PAHANG PROVINCE
Pahang is a sultanate and a federal state of Malaysia. The the third largest Malaysian state by area and ninth largest by population, it covers 36,137 square kilometers and has a population of about 1.45 million people and a population density of 40 people per square kilometer. The capital is Kuantan. [Source: Wikipedia]
Pahang means"The Abode of Tranquility". It occupies the basin of the Pahang River, and a stretch of the east coast as far south as Endau. Geographically located in the East Coast region of the Peninsular Malaysia, the state shares borders with the Malaysian states of Kelantan and Terengganu to the north, Perak, Selangor and Negeri Sembilan to the west, Johor to the south, while South China Sea is to the east. The Titiwangsa mountain range that forms a natural divider between the Peninsula's east and west coasts is spread along the north and south of the state, peaking at Mount Tahan, which is 2,187m high. Although two thirds of the state is covered by dense rain forest, its central plains are intersected by numerous rivers, and along the coast there is a 32-kilometer wide expanse of alluvial soil that includes the deltas and estuarine plains of the Kuantan, Pahang, Rompin, Endau, and Mersing rivers.
Pahang is divided into 11 administrative divisions called daerah (districts) — Pekan, Rompin, Maran, Temerloh, Jerantut, Bentong, Raub, Lipis, Cameron Highlands and Bera. The largest district is Jerantut, which is the main gateway to the Taman Negara national park. Pahang's capital and largest city, Kuantan, is the eighth largest urban agglomerations by population in Malaysia. The royal capital and the official seat of the Sultan of Pahang is located at Pekan. Pekan was also the old state capital which its name translates literally into 'the town', it was known historically as 'Inderapura'. Other major towns include Temerloh, Bentong and its hills resorts of Genting Highlands and Bukit Tinggi. The head of state is the Sultan of Pahang, while the head of government is the Menteri Besar.
Archaeological evidences revealed the existence of human habitation in the area that is today Pahang from as early as the paleolithic age. The early settlements gradually developed into an ancient maritime trading state by the 3rd century. In the 5th century, the Old Pahang sent envoys to the Liu Song court. During the time of Langkasuka, Srivijaya and Ligor, Pahang was one of the outlying dependencies. In the 15th century, the Pahang Sultanate became an autonomous kingdom within the Melaka Sultanate. Pahang entered into a dynastic union with Johor Empire in the early 17th century and later emerged as an autonomous kingdom in the late 18th century. Following the bloody Pahang Civil War that was concluded in 1863, the state under Tun Ahmad of the Bendahara dynasty, was eventually restored as a Sultanate in 1881. In 1895, Pahang became a British protectorate along with the states of Perak, Selangor and Negeri Sembilan.
Modern Pahang is an economically important state with main activities in services, manufacturing and agricultural sectors. As part of ECER, it is a key region for the manufacturing sector, with the local logistics support network serving as a hub for the entire east coast region of Peninsular Malaysia. Over the years, the state has attracted much investment, both local and foreign, in the mineral sector. Important mineral exports include iron ore, gold, tin and bauxite. Malaysia's substantial oil and natural gas fields lie offshore in the South China Sea. At one time, timber resources also brought much wealth to the state. Large-scale development projects have resulted in the clearing of hundreds of square miles of land for oil palm and rubber plantations.
Cameron Highlands
Cameron Highlands (240 kilometers north of Kuala Lumpur, five hours by car) is Malaysia's most well known and delightful hill station. Situated at a relatively cool elevation of 1,430 meters (4700 feet), it is comprised of rolling green hills, and has a pleasant year round climate. Many people like to come here to play golf. Among the Cameron Highlands attractions are jungle walks, tea plantations waterfalls and mountain lakes and streams. Most of the walks can be done in a few hours although there are some longer ones. Because of the elevation you are unlikely to see much wildlife, but there are lots of butterflies.
The Cameron Highlands are named after William Cameron, a Scotsman who discovered the high-altitude plateau where the town is located in 1885 and later helped develop it into a “hill station” for British colonial planters an administrators who used the highlands as a retreat from the heat and humidity of the lowlands. The most famous person associated with the Cameron Highlands is Jim Thompson, a wealthy Bangkok-based businessman who disappeared mysteriously here in 1967.
The Cameron Highlands is Malaysia's largest highland resort. There are hotels, resorts, bungalows and restaurants whose prices are generally in accordance with quality of service. There are also several hiking trails through the mountain forest. Flowers and excellent local produce, such as strawberries, can be purchased in the area, which is also known for numerous tea plantations that dot the hillsides. Having tea and scones is a popular activity (See Below).
