INTRAMUROS
Intramuros is the walled city of Old Manila. Covering 64 hectares (158 acres) and surrounded by 4.2 kilometers (2.6 miles) of walls, it houses the old town of Manila, Manila Cathedral, San Augustin church and monastery, two of the oldest churches in the Philippines, Plaza Roma with its statue to the three martyred priests, and Fort Santiago, with the Rizal Museum. Construction of Intramuros began soon after the Spanish arrived in 1571. Its walls grew to be 16 meters (50 feet) thick and six meters (20 feet) high, The fort was badly damaged by the the bombing in World War II and now is only a shadow its former self. San Augustin Church, built between 1587 and 1606, was the only building in Intramuros to survive the bombing.
Intramuros literally means “within the walls”. It served as the heart of Manila's political, religious and cultural life from its founding in 1571. The walled settlement itself is a unique combination of the Asian, Western, Old World and New World encircled by walls of made Asian materials in a tropical land. Even in their decaying state, the walls remain today as a monument to the Spanish era of Philippine history.
Mynardo Macaraig of AFP wrote: It “walls surrounded most of the government's offices as well as major churches, schools and trading centres during the three centuries the country was under Spanish rule, which ended in 1898. It was designed with walls, gates and gun emplacements to protect the Spanish residents from the Filipino masses, as well as guard the mouth of Manila's main river, the Pasig. Chinatown was also famously placed within cannonball distance of Intramuros so the Spanish could fire down on the Chinese traders whenever they became too troublesome. [Source: Mynardo Macaraig, AFP, June 10, 2011]
“But Intramuros started falling into decline after the Spanish left, with most of the damage occuring during World War II when US forces shelled Japanese troops hiding inside the walls. Many historic buildings, including nine of the 10 churches within Intramuros, were destroyed in the war. Some of these derelict structures are still standing, a reminder of the area's lost grandeur. Over the centuries, earthquakes and fires have also taken their toll.
“And while Intramuros's value is in its history, modern pressures have continued to erode its structures. Parts of Intramuros today include a busy commercial and government district, containing several government offices, four major universities and a variety of businesses. All of this results in congestion, noise, frequent traffic jams and a chronic lack of parking space. The area also houses more than 3,000 families of squatters who often can be seen asking tourists for alms while their shanties and graffiti mar the image of the walled city.”
Intramuros: A Waterfront Food and Entertainment Area?
Mynardo Macaraig of AFP wrote: After enduring wars, earthquakes, fires and poverty-driven neglect, the walled city of Intramuros that makes up the Philippine capital's historic centre may rise again as a tourist attraction. Government planners see the UNESCO World Heritage listed but famously dilapidated site becoming one of Manila's biggest drawcards, similar to Singapore's Clarke Quay but with the added colour of centuries of history. "We're going to make this the 'in' place to be," said Intramuros Administration chief Jose Capistrano. "It will be a living Intramuros with tabernas and tapas," he said, referring to Spanish-style restaurants and their signature finger snacks. Eventually, the administration hopes to have fireworks displays and light shows projected on the structure's six-meter (20-foot) high walls at night, Capistrano told reporters. The ambitious project will involve rehabilitating and reconstructing buildings, as well as developing a riverside area called the Maestranza Park into a mall for upmarket restaurants and shops. [Source: Mynardo Macaraig, AFP, June 10, 2011]
“But this endeavour will require tens of millions of dollars in investments which the cash-strapped government cannot afford, so it is hoping the private sector will sign up. Administration officials have been meeting with some of the country's real estate giants to drum up their interest in investing in the project, and Capistrano said their reactions had been very favourable. "They are interested in the projects. We feel confident that they will be coming in," he told AFP.
Capistrano said that, although a definitive cost estimate for the renovation had not yet been finalised, the potential investors were not intimidated by the large scope of the project. "No one said it might cost too much. The reaction when we tell them what these projects are has been very good," he said, adding he hoped to start a bidding process by the end of the year. Capistrano said the administration had limited power to evict the squatters. Many of them are on private property and are protected by laws designed to help the urban poor.
