century genre paintings from the 19th century that show liberal European ideas expressed in Philippine secular art.The Alaya Museum was closed in human rights 2019 for renovations.

The Metro Railway Transit (MRT or MRT 3) traverses the length of EDSA and connects North Avenue in Quezon City to Taft Avenue in Pasay City, passing through the major arteries of Makati's financial district. Also known as the Blue Line or Metrostar Express, the MRT 3 runs along EDSA and passes through the Manila Metro area districts of Makati, Mandaluyong, Pasay, Quezon City, and San Juan. The MRT 3 operates from 5:30am to 10:30pm. It is often crowded nearly 300 people.

Marikina

Marikina (eastern outskirts of Manila) is a suburb of Manila with about a half million residents. It is the home of the Philippines’s shoe industry which has fallen on hard times in recent years. There are still some old stone houses here that predate World War II. Marikina is predominately a residential community. Many residents work in other places so the traffic here can be quite bad. The Marikina museum showcases the Marcos collection and an assortment of other footwear worn by former Philippine presidents, senators, ambassadors, and Marikina mayors.

According to ASIRT: Roads follow a grid pattern, except in Marikina Heights where roads are arranged in a circular or radial pattern. Secondary roads are often narrow with limited parking. Vendor stands and businesses commonly encroach on sidewalks, restricting pedestrian traffic. Two rivers run through the city: Marikina River runs north to south through city center. Nangka River runs through northern Marikina. Marikina Bridge and Marcos Highway Bridge link the river’s banks. Tumana Bridge links northern Marikina to Quezon City. Sierra Madre Mountains run east of the city. City is favorable for cycling. Bikeways link residential areas with commercial and industrial areas, schools, and several public transport stations, including LRT stations. Bikeways are clearly marked and have signage and lighting. Bicycles account for a larger percent of local trips than in Metro Manila. [Source: Association for Safe International Road Travel (ASIRT), PDF, 2012]

Marikina Shoe Museum opened in February 2001 features 220 pairs of Imelda Marcos’s shoes. Malacanang Palace for a while displayed 1,200 pairs of her shoes and Imelda herself opened a shoe museum During a flood in 2009, the shoes at the Marikina Shoe Museum had to be rescued.

Flooding and erosion of river banks are common during heavy rains. On the impact of 2009 flooding on the shoe museum, AFP reported: “The 200-pair display was moved upstairs just before flood waters swamped the ground floor of the Marikina Shoe Museum. Marikina was among the hardest hit areas when Tropical Storm Ketsana dumped record rains in and around Manila on September 26, killing” [Source: Agence France-Presse, October 8, 2009]

Metro Light Rail Line 2 (LRT Line 2) runs east-west through metropolitan area, linking Santolan Station in Marikina City to Recto Station in Manila. Also known as the Purple Line, the LRT 2 traverses five cities in Metro Manila: Pasig, Marikina, Quezon City, San Juan and Manila) along the major thoroughfares of Marcos Highway, Aurora Boulevard, Ramon Magsaysay Boulevard, Legarda and Recto Avenue. Stations are handicap accessible. Escalators are available.

ASIRT reports: 1) Marikina “is served by several major, national roads:Marikina- Infanta Road (also known as Marcos Highway) and Sumulong Highway (Corazon Aquino Avenue). Road network is inadequate to handle increasing traffic levels. Traffic is heavily congested during rush hour. 2) Buses, jeepneys and tricycles provide public transportation. Manila LRT-2 serves the city. Board at Santolan Station. 3) Tricycles provide most short distance local transport. 4) Be alert for vehicles illegally parked on bike paths. Bicycle theft is increasing. Properly secure bike when parked.

Manila’s Underground Fashion in the Pedestrian Tunnels along Recto Boulevard

In a dim, sweltering pedestrian tunnel beneath Manila’s university district, according to AFP in the early 2010s, shoemaker Julius Wilfredo Gregorio bends over his work, stitching rubber soles onto hand-crafted leather boots. At 37, he aims to finish five pairs a day to keep up with growing demand from budget-conscious fashion enthusiasts. [Source: Jason Gutierrez, Agence France-Presse, April 27, 2011]

Since taking over his father’s shop, “Freddie’s Leather Haus,” in 1991, Gregorio has built a loyal following among both local and foreign customers. His designs, inspired by high-end boutique styles, offer quality and flair at a fraction of the cost. “You don’t have to be a rich action movie star to own top-quality boots and be fashionable,” he said, sweat dripping as a worn electric fan struggled to cool the space. “I can make you shoes that will make you feel like one—all you have to add is a little attitude.”