Destinations for walks include lovely little villages, butterfly haunts, strawberry patches, honey bee farms, sprawling tea plantations and meals at the delightful Tudor-styled country inns. Bird-watching and trekking are also popular activities here. Cameron Highlands comprises a series of little townships that include Ringlet, Tanah Rata, Brinchang, Tringkap, Kuala Terla and Kampung Raja. What's more, it's easy to get to. Cameron Highlands lies less than an hour off the main North-South Highway, and is a pleasant, easy 3.5-hour drive from Kuala Lumpur. Contact: Cameron Highlands District Council, Tel: 605-4911455 / 49120
Getting There: By Car: Cameron Highlands is accessible via Tapah or the new highway at Simpang Pulai. If you are driving up from Kuala Lumpur, the Simpang Pulai exit takes an additional 45 minutes to reach the north of Tapah using the North-South Expressway. The ascent along this route is much smoother and less precarious than the route from Tapah. By Bus or Taxi Bus and Taxi services are available from the Puduraya Terminal in Kuala Lumpur and the journey will take you to Tanah Rata. Alternatively, take a train to Tapah and then continue your journey in a taxi or a bus.
1) Older Road to Cameron Highlands: According to ASIRT: “ The older, two-lane road to Cameron Highlands is narrow. Some sections are steep and winding with many blind curves. Sometimes fog reduces visibility. Avoid traveling on it at night.Road exits from the Kuala Lumpur-Ipoh Highway at Tapah. Taxis and buses in Tapah provide transport to the Highlands. 2) Simpang Pulai Highway, New Road to Cameron Highlands According to ASIRT: “Road is wider and less winding than the older road from Tapah. Some sections are steep. Be alert for sharp curves. Road exits the Kuala Lumpur-Ipoh Highway at Simpang Pulai. Truck traffic is often heavy for the first few kilometers; road surface may be rough in this section. Sometimes fog reduces visibility. [Source: Association for Safe International Road Travel (ASIRT), 2007]
Tea and Scones in the Cameron Highlands
One popular activity and tradition in the Cameron Highlands is to have tea and scones. This very English tradition dates back to the days when English colonial officers used this hill station as a cool getaway from the heat of the lowlands and brought their English customs with them. Marion Hume wrote in Time Magazine: “An employee of the Cameron Highlands Resort prepares a table for classic high tea service. The hotel also offers guided walks of the plantation and a includes a cold tea bath as part of its spa menu. [Source: Marion Hume, Time Magazine, April 7, 2008]
“It's 3.30pm in the Cameron Highlands, which rise some 5000 ft above sea level and are reached by a vertiginous four-hour drive winding up through the jungle from the Malaysian capital of Kuala Lumpur. The landscape up here seems otherworldly; with high ridges as far as the eye can see covered in strangely vivid, clipped bushes which at first resemble either a vast art installation by the likes of sculptor-in-nature Andy Goldsworthy or maybe a place J.R.R. Tolkien might have imagined for his orcs and elves.
Then the eye is drawn to a different silhouette atop one of the bright green slopes, which, as one gets closer, is revealed to be a table shaded by a vast parasol. Beneath it stands a waiter in a starched white uniform. Laid out on a damask cloth are bone china cups along with finger sandwiches and home-baked scones; all in all a spread that would not look out of place at the London Ritz. Behold the "afternoon tea picnic" prepared by the Cameron Highlands Resort Hotel and served on a working tea plantation. The hotel also offers tea planter guided walks and, before every treatment on its spa menu, a detoxifying, skin-softening bath in cold tea.”
Jungle Train
The Jungle Train refers to a daily train that travels through the jungles in the center of Peninsular Malaysia from Johor Bahru in the south to Kota Bharu in the north. Only a small part of the total route actually goes through the jungle, nonetheless; taking this train is a very adventurous way to travel across peninsular Malaysia. The train is known by various names — the East Coast Line, East Line or the East South Route. It runs from Tumpat, near the Thai border just north of Kota Bharu in Kelantan state to Gemas in Negeri Sembilan where it joins up with the west coast line which runs all the way from Singapore to Bangkok via Johor Bahru, Kuala Lumpur and Penang. The name 'East Coast Line' is just as misleading as the Jungle Train because once it leaves Tumpat it goes nowhere near the sea. Jungle Railway is closer to the truth because it passes through the sparsely populated and heavily forested interior of Peninsula Malaysia and skirts the Taman Negara and Kenong Rimba national parks. Good websites: Malaysia Traveller malaysia-traveller.com ; Nomadic Notes nomadicnotes.com
The jungle railway track was built in stages between 1910 and 1930 primarily to assist the tine mining and rubber industries. There is a marker along the tracks that pays tribute to a bull elephant that derailed a train to protect its herd. During the war long stretches of track were removed by the Japanese for use on their Thailand-Burma railway (the Death Railway). The journey from Gemas to Wakaf Bharu (the station for Kota Bharu) is about 500 kilometers and takes about nine hours and 15 minutes. It is possible to buy tickets at a railway station but it is probably best to book a ticket is by using KTMB (the Malaysian rail company)'s website. Sleepers are available. Make sure you at least get a car with air conditioning. Ticket prices are very reasonable. A one-way superior class ticket, for a nine hour journey, is only paid RM34. [Source: malaysia-traveller.com]
There is no restaurant car on the daytime jungle railway train but there may be one on the sleepers. Bring some food and drink on board to keep you going. At some stations hawkers sell food and pass it through the windows. They sell things like sliced guava, jambu air (a type of fruit) and quails' eggs. Most of the stations have shops selling food and drinks and there is enough ttime at each stop to quickly grab something. There are both sitting and squatting type toilets at the ends of each carriage. There were flat screen TVs at the ends of each carriage, showing cartoons, Thai gangster films, Malaysian comedy horror flicks and KTMB information. Sometimes the air conditioning goes out.