Tourism professionals operating in the area look forward to the upgrade but question whether the government can deliver amid the deterioration, overcrowding and squalor that have become common in parts of Intramuros. "We need restructuring of the buildings, getting rid of the slumdwellers, beautifying the place. There is so much garbage, there are eyesores," said Jose Mananzan, head of the Intramuros Tourism Council. Nevertheless, even without private investors, the government has taken the first step, spending 150 million pesos ($3.5 million) to turn the ruined shell of a church into a museum housing religious artifacts, Capistrano said.
Portions of the old historic wall in Maestranza that were torn down in the 1900s have also already been reconstructed through a Japanese grant, he said. This time, instead of housing gunpowder and cannon balls, the wall's vaulted inner chambers will hopefully house cafes and shops. More restoration work is underway at the Intramuros's garrison of Fort Santiago, where workers trained under a Spanish government grant are pulling down cement walls and replacing them with more authentic adobe and lime. Under the Spanish programme, two masons from Mexico taught the Filipinos how to mix lime and shape stone to recreate the original look of the building, which will become the new Intramuros visitors' centre. "We replaced the old timber that had rotted but we are bringing it back to its original look," said the workers' foreman, Jose de Lara.”
Buildings Inside Intramuros
Manila Cathedral (inside Intramuros) is the seat of Catholic Archdiocese of Manila. It was originally built in 1581, but has been destroyed and rebuilt six times after earthquakes, typhoons, war and fire. Casa Manila is a model of a 19th-century upper-class urban home. It contains beautiful 16th to 17th century furniture.
Fort Santiago was the headquarters of the Spanish military and the home of a prison in which thousands of Filipinos, including the country's national hero, Dr. Jose Rizal, were kept. Built on the bay side of Intramuros on a site originally occupied by the palace of Malay sultan, it was also used by Japanese as a prison in World War II. During the Battle of Manila in 1945, Fort Santiago was captured after an eight-day siege by American soldiers who pounded their way through dirt and concrete barriers, two stories high and 40 feet thick, only to find the bodies of 600 dead Filipinos and Americans in the dungeons.
Rizal Shrine (in a restored section of Fort Santiago) is a shrine set up in the room where Rizal was kept before he was executed. It contains sketches, paintings and manuscripts by Rizal. Rizal was executed here in 1896, triggering the Philippine Revolution. There is a monument with his remains. Every night, the life and death of Rizal is brought to life in light and sound show.
Rizal Park (short jeepney ride from Intramuros) is a wide expanse of manicured lawns with Japanese and Chinese gardens, numerous fountains, an open-air auditorium, a skating rink, and a huge three dimensional topographical map of the Philippines that can be viewed from a three meter high platform.
San Augustin Church
San Augustin Church (near Manila Cathedral inside Intramuros) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built between 1587 and 1606 by the Augustinian Order, it houses a lovely monastery, 26 large oil paintings of saints,, 68 stalls carved in molave wood, and an extensive collections of religious images and ecclesiastical artifacts. San Augustin Church is the only building in Intramuros to survive the bombing during World War II.
Officially known as the Church of the Immaculate Conception of San Agustín, San Agustin Church was the first church established on the island of Luzon, founded in 1571 immediately after the Spanish conquest of Manila. A site within Intramuros was granted to the Augustinian Order, the earliest missionaries to evangelize the Philippines. The initial structure, built of wood and palm thatch, proved temporary; in 1587 it was replaced by a more enduring stone church and monastery. This complex became the Augustinian mother house in the country and, remarkably, the church itself was the only building in Intramuros to survive the devastation of the Battle of Manila 1945. [Source: UNESCO]
The interior of the San Agustin church features traces of the original wall painting done in the Mexican style can still be seen. The trompe l’oeil interior painting done in the late 19th century influenced the interior painting of many Philippine churches. The structural design of the church was ahead of its time. It is said that the structure is supported by a raft type foundation that permits the entire structure to sway during earthquakes. San Agustin church also boasts of the only examples in the country of a barrel vault, dome, and arched vestibules supporting its choir loft, all made of stone.
A monastery complex was once linked to the church by a series of cloisters, arcades, courtyards and gardens. Today the monastery and church are the repository of what is considered to be the most priceless Philippine collection of religious art, including the earliest dated retablo, wall paintings, pulpit, choir lectern, choir stalls and an important archive of books.