Gregorio is part of Manila’s underground fashion scene, a semi-legal network of tailors, cobblers, and craftsmen operating out of pedestrian tunnels along Recto Boulevard. Over the years, these cramped stalls have become a symbol of resistance to the city’s luxury-driven fashion industry, catering instead to students and young people with limited budgets but strong personal style.

The tunnels offer a wide range of goods—jeans, boots, leatherwear, accessories, uniforms, and athletic gear—all at affordable prices. While many designs are inspired by popular American brands, customers can also commission custom pieces or choose from original creations. Prices remain accessible, with jeans selling for as little as 300 to 400 pesos ($6–9), and handmade cowhide boots reaching around 4,000 pesos ($93).

Among the most popular items are colorful basketball jerseys, reflecting the country’s deep love for the sport. “I often go here to get my clothes done,” said Pauline Banigued, a 23-year-old communications student having a blouse tailored nearby. “They are not exactly fashion runway material, but they suit my taste just the same.”

Though the shops began operating illegally in the 1970s, authorities have largely tolerated them, allowing the vendors to continue in exchange for minimal rent and electricity fees. Despite competition from global brands in modern malls, the tunnel businesses have endured, sustained by loyal customers and word-of-mouth. Even natural disasters have failed to shut them down. After devastating floods in 2009 submerged the tunnels, the vendors quickly returned, driven by continued demand.

Veteran tailor Ruben Rosal, 59, has witnessed the evolution firsthand. Starting with denim jeans, he expanded his offerings to include blouses, skirts, and uniforms. His shop, Crazy Horse Jeans—named after the popularity of spaghetti westerns in the 1970s—has grown into a family business with four locations, helping fund his children’s university educations.

More than just a livelihood, Rosal sees his work as a service to the community. “I’ve been a farmer and a fisherman in the province, but this is what I do best,” he said. “I have made clothes for all sorts of people, and I feel happy when they come back because they are satisfied. I always say that good, quality clothes are for everyone—not just those who have the money to buy them.”

Quezon City

Quezon City(20 kilometers from downtown Manila, but still part of Manila’s sprawling suburbs) was the capital of the Philippines from 1948 to 1976, and still officially listed as the capital even though few government agencies have their offices here. The area was formerly a private estate named for Filipino statesman Manuel Luis Quezon. Now it is home to almost three million residents.

Quezon City is technically the most populated city in the Philippines as it has more people than Manila proper. The terrain consists of rolling hills, ridges and lowlands. In some places there are steep hills with a gradient ranging from 8 percent to 15 percent. Several rivers and streams pass through the city and flooding is an issue. Flash flooding risks are high in Tandang Sora, Mindanao Avenue, Tomas Morato, Kamuning Street, EDSA, P. Tuason Street, Aurora Boulevard and Santo Domingo streets, Roxas district and Commonwealth-Santo Niño area. Risk of tidal flooding is limited to land along San Juan River in Santol area. Erosion of river and stream banks may damage roads and bridges. Road closures are possible.

Quezon City is a businesses center but also has recreational and entertainment opportunities. Although it is part of the sprawling Manila metro area, it also has its own identity. Quezon City is the site of the main campus of the University of the Philippines, founded in 1908. Several theaters and concert halls are located here. Among them Areneta Coliseum, Abelardo Hall and Guerrero Theatre (connected with the university). The British Council Center, the Goethe Institute and a number of galleries greatly enrich greater Manila's cultural life.

Quezon City is a popular entertainment destination of locals as the club prices are a little lower than those in Makati. Most clubs are close to each other so common to bar hop. Try the establishments along Timog & Tomas Morato Avenues and Quezon Boulevard, and in Eastwood City in Libis. In Quezon City you can see a church located on the same street as the bars. The comedy Klownz, features gay moderators getting Filipino volunteers to come up on stage and, sing. The SM City North EDSA is a large shopping mall located in Quezon City. It is the largest shopping mall in the Philippines and the eighth largest shopping mall in the world.