On the southern part of the route from Gemas to Kuala Kerau the terrain is fairly flat and it is mile after mile of palm oil and rubber estates. Heading north from Kuala Kerau to Kuala Lipis. The jungle closes in on the railway, which crosses some large muddy brown rivers in hilly terrian. The best scenery is between Kuala Lipis to Kuala Krai. There are wide rivers spectacular karst hills around the town of Gua Musang. From Kuala Krai to Wakaf Bahru it is mainly rice fields, kampungs and traditional rural and kampung life.
Taman Negara National Park
Taman Negara National Park (in the middle of peninsular Malaysia, accessible by the Jungle Train and boat) is the largest national park in peninsular Malaysia and one of the best places to experience a tropical rain forest environment in Asia. Among the wildlife found here are tigers, elephants, and rare Malaysian sun bears. During my five day stay in the park I didn't see these animals but I did see flying lizards, foot-long black centipedes, huge armies of ants, wild pigs, monkeys, hornbills, snakes, several kinds of deer and a small clawed otter. The best time to visit the park is in the dry season between March and September when the humidity is low and there is no rain or leeches. The best place to see wildlife is in the lowlands and the best time is early in the morning. Two friendly tapirs come for nightly feeding at the accommodation area. Snakes are often seen. The closest many people come to seeing an elephant is stumbling across some of their tracks in the muddy ground. You are more likely to see sun bears than tigers. Caution should be taken to avoid leech and insect bites during certain times of the year.
Taman Negara is the first and the oldest official protected area in Malaysia, and is also the country’s largest national park, covering some 434,300 hectares of primary virgin forest in the states of Pahang, Kelantan and Terengganu. Originally named King George V National Park, it was declared a protected area in 1938 by the Sultans of Kelantan, Pahang and Terengganu (during King George's Silver Jubilee). The park was renamed Taman Negara after the nation gained independence in 1957. Taman Negara is one of the oldest rainforests in the world, estimated at 130 million years old. The abundance and diversity of nature here is phenomenal, making it one of the world's most complex and rich ecosystems.
Taman Negara National Park was nominated to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014. According to UNESCO: “The National Park which is believed to have formed about 130 million years ago housed diverse terrestrial ecosystems which contain a vast number of floras and fauna many of which are endemic, rare, endangered, and vulnerable. The river valleys, main rivers and tributaries harbour many species of herpetofauna and freshwater fishes. These terrestrial and aquatic biodiversity have been undergoing both the ecological and biological processes resulting in richness of plant and animal communities, species and genetic diversity which are very significant to both the country and its people. [Source: UNESCO]
“Since its protection in 1938/1939, the area represents the largest habitat for in-situ conservation of both the terrestrial and freshwater river biodiversity in the country. As it contains many endemic plant and animal species and in particular many rare, vulnerable, endangered and threatened species of outstanding national, regional and universal value in term of science and conservation. Hence, it is deemed to be enlisted in the tentative list.” Contact: Department of Wildlife and National Parks: Address: kilometers 10, Jalan Cheras, 56100 Kuala Lumpur, Tel: 603-90752872, Fax: 603-90752873, Email: akp@wildlife.gov.my
Activities in Taman Negara National Park
Taman Negara has a fairly large park headquarters area with restaurants, dormitories and bungalows. The most popular activities at Taman Negara are river cruises and jungle trekking. There is canopy walk, offering a fantastic close up view of activity in the rainforest canopy. Observation hides are great way to observe wildlife. Simple huts built high above the ground allow guests to stay overnight to catch opportunities to observe animals in their natural habitat. Cave exploration is also available, either by boat or on foot. The best time to visit the park is during the dry season from February to September. But even then, rain is always a possibility. The peak tourist season is from April to August.