The San Augustin Museum contains fine religious artifacts and relics from the Galleon Trade — from treasure chests to ivory santos (saints) to gold embroidered vestments. Juan Luna, one of the greatest Filipino painters, is interred here. Casa Manila, a lifestyle museum replicated from an 1800s home, is also in the area. The guards and the owners of the kalesas (horse-drawn carriages) are dressed in period costumes.
Baroque Churches of the Philippines
Four Baroque churches in the Philippines built by the Spanish in the late 16th to 18th centuries — located in Manila, Santa Maria, Paoay and Miag-ao — were designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2013 for their architectural style, a unique reinterpretation of European Baroque by Chinese and Philippine craftsmen. According to the UNESCO, the Baroque Churches of the Philippines comprise a serial inscription of four Roman Catholic churches built between the 16th and 18th centuries during the Spanish colonial period. These churches are dispersed across the Philippine archipelago: two are located on the northern island of Luzon, one stands within the historic walled district of Intramuros in Manila, and the fourth rises in the central Visayas, on the island of Iloilo. [Source: UNESCO]
As a group, these churches gave rise to a distinctive architectural style shaped by the environmental realities of the Philippines. Their design reflects both adaptation and innovation, influencing subsequent church construction throughout the region. Each structure exemplifies a uniquely Filipino interpretation of the Baroque, blending European architectural principles with indigenous materials and decorative traditions to create a new and enduring ecclesiastical form.
Characteristically, the churches possess a low, massive, and fortress-like appearance—an intentional response to threats from pirates and marauders, as well as to the country’s vulnerability to earthquakes. Constructed from stone such as tuff or coralline limestone, or from brick reinforced with lime, they display rich artistic and structural features. These include elaborate high Baroque retablos (altars), gracefully curved buttresses, and pyramidal finials adorning their facades. Some churches incorporate buttressed walls that divide interior spaces into crypt-like chapels, while others feature intricately carved pediments that express local interpretations of Christian themes. These carvings often include native elements such as papaya, coconut, and palm trees, as well as depictions of saints—like St. Christopher—clad in traditional Filipino attire.
The fusion of styles is further evident in the design of bell towers, which may either be attached to the main church structure or built as separate edifices. Inside, some churches boast ceiling paintings rendered in trompe l’oeil, adding depth and illusion to sacred spaces. Collectively, these churches also demonstrate careful site planning in accordance with the Laws of the Indies, established by Philip II of Spain in 1563 to guide the development of Spanish colonial settlements.
Interesting Era Churches in Manila
Manila Cathedral is formally known as the Basilica Minore of the Immaculate Conception in Manila, located in Manila. Although the present structure is a reconstruction from 1954 to 1958—replacing a 19th-century cathedral—it stands as a model of how historically significant churches can be faithfully restored. The project brought together Filipino artists and architects alongside Italian craftsmen. Among its most striking features are the imposing bronze main doors, the refined use of marble and travertine, and the stained glass windows created by Galo Ocampo. [Source: Marge C. Enriquez, Philippine Daily Inquirer, April 9, 2011]
Santa Ana Church and its Camarín de la Virgen, located in Sta. Ana, Manila, was the first Franciscan mission established outside Intramuros. Built in the 18th century, the church is renowned for its rich collection of religious art. Its prominence grew under Fray Vicente Inglés, who introduced the devotion to Nuestra Señora de los Desamparados (Our Lady of the Abandoned). Later, Governor-General Francisco de la Cuesta presented the image with a gold and crystal bastón de mando. Although a replica of the original in Valencia, Spain, it is unique in the Philippines for its Camarín—a hidden chamber behind the main retablo filled with precious artworks. Devotees ascend a flight of granite steps to venerate the Virgin, enshrined in a glass urn and crowned imperially, greeted by paintings of Saint Michael and Saint Gabriel at the entrance. Archaeological excavations in the church’s patio have also uncovered pottery and porcelain now housed in the National Museum of the Philippines.
San Jose Manggagawa Church is located in Barangka, Marikina, near Loyola Memorial Park. One of several churches in the parish, its interior has been “Baroquized” in recent years through the addition of a colonial-style retablo, reflecting a broader trend in church renovation. Within the parish, the Church of Our Lady of Pentecost houses a notable crucifix by National Artist Napoleon Abueva, popularly known as “Billy” Abueva.
