GETTING TO AND TRAVELING AROUND TIMOR-LESTE

GETTING TO TIMOR-LESTE BY AIR

Visitors traveling to Timor-Leste must first go to Singapore, Darwin, Australia, or Bali (Denpasar), with Bali having the most options. Dili in Timor-Leste is just over an hour away from Darwin by plane and two hours from Bali. The airlines that fly to Timor-Leste are Sriwijaya Air (from Bali), Citilink (from Bali), Air Timor (from Singapore and Kupang, Timor, Indonesia) and Air North (from Darwin). If you are going via Bali, it is a good idea to arrive the day before or with plenty of time between flights. If you arrive on different carrier to Bali than the carrier you are taking to Dili — which is usually the case — and you are late you risk losing your relatively expensive ticket to Timor-Leste.

Air North (www.airnorth.com.au) Usually flies daily between Dili and Darwin (Australia). There's no office in Dili; book online. Air Timor The national airline charters Druk air (the airline of Bhutan) planes between Dili and Singapore on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Citilink Flies Jakarta to Dili and Denpasar (Bali) to Dili daily. Sriwijaya Air Flies daily between Dili and Denpasar (Bali). Merpati Airlines used to fly between Denpasar (Bali) but doesn’t anymore

Sriwijaya Air uses SJ270Boeing 737-800 planes. The nonstop flight leaves Bali at 10:45 and arrives in Dili at 13:45 and leaves Dili at 14:35 and arrives in Bali at 15:40 The roundtrip fare in about $650.
Citilink’s nonstop flight leaves Bali at 9:25 and arrives in Dili at 12:2 and leaves Dili at 13:20 and arrives in Bali at 14:10 The roundtrip fare in about $680.
Air North operates one flight daily between Darwin and Dili that departs Darwin at 5.45am. The roundtrip flight costs about US$800.

Airport in Dili, Timor-Leste

Presidente Nicolau Lobato International Airport (DIL IATA), formerly known as Comoro Airport, is the main international airport of Dili and is the only international airport in Timor-Leste. It is located 6 kilometers west of Dili in the Comoro neighborhood. It is west of the Comoro River that runs north to the sea.

The airport is relatively small. The runway is only 1,850 meters (approximately 6,000 feet) by 30 meters. There is no radar capability or permanent runway lighting, allowing only daylight operations. Planes as large as Boeing 757s have landed, but not on a regular basis due to weight and hard braking considerations. The airport includes facilities to service and fuel helicopters. [Source: Timor-Leste 2019 Crime & Safety Report, OSAC, Overseas Security Advisory Council, Bureau of Diplomatic Security, March 2019]

The passenger terminal is a single, one-story building on the south side of the airport. There is a Distinguished Visitor's lounge directly east of the general passenger terminal. Timor-Leste Customs and Immigration checkpoints are in the main passenger terminal. If are getting a Visa on Arrival (VOA), go to the VOA counters at the end of the path from the aircraft before going to the immigration booths. A standard 30-day tourist/business VOA is US$30, preferably in exact change. Bring U.S. dollars as there are no ATMs airside and the landside ATM is not always working. You need to complete an arrival card and customs card. All bags are x-rayed. Customs staff are friendly but like to check lots of bags, mostly looking for taxable goods.

There's a US$10 departure tax at the airport. When departing, remember to pay the US$10 exit tax, which is collected as you check in, and complete the departure card (which does not need to have the same number as your arrival card - if check-in staff don't give you one, just get one from the poles in the middle). After checking in, you can wait at the café outside the terminal or even go to the Burger King next door. The airport is small and immigration and security are fast, so you only need 5-10 minutes to get through to the departure gates, where there are some duty free shops but no food shops.

Airport Transportation: Dili’s Presidente Nicolau Lobato International Airport is a 10-minute drive from town. A taxi there is US$10. Microlets charge 25cv (US$0.25) from the main road (600m from the airport) into town. You can also prearrange a transfer with your accommodation or book the 24-hour Flybus airport shuttle (US$10 per person; TelTel: (+670) 7750 8585). If you take a yellow taxi negotiate the fare, typically US$10 before setting off.