Christina Chin wrote in The Star: “Prices for each activity range from RM20 to RM40, although there are also combination packages you can sign up for... We took an hour-and-a-half boat-ride back to Kuala Tahan. En route, river rapid shooting and rafting promised a wet and wild adventure as the boat navigated through the seven rapids of Sungai Tembeling. A quick stop at the Orang Asli village can be arranged. The park is home to the nomadic Batek people, one of Malaysia’s aboriginal tribes. According to our friendly guide Ajai, there are several Batek villages in the park. They move everytime there’s a death in the village. “The headman and another villager will take the body and leave it in a tree for a week or two before returning to the secret location. If the body has not fallen down from the tree, it is a good omen,” he said. [Source: Christina Chin, The Star, May 5, 2012]
“The night walk on a specially constructed platform offered us a glimpse of creatures like the scorpion, tree frogs, spiders and serpents. Unlike the inner jungle trek, the night walk was a leisurely stroll.Like the night walk, the night safari through the palm oil plantation that bordered the jungle was among the least strenuous activities there. The best seat on the four-wheel-drive was definitely on the roof where four, including the guide, could enjoy a nice cool ride. Oh, and the canopy walk is a must-do. The 45-meter-high walkway on the top layer of the forest’s vegetation, is 510 meters long. If you don’t have a fear of heights and is not too busy hanging on for dear life, like yours truly, you’ll enjoy the world’s longest hanging bridge canopy walkway for the magnificent bird’s eye view of the plants (and sometimes animals) below.
“Another noteworthy attraction is Lata Berkoh, where cascading waterfalls make for a nice picnic spot and swim. The river flows from Gunung Tahan. On the boat ride and guided trek to Gua Telingga, visitors can see limestone outcrops, termite colonies, bats and snake racers. While some have hailed this as the best activity in the park, we had to give it a miss.”
Trekking in Taman Negara National Park
Near the headquarters are walks to waterfalls and rivers. For those who want to try something more ambitious, there is interesting seven day trek is to the top of 6,500-foot-high Gunung Tahan, the highest mountain in Peninsular Malaysia. Most of the treks is through rain forest and there are campsites along the war near water sources. At the top of the mountain there are several species of carnivorous pitcher plant and wonderful views. To see elephants and other large animals you will probably need to track them with a guide, many of whom are Negritos, a forest people who still live a pygmy-like hunting and gathering lifestyle in the park.
Christina Chin wrote in The Star: “While we didn’t attempt to scale Gunung Tahan — the highest peak in the peninsula — we did sign up for a 16 kilometers hike that took us into the inner jungle. The two-day hike included spending the night in Gua Kepayang Besar. On a dry day, the trek is relatively easy but when we went, it was a mud fest. It was a struggle to keep on our feet when lugging bottles of water and an overnight bag over mushy, shin-deep mud. Frustration set in when our shoes kept getting stuck in the soft ground. Leeches hell-bent on literally sucking the life out of us throughout the trail didn’t help. But sleeping in a cave is definitely worth the effort — even if your lavatory is just a small sandy patch a few meters away from where you sleep. Gua Kepayang Besar is big, as the name suggests, and can accommodate some 300 hikers at any given time. Porcupines come in for a peep at night, and at dawn, bats swoop home, indicating that it’s time for their human guests to take leave.An orang asli child playing at the settlement along the river bank. [Source: Christina Chin, The Star, May 5, 2012]
“Travel light, invest in a good pair of trekking shoes, pack a flashlight, insect repellent, rain coat, cash (there are no ATM machines but many activities to entice) and, most importantly of all, Minyak Cap Kapak (medicated oil) for the leeches. When it rains, the leech-infested mud takes on a life of its own and, if you are vertically-challenged like this writer, ploughing through the orange-brown goo is treacherous indeed. The most crucial of all these must-brings is definitely the Minyak Cap Kapak — especially if you are squeamish about pulling slippery bloodsuckers off your limbs. A few drops, and the icky vermin leaves the “buffet” — a trick Ajai shared with us. Even a little rain the night before will bring these slimy vampires out, so be warned: you are not alone, even if you can’t see them.
“There are some 10,000 species of flora and fauna in Taman Negara. The insects, ants and termites are huge — and apparently some are quite nutritious (a fellow hiker who nibbled on the abdomen of a huge ant, described it as a strong, lemony protein boost. Even breathing in the virgin jungle is an invigorating experience — the air is crisp throughout the day and, as cliched as it may sound, really makes you feel alive.”
Getting to Taman Negara National Park
Kuala Tembeling is the jumping off point for Taman Negara National Park. The park is generally reached via a scenic three-hour boat ride from Tembeling Halt, a stop on the Jungle Express train. A ticket for unreserved third class seat in a coach on the Jungle Train from the Thailand-Malaysia border cost about US$15. There is a marker along the tracks that pays tribute to a bull elephant that derailed a train to protect its herd. Kuala Tembeling is also accessible from Kuala Lumpur, Singapore or Kota Bharu (via Tumpat) by rail. Trains from these stations stop at Tembeling Halt, about half an hour's drive to the jetty at Kuala Tembeling. See Jungle Train above.
By Boat: The three-hour upriver boat trip from Kuala Tembeling to Kuala Tahan, the site of the aprk headquarters, run from 9:00am to 3:00pm daily, except for Fridays when the last afternoon departure is at 2.30pm. Mutiara Taman Negara Resort operates a speedboat service that takes only 45 minutes to reach Kuala Tahan. The speedboat leaves Kuala Tembeling at 10.30am and 1.30pm daily. The most accessible gateway to Taman Negara is either through Jerantut, a 3-hour trip from Kuala Lumpur. If you are driving a four-wheel drive vehicle, you can take the logger trail right up to Kuala Tahan, where you need to take a boat across the Sungai Tahan (Tahan River) to enter the park.