Quiapo Church: Where the Black Nazarene is Kept
Quiapo Church (in Quiapo district of Manila) is home for the famous Black Nazarene, a dark, 200-year-old, life-sized wooden statue of Christ kneeling with a cross on his shoulder. The statue is paraded through the streets of Manila city on Good Friday to commemorate his crucifixion and is said to bring miracles to anyone who touches it. The Black Nazarene procession on Good Friday attracts tens of thousands of mainly male barefoot devotees and is one of the largest gatherings in the Philippines. It has roots in Mexico, where a priest bought the statue before taking it to Manila in 1606. The statue has been at the Quiapo church since 1787.
Located in the Parish of San Juan Bautista in the bustling district of Quiapo in Manila, Quiapo Church is officially called the Basilica Minore of the Black Nazarene (Minor Basilica of the Black Nazarene) Prior to postwar renovations, the original church designed by Juan Arellano was considered artistically superior, particularly for its distinctive hammer-beam nave. Today, only the façade and dome recall that earlier design. Despite these changes, it remains one of the most important devotional centers in the country, rivaled closely by the nearby National Shrine of Our Mother of Perpetual Help, built in the 1950s. [Source: Marge C. Enriquez, Philippine Daily Inquirer, April 9, 2011]
The earliest church on the site — made of bamboo for the frame and nipa leaves as thatching — was built by missionaries in the mid 16th century. It and other churches that were building to replace it were burned down or destroyed in earthquakes. The present church was built between 1879 and 1889 In October 1928, the church caught fire again and church's wooden ceiling and sacristy were destroyed. In 1933, reconstruction of the church began and a dome and a second belfry was added to balance out the façade.
Built in the Baroque style, Quiapo Church's façade is distinctive with twisted columns on both levels. The Corinthian columns of the second level has a third of its shaft twisted near the base, while the upper portion has a smooth surface. The topmost portion of the four-storey belfries are rimmed with balustrades and decorated with huge scrolls. The tympanum of the pediment has a pair of chalice-shaped finials, and towards the end of the raking cornice, urn-like vases mark the end of the pediment. A quatrefoil window in the centre of the pediment was sealed up in the late 1980s and replaced with a relief of the crossed keys and tiara of the pope — a symbol of its status as a minor basilica.
Quiapo Church holds a novena every Friday, Quiapo Day, in honour of the Black Nazarene, and is attended by thousands of devotees. A note is sounded before the novena begins as the devotees to the Black Nazarene troop in and emit their strings of petitions. One can encounter the traditional folk Catholicism of Filipinos when they all climb the narrow flight of stairs to kiss the Señor's foot or wipe it with their handkerchiefs they use every time they visit. Daily hourly masses (all of which are celebrated in Tagalog language) are celebrated and devotees come from all walks of life, the noon services are today also broadcast on TV Maria and on Facebook Live.
Around Quiapo Church: Where Religion and the Marketplace Meet in the Philippines
The vicinity of the church is a popular area for peddlers. Some of them sell unsafe abortifacients, local gastric irritants and untested herbal folk (potions) remedies. Abortion is illegal in the Philippines, and individuals who cannot afford the surgical procedure resort to these vendors. The media often covers stories of dead foetuses being abandoned outside of the church's Blessed Sacrament chapel, a practise condemned by the Archdiocese of Manila. The fetuses covered by the Filipino TV media are often left anonymously wrapped in sack-cloth or plain boxes.