According to ASIRT: 1) Quezon City is served by several main roads: C-3 (Araneta Avenue), C-4 (EDSA), C-5 (Katipunan - Luzon - Republic Avenue), R-6 (Aurora Blvd.), R-7 (Quezon Avenue - Commonwealth Avenue) and R-8 (Bonifacio Avenue - Quirino Highway). The roads link the city other areas in Metro Manila. 2) Traffic is often congested. Traffic jams are common at intersections of main roads: Quezon Avenue and Araneta Avenue, Quezon Avenue and EDSA, Aurora Blvd. and EDSA, Commonwealth Avenue and Don Antonio and Quirino Highway and Susano Road. 3) Major bus stations include Araneta Center Bus Terminal in Cubao and several stations along Epifanio delos Santos Avenue (EDSA). 4) Jeepneys, taxis and tricycles also provide transport. 5) Prior to major holidays, Quezon City police inspect major bus terminals and LRT and MRT stations to assure safety of passengers. [Source: Association for Safe International Road Travel (ASIRT), PDF, 2012]

Outstanding Churches in Quezon City

UP Chapel of the Holy Sacrifice is located in Quezon City, within the campus of the University of the Philippines Diliman. Built in the 1950s under the guidance of Fr. John Delaney, S.J., the university’s influential chaplain, the chapel is a landmark of modern Filipino sacred architecture. While its acoustics and layout are sometimes seen as less aligned with post–Vatican II liturgical practices, it remains significant for its integration of works by four National Artists: the circular architectural design by Leandro Locsin; the crucifix and altar by Napoleon Abueva; the terrazzo floor mural, “River of Life,” by Arturo Luz; and the Stations of the Cross by Vicente Manansala. [Source: Marge C. Enriquez, Philippine Daily Inquirer, April 9, 2011]

Church of the Gesù stands within the Ateneo de Manila University in Quezon City. Completed in 2003 by architects José Recio and Carmelo Casas, the church presents a modern, pyramid-like abstraction symbolizing the Holy Trinity and the Jesuit mission. Its design emphasizes simplicity, openness, and light, with extensive use of glass that visually connects the interior to the sky. The church also highlights contributions from contemporary Filipino artists: Juan Sajid Imao created the crucifix; Justino Cagayat, a Manlilikha ng Bayan awardee, crafted a Filipinized Immaculate Conception; José T. Badelles designed etched-glass artworks; and Felix Mago Miguel produced the mural for the Immaculate Conception Chapel. Additional chapel spaces, including those dedicated to the Sacred Heart and the Blessed Sacrament, were designed by Vincent Pinpin.

Our Lady of Pentecost Church in Loyola Heights, Quezon City, is a contemporary structure designed around the year 2000 by architect Vincent Pinpin. The church is notable for its creative use of brick as a decorative element, producing striking visual textures, as well as its integration of modern materials such as wrought iron and glass. The design reflects a balance between traditional forms and modern construction techniques, resulting in a distinctive and innovative sacred space.

St. Michael the Archangel Minor Basilica in Tayabas traces its origins to a humble 16th-century structure made of bamboo and palm thatch. Over the centuries, it was rebuilt and expanded following repeated earthquake damage, eventually incorporating a domed transept between the nave and aisles. Recognized as a national cultural treasure, the basilica stretches approximately 103 meters, making it the longest church in the Philippines. Its neoclassical interior, adorned with sculptures set in wall niches, creates a solemn and reverent atmosphere. The bell tower houses a rare 18th-century clock, the only one of its kind in the country.

Image Sources: Wikimedia Commons

Text Sources: Philippines Tourism websites, Philippines government websites, UNESCO, Wikipedia, Lonely Planet guides, New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, National Geographic, The New Yorker, Bloomberg, Reuters, Associated Press, AFP, Japan News, Yomiuri Shimbun, Compton's Encyclopedia and various books and other publications.

Last updated in March 2026