By Bus or Taxi: Jerantut-bound taxis are available at the Puduraya Bus Terminal in Kuala Lumpur. Alternatively, buses to Jerantut are found at the Jalan Tun Razak Bus Station in Kuala Lumpur. From there, hop on a local bus or taxi to Kuala Tembeling.
Christina Chin wrote in The Star: “Getting to Taman Negara is relatively fuss-free, with quite a number of tour operators offering packages that include accommodation, food, activities and transportation. While there are a few entry points, the most popular is from Kuala Tahan via the sleepy town of Jerantut and the Kuala Tembeling Jetty. The three-hour boat ride itself is an adventure through time as you cruise along the yellow teh tarik river, passing trees that wave their lush green foliage as you slowly doze off under the gaze of a warm tropical sun. Arriving at Kuala Tahan, you will be greeted by a row of floating restaurants. After docking at the nearby jetty, you acquire your entry permit (RM1) and photography license (RM5) from the park headquarters, and you are good to go. [Source: Christina Chin, The Star, May 5, 2012]
Geography, Geology and Ecosystems of Taman Negara National Park
According to UNESCO: “The total area of the National Park is 434,351 hectare or 4,343 square kilometers and straddles the three states, namely Pahang (2,477 square kilometers or 57 percent), Kelantan 1,043 square kilometers (24 percent) and Terengganu 853 square kilometers (19 percent). The National Park is considered as one of the oldest land mass in Peninsular Malaysia of more than 130 millions years old. Geographically its land is between 80-2,187 meters above sea level and about 57 percent of the total land are located in the range of 80-300 meters, 41 percent in the range of 300-1500 meters and the remainder or 1 percent is above 1,500 meters. [Source: UNESCO]
“The massif over 2,000 meters above sea level is known as Tahan Range and the tallest mountain in Peninsular Malaysia, Gunung (Mount) Tahan (2,187 meters) is the highest peak. There are three main river systems that originated from The National Park, namely Sungai Lebir, Sungai Terengganu and Sungai Tembeling that flow through the states of Kelantan, Terengganu and Pahang, respectively. The smaller rivers that are found in The National Park are Sungai Atok, Sungai Relau, Sungai Sat, Sungai Kenyam, Sungai Periang, Sungai Redap, Sungai Riul, Sungai Sepia, Sungai Siak, Sungai Tahan, Sungai Teku, Sungai Lebir and Sungai Tekak.
“Geologically, The National Park consists of diverse rock formations, mostly sedimentary rocks in the entire area with minor granitic rocks in the eastern part. The sedimentary rocks consists of sandstones, shales and limestones, tectonically belonging to the Central and Eastern Belts of Peninsular Malaysia. The Central and Eastern Belts are demarcated by the Lebir Fault. The Eastern part of The National Park belongs to The Eastern Belt which comprises of metamorphosed Carboniferous sedimentary rocks of Sungai Perlis Bed. This formation is uncomformably overlain by Permian Bewah Limestone and Jurassic-Cretaceous terrestrial deposits of Tembeling Group and Gagau Group. Gunung Tahan is situated on the Tahan Range which was formed by Jurassic-Cretaceous sandstones and quartzite. The Central Belt is represented by Permo-Triassic marine shales and limestone caves which includes Gua Telinga, Gua Daun Menari and Gua Peningat (730 meters above sea level), the highest limestone cave formation in Peninsular Malaysia. In addition to that the quarternary alluvium are found in the south-western part especially in the main river valleys.
“The geological history of Peninsular Malaysia could be traced at The National Park where the processes of the landform formations had been crafted by nature. There are three main mountain ridges, namely Teku, Gunung Tangga Dua Belas and Gunung Tahan which run towards North-west to South-east of The National Park. The formation of these ridges was due to the competent sandstones and quartzite of the Jurassic–Cretaceous Tembeling Group terrestrial deposits. These ridges were extended to the east through Gunung Penumpu and Gunung Gagau which consist of the Gagau Group. Both the Tembeling and Gagau Groups share similar rock sequence and geomorphological features with other Jurassic and Cretaceous red beds found in other parts of the world. Based on comparison with other red beds in China, the mountainous area between Gunung Tahan and Gagau plateau could be placed into danxia landforms of Ordos or Zhangshiya Types which are characterised by the presence of broad plateau, dissecting canyons and few isolated peaks. Both types of landscapes represent the youth stage of danxia landscape formation. The lowlying area on the periphery of The National Park is made up of finer sedimentary rocks. The unique limestone karsts of tropical terrain resulted from the desolution processes in the Tertiary Period include landforms such as mogotes and tower karsts with caves of various shapes and sizes.”