In 2010, Jofelle Tesorio wrote in Asia News Network, “Weekends, especially Sundays, are the busiest days in Quiapo, the nerve centre of faith in Manila. Filipinos come here for many reasons. Students praying to pass an exam, couples wanting to have a child, a young woman trying to get rid of an unwanted pregnancy, a mother praying for a sick child, a man hoping to go abroad, a forlorn lover wishing to let the pain away-they're just among the many who are lured by Quiapo, where miracles do happen for those who have faith. [Source: Jofelle Tesorio, Asia News Network, July 20, 2010 ~]
“Filipino religiosity is about faith and devotion to a supreme being represented by a mix of the orthodox and the surreal. Quiapo, which used to be the centre of commerce during the Spanish colonisation in the Philippines, is a juxtaposition of sorts. Here you see devotees overflowing from inside the old Quiapo Church. They kneel, hold hands and sing religious prayers. Men and women, young and old take turns in wiping the black Jesus Christ's statue (called the Black Nazarene) to ask for blessings. Around the church, the commerce of the masses prospers. Occult stalls line up the streets leading to the entrance of the church. Laminated pictures and images of Jesus Christ, Virgin Mary and other saints are displayed; rosaries, prayer books, crucifix and amulets for different purposes are, laid on stalls. ~
“Old women sell 'herbal medicines' guaranteed to induce abortion or to cure all kinds of sickness. Others sell coloured candles-each represents a specific prayer. Red is for love, yellow is for good spirit, pink is for purity, green is for money, blue, purple and indigo are for health, self-expression, peace and tranquility. Middle-aged fortune tellers read tarot cards for people who want to know their destiny. The fortune tellers also accept prayer requests when asked by devotees. Many customers are women who often ask about their future husbands and the prospect of marriage. Love potions made from different herbs and animal concoctions are also popular among women. Beggars, young and old, some of them crippled, catch attention with their sad look, arms stretched waiting for alms. ~
“Writer Godofredo Stuart described Quiapo as the commerce of religion and the commerce of the alternatives. Often, people who visit Quiapo are reminded of the Bible scene where Jesus Christ got furious upon seeing gambling stalls outside the House of God. But people don't only visit this old Manila town for their devotion. They come to hunt for bargain stuff. From pirated DVDs to DLSR cameras to car mugs to blasting stereos-everything is here. Hidalgo Street, is popular for cameras. Most professional photographers in the Philippines had, in one way or another, purchased a camera or a camera accessory here. They're not only cheap but cameras come with pieces of advice from sellers who know exactly what their clients need-whether they're professional or amateurs. There's always a camera for every person on this street. ~
San Sebastian — the Only Metal Church in Asia
The Basilica of San Sebastian (in Quiapo, Manila) was built in 1891 and is the only metal church in Asia. Designed in the Neo-Gothic style, it is often considered unique in the world. Because of its exceptional design and historical significance, it has been included in the tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage recognition. The church also holds a unique place in history for its resilience. While much of Manila was devastated during the battles of 1945 in Battle of Manila, San Sebastian Basilica remained largely intact. [Source: architecturalmoleskine.blogspot.jp, January 18, 2012]
The Basilica of San Sebastian is a remarkable revival of Gothic architecture and is regarded as the first prefabricated steel church in the world. Its components were manufactured in Belgium in the late 19th century and assembled on site by Belgian engineers, while its stained glass windows were produced in Germany. Historical accounts also suggest the involvement of Gustave Eiffel, famed for the Eiffel Tower, in aspects of its structural design. The church continues to be administered by the Augustinian Recollects.
The site where the church was built had a long history before the present structure. The first church built there in the 17th century was made of wood but was destroyed by fire in 1651. It was later rebuilt in brick, only to be ruined again by a powerful earthquake in 1859. These repeated disasters ultimately led to the decision to construct a more durable building—one that could better withstand both fire and seismic activity.
Unlike many colonial churches in the Philippines, San Sebastian does not have a large plaza or atrium in front of it. Instead, it occupies a prominent urban intersection, where its towering height and vertical design give it a commanding presence in the city skyline. Its symmetrical façade is defined by two slender towers flanking the main entrance, with a central rose window that draws attention to the intricate Gothic detailing. At the crossing of the nave and transept rises an octagonal dome, allowing natural light to filter into the interior and enhance its spiritual atmosphere.
The design was prepared by the firm associated with Gustave Eiffel in France. The steel components were manufactured in Binche, Belgium. The stained-glass windows were imported from Germany, crafted by the renowned Henri Oidtmann Company. These prefabricated parts were shipped to Manila and assembled on-site between 1888 and 1890, an impressive engineering feat completed in just two years before its inauguration in 1891.
Image Sources: Wikimedia Commons
Text Sources: Philippines Tourism websites, Philippines government websites, UNESCO, Wikipedia, Lonely Planet guides, New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, National Geographic, The New Yorker, Bloomberg, Reuters, Associated Press, AFP, Japan News, Yomiuri Shimbun, Compton's Encyclopedia and various books and other publications.
Updated in March 2026