Plants in Taman Negara National Park
According to UNESCO: Biodiversity Flora: The National Park is considered as one of the richest area in term of plant species and genetic diversity and hosts more than 3,000 species of plants. The fern flora are well endowed with more than 246 species in 26 families such as Selaginella wildenowii, S. mirabilis, S. scabrida, S. selangoriensis, Lycopodium carolinianum, Asplenium nidus, Tectaria faurei, Hymenophyllum serrulatum, H. exsertum, Crypsinus enervis, C. stenophyllus, Grammitis peninsularis, Dipteris conjugata, Osmunda vachelii, Coryphopteris tahanensis. Among the ginger species such as Etligera littoralis, Zingiber spectabile and E. venusta and the latter is endemic to Peninsular Malaysia are also found. Etlingera littoralis, E. venusta, Zingiber spectabile, Z. kunstleri, Z. puberulum var. puberulum, Globba leucantha var. flavidula, Hornstedtia ophiuchus and Geostachys tahanensis are endemic to Peninsular Malaysia are found in the National Park. [Source: UNESCO]
“Among the unique species of higher plants found in the area are the endemic gymnosperms Agathis flavescens, Podocarpus deflexus, P. montana and Gnetum globosum and some pitcher plants species such as Nepenthes gracilima, N. macfarlanei, N. sanguinea. There are many endemic palms in the National Park such as the Tahan serdang (Livistona tahanensis), Tahan bertam (Eugeissona bracystachys), Iguanura wallichiana, Licuala glabra, L. kunstleri, Daemonorops angustifolia, D. leptopus, D. propinqua, D. macrophylla, Calamus polystachys, C. laxissimus, C. ridleyanus, C. sedens, Polidocarpus macrocarpus, Arenga obtusifolia, Orania sylvicola, Nenga macrocarpa, Pinanga polymorpha, P. paradoxa and Pogonotium ursinum. It is believed that more than 30 percent of the known palms in Malaysia are found in the area. Other noteworthy species include the endemic wild grapes (Pterisanthes glabra), and some rare species such as jewel orchid (Ludisia discolor), parasitic balanophores (Balanophora fungosa), Syzygium tekuensis, Pyrenaria pahangensis, Syzygium tahanensis, Adinandra angulata and the largest flower (Rafflesia cantleyi). In addition, more than 46 species of relatives of cultivated fruit trees were also recorded.
“Other notable endemic flora includes Ilex tahanensis, Cynanchum seimundii, the slender twining epiphyte (Hoya pusilla), Begonia longicaulis, B. rheifolia, B. reginula, B. Barbellata, Grewia laurifolia, Rhododendron seimundii, Henckelia atrosanguinea and H. floribunda (Gesneriaceae).Trees such as Diospyros tahanensis, Elaeocarpus floribundus, Ficus oreophila, Garcinia clusiifolia, Durio graveolens, Horsfieldia tomentosa are also endemic to Taman Negara. Jewel orchid (Ludisia discolor), a climbing citrus relative (Luvunga crassifolia), Burkillanthus malaccensis, Hodgsonia macrocarpa and parasitic plants of Thismia arachnites.”
Animals in Taman Negara National Park
According to UNESCO: “Biodiversity — Fauna: The National Park hosts the largest populations of animals that consist of about 150 species of mammals including Asian Elephant (Elephas maximus), Malayan Tiger (Panthera tigris jacksoni), Clouded Leopard (Neofelis nebulosa), Leopard Cat (Prionailurus bengalensis), Flat-headed Cat (Prionailurus planiceps), Asian Golden Cat (Catopuma temminckii), Malayan Gaur (Bos gaurus hubbacki), Malayan tapir (Tapirus indicus), Wild Boar (Sus scrofa), Binturong (Arctictis binturong), Mengkira (Martes flavigula), Barking Deer (Munctiacus muntjak), Sambar Deer (Rusa unicolor), Mouse Deer (Tragulus javanicus), Malayan Sun Bear (Helarctos malayanus), Serow (Capricornis sumatraensis), Asiatic Wild Dog (Cuon alpinus), Siamang (Symphalangus syndactylus), White-handed Gibbon (Hylobates lar), Dusky Leaf Monkey (Trachypithecus obscurus), Banded-leaf Monkey (Presbytis melalophos) and more than 80 species of bats and 30 species of rodents. Notable small mammals includeWhite-toothed Shrew (Crocidura fuliginosa), Smoky Flying Squirrel (Pteromyscus pulverulentus) andOriental Small-clawed Otter (Amblonyx cinereus). Taman Negara is one of the Important Bird Areas (IBA) in Malaysia.
“A total of 479 species of birds has been recorded excluding the migrant species, among them are Hill Prinia (Prinia atrogularis), Masked Finfoot (Heliopais personata), Crested Argus (Rheinardia ocellata), Mountain Peacock Pheasant (Polyplectron inopinatum), White-Bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster), Crested Serpent Eagle (Spilornis cheela), Changeable Hawk Eagle (Spizaetus cirrhatus), Crestless Firebacked Pheasant (Lophura erythrophthalma), Pink-necked Green Pigeon (Treron vernans), Greater Yellownape (Picus flavinucha), Long-tailed Parakeet (Psittacula longicauda), Buff-necked Woodpecker (Meiglyptes tukki), Common Koel (Eudynamys scolopacea), Malaysian Hawk Cuckoo (Hierococcyx fugax), Javan Frogmouth (Batrachostomus javensis), Banded Kingfisher (Lacedo pulchella), White throated Kingfisher (Halcyon smyrnensis), Rufous backed Kingfisher (Ceyx rufidorsa, Black Hornbill (Anthracoceros malayanus), Whreated Hornbill (Aceros undulatus), White crowned Hornbill (Aceros comatus), Southern Pied Hornbill (Anthracoceros convexus), Rhinoceros Hornbill (Buceros rhinoceros), Great Hornbill (Buceros bicornis), Helmeted Hornbill (Buceros vigil), Malaysian Hill-Partridge (Arborophila campbelli), Gold-whiskered Barbet (Megalaima chrysopogon), Fire-tufted Barbet (Psilopogon pyrolophus), Green-billed Malkoha (Phaenicophaeus tristis), Rufous-winged Philentoma (Philentoma pyrhopterum), Spectacled Bulbul (Pycnonotus erythropthalmos). One notable migratory species, the can be found along the rivers.
“Among the notable reptilian fauna are Speckle-bellied Keelback Snake (Rhabdophis chrysargus), Jasper Cat Snake (Boiga jaspidea), Green Crested Lizard (Bronchocela cristatella), East Indian Brown Mabuya (Eutropis multifasciata), Marbled Slender-toed Gecko (Cyrtodactylus quadrivirgatus), Impressed Tortoise (Manouria impressa), Spiny Terrapin (Heosemys spinosa), Malayan Flat-shelled Turtle (Notochelys platynota), Asian Brown Tortoise (Manouria emys). Among the most notable amphibian fauna include Bongao Tree Frog (Polypedates macrotis), Spotted Litter Frog (Leptobrachium hendricksoni), Black Caecilian (Ichthyophis monochrous),an endemic Leptobrachium heterops, Minute Narrow mouthed Frog (Calluella minuta) andLatiff’s Torrent-dwelling Toad (Ansonia latiffi) two new endemic species to Peninsular Malaysia. Malayan Horned Frog (Megophrys nasuta), Rana chlaconota, Hose’s Rock Frog (Rana hosii).
“A total of 53 species of fresh water fishes has also been recorded, including Malayan Mahseer (Tor tambroides), Copper Mahseer (Neolissochilus hexagonolepis), Jungle Perch (Hampala macrolepidota), Torrent Barb (Mystacoleucus marginatus), Sultan Fish (Leptobarbus hoevenii) and Kerai (Puntius halei). In addition, more than 57 species of amphibians, 67 species of snakes including some uncommon species such as Blunthead Slug Snake (Aplopeltura boa), Malayan Slug Snake (Asthenodipsas malaccanus) Rainbow Tree Snake (Gonyphis margaritatus) Scarce Wolf Snake Mountain Wolf Snake (Lycodon butleri) Red Mountain keelback (Amphiesma sanguineum) Ashy Pit Viper (Trimeresurus puniceus). In addition, a Tahan Bird Eating Spider (Selenocosmia tahanensis) which belongs to Theraphosidae and has been recorded once at Gunung Tahan in 1924.”
Kenong Rimba Park
Kenong Rimba Park (southwest of Taman Negara) covers an area of 121 square kilometers in the Kenong Valley and features some magnificent limestone caves. The crystal clear waters that flow through the park and high cascading waterfalls are exotic backdrops to a large array of flora and fauna.Kenong Rimba Park is dominated by lowland forests and riverine vegetation. Epiphytic vegetation such as ferns & wild orchids are abundant here, also lofty tualang tree (kompassia excelsa). Also in abundance is the gigantic ficus tree or pokok ara, which is popularly featured in many local folklore, proverbs and rhymes. A profusion of pink and white water lilies floating on scattered water bodies around the park adds to the enchantment.
Elephants, tapirs, leopards and deers are found in small numbers. Smaller mammals such as porcupines, mousedeers, flying foxes, and river otters are easier to notice along the jungle trails. However, like in any other parts of the Tropical Rain Forest, these animals are easier heard than sighted, all due to the very dense vegetation. Kenong Rimba Park is a haven to bird watchers. The park is home to about 200 species of wild birds. Murai Batu (copsuchus malabaricus) is prized by bird lovers for their singing ability. Occasionally, hornbills and fishing eagles make their presence felt.
Each limestone cave is situated about half an hour's trek from each other. The most striking is the Gua Batu Tinggi, which resembles a dug-out boat. The Sungai Kenong River passes though this cave. Local folklore has it that the cave was formed when a boat carrying the Kings messenger from Pekan was turned into stone. This cave is approximately 122 to 152 meters above sea level. Here you can find a variety of plant life that includes orchids, fig trees and epiphytes. It is located near other caves, which include Gua Harimau, Gua Hijau, Gua Buta, Gua Batu Tangkup and Gua Batu Tangga. A qualified and registered guide must accompany any visitor entering the park. They are responsible for submitting visitors' registration forms to the Kuala Lipis District Forest Office prior to entering the park.
Getting There: By Train: The jump-off town to Kenong Rimba Park is Kuala Lipis. The railway links it to Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. The best way to the forest park is by train to the Batu 9 (Mile 9) station. By Road: You can go by road to the Lipis Railway Station, about 3 hours' drive from Kuala Lumpur, and then on from there to the Batu 9 (Mile 9) station. From there, it's a short 5-minute walk to the Sungai Jelai jetty for a 20-minute boat ride downstream to Tanjung Kiara Jetty at Sungai Kesong. The journey into the park starts from the jetty. By River: You could also take a boat from Kuala Lipis jetty to Tanjung Kiara or take the trunk road on a four-wheel drive to Felda Kechau Sembilan before passing through Kampong Matok. Contact: Kuala Lipis District Forest Office: Address: Government Office Complex. 27200 Kuala Lipis, Pahang, Tel: 09-312 1273/ 4106, Fax: 609-312 3745
Kuala Gandah Elephant Orphanage Sanctuary
Kuala Gandah Elephant Orphanage Sanctuary, Pahang is a rare and fantastic opportunity to get up close to endemic Malaysian elephants. This truly unique Elephant Orphanage of Kuala Gandah in Pahang will give you a very rare opportunity to learn about these displaced gentle giants.Get the chance to ride them through the jungle, with the help of an elephant guide, or mahout. For the brave and adventurous, there are opportunities to take the elephants down to the river and help give them a bath! There really is no better opportunity than this to get in touch with these grey giants.
It is estimated that there are only 1,200 wild Asian Elephants, also known as Elephus Maximus, left in Malaysia and this is the only conservation centre set up to relocate these displaced pachyderms. The elephants here have been rescued from all over Peninsula Malaysia, providing them a safe sanctuary in the wild.
Getting There: By Road: From Kuala Lumpur, take the Karak Highway heading towards Lancang District, passing the Karak Village along the way. Once in Lancang, you should be able to see a BP gas station by the side of the road. Turn left into the road before the gas station, then follow the ample road signs along the way and head towards Bolok. You will pass an Orang Asli settlement and at the end of that road, you will reach the Kuala Gandah Elephant Orphanage Sanctuary. The journey takes between 2 to 2 1/2 hours and is 160 kilometers from Kuala Lumpur. Contact: National Elephant Conservation Centre, Address : Department of Wildlife and National Parks, Kuala Gandah, 28500 Lanchang, Pahang Darul Makmur., Tel: 609-279-0391, Fax: 609-279-0398
Endau Rompin National Park
Endau Rompin (straddling the border of Johor and Pahang states) is the second largest national park in Peninsular after Taman Negara. It covers an area of approximately 80,000 hectares, encompassing the watershed of the rivers Endau and Rompin, from which its name is derived. The park is home to a vast species of birds, mammals, frogs, insects and exotic varieties of orchids, herbs, medicinal plants and trees. It seems that every time a scientific expedition returns from Endau Rompin, they discover a new species!
Endau-Rompin National Park is the home of 80 endangered Sumatran rhinoceros, Malayan honey bear and the black-and-white tapir. On treks into the jungle and rain forest trekkers often see leaf monkeys, long-tail macaques, and white- deer, handed gibbons and occasionally catch glimpses of elephants, tapirs and rarely a tiger or leopard. Adventure lovers trek up rivers through rapids to waterfalls.
Getting There: By Car or Taxi: Go along the North-South Expressway and turn off at Ayer Hitam. From Ayer Hitam take the Kluang Jemaluang road (Route 50) and continue from there to a turn-off 7 kilometers east of Kahang town (look for the Endau Rompin National Park sign partly hidden amongst 15 other signs on the signboard). From this turn-off, a four- wheel drive will take you on a 56 kilometers rough terrain drive through palm-oil plantations and then onto old logging roads and boggy tracks before arriving at Kampung Peta, the park staging point. This will take 2 hours. Contact: National Parks (Johor) Corporation: Address: JKR 475, Bukit Timbalan, Johor, Malaysia, Tel: 607-223 7471, Fax: 607-223 1033
Image Sources: Wikimedia Commons,
Text Sources: Malaysia Tourism websites, Malaysia government websites, UNESCO, Wikipedia, Lonely Planet guides, New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, National Geographic, The New Yorker, Bloomberg, Reuters, Associated Press, AFP, Japan News, Yomiuri Shimbun, Compton's Encyclopedia and various books and other publications.
Updated in August 2020