Getting to Timor-Leste by Land: Entry Formalities

All nationalities, with exception of Portuguese and Indonesians, must obtain a Visa Application Authorization before arriving at the land border post. Apply in person at a Timor-Leste Embassy or Consulate (there are one in Denpasar and Kupang, see Below) or online at the Ministry of Immigration website (allowing around 10 working days to receive a printable authorization). Then present this document and the US$30 fee to Immigration at the border crossing. For more visa information: www.migracao.gov.tl

The main land border crossing with Indonesia is at Mota'ain (or Motain), 115 kilometers (71 miles) west of Dili. The nearest East Timorese town is Batugade, 3-4 kilometers away. The nearest Indonesian town of consequence is the West Timorese town of Atambua. There are also land border crossings at Salele (near Suai) on the south coast, and into Oecussi at Bobometo (Napan on the Indonesian side) and Wini on the north-east coast of Oecussi. [Source: Wikiyoyage]

In August 2015, a new visa waiver rule for passport holders of countries in the Schengen Agreement (Austria, Belgium, the Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Italy, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden and Switzerland) meant that those travelers can enter Timor-Leste without a visa at any entry point, and travelers at that time reported no problems at the Batugade border point.

See the Timor-Leste Immigration Department's Tourist Visa link for details on how to apply for a "visa application authorisation" (which may be obtained via email before travel) or how to apply for a visa at an embassy or consulate should you want to enter at a land border crossing. The consulate in Kupang is located at Jl. Eltari II, Kupang, NTT, Tel: + 62 8133 9367 558, Tel: +62 8133 9137 755. There is also the consulate general Denpasar (+62 8133 855 8950, Tel: +62 812 831 9741)

Going the other direction from Timor-Leste to Timor presents other problems. Even though people of many nationalities can get Indonesian visas-on-arrival when flying into Bali or other Indonesian airports, they cannot get them when traveling from East Timor to West Timor by land, and are therefore required to have visas in advance. Getting a visa at the Indonesian Embassy in Dili is possible; it takes 3 working days to issue a 30-day tourist visa and it costs US$45. Standard Index B-211 60-day tourist visas seem to be issued on a case by case basis and obtaining one is not guaranteed.

Getting to Timor-Leste by Bus

Journeying over land between West Timor and Timor-Leste, there are daily air-conditioned minibus services linking the capitals of Kupang and Dili via the border crossing near Batugade. It is an arduous 12 hour trip through beautiful rolling hill country and along the scenic coastline west of Dili.

There are many land travel minibus services to cater for individuals or groups travel from Dili to Kupang (West Timor) and return. Timor Travel, Paradise Travel, Leste Oeste Travel are few of the minibus companies that provide travel services to several different destinations along the Dili-Kupang route at a very affordable prices.

Non-direct buses: From Dili, catch a bus to the border (US$3, three hours). Once you get off the bus, go through East Timorese customs and immigration, walk across the border into Indonesia, go through Indonesian immigration and catch another bus for your onward journey to Atambua or Kupang. From Atambua, regular Microlets (vans) or ojeks (motorcycle taxis) run to the border at Mota'ain Land Border for 15,000-20,000 Indonesian rupiah. Once you cleared immigrations on both sides, you can ask for the bus in the parking lots for a seat to Dili, US$10 per person (as of Dec 2018).

Getting to Timor-Leste by Boat

There are no regular international passenger ferries servicing East Timor. There are regular barge services for vehicles and goods from Darwin in Australia, Surabaya and Bali in Indonesia. Recreational vessels often visit Dili harbour. A few large passenger cruise ships are starting to ply Timorese waters.

For those arriving by sea, Tourism and Business Visas (US$30 for 30 days stay) can be gained on arrival at the Sea Port in central Dili with presentation of valid passports. For more visa information: www.migracao.gov.tl

Dili is no longer a port of call for Indonesia's Pelni ships. There are also no regular boats to Australia. (For any traveller interested in going by cargo ship to Darwin as part of an overland round the world trip, there are only two shipping companies that go to Australia (ANL and Swire) and who will not, under any circumstances, take on paying passengers. This is not an issue with insurance or security, simply that the boat owners (separate from the shipping) have dictated that no passengers are allowed (June 2016). [Source: Wikivoyage]

Transportation in Timor-Leste

Taxis, small buses, and mini-vans provide public transportation in Dili and elsewhere. Public transportation is generally overcrowded, uncomfortable, and below international safety standards. Public transport is generally inadvisable and usually unavailable after dark, although taxis are occasionally available at select locations. There are no trains; air travel is very limited.

Microlets (vans converted to take passengers) ply their fixed routes, for example from near the Mercado Municipal to Comoro, Becora and other suburbs of Dili and even further. They cost 25 cents per ride. You flag one down, and when you reach your destination, just rap a coin against the metal to signal a stop request, and pay the driver after exiting. You can see maps and information about Microlets at http://www.dilimicrolets.com/

The small colourful microlets operate on specified set routes around Dili, Baucau and other main towns. In Dili the microlets are numbered and each travels a set route. To get on hail from the roadside and to disembark tap your coin on the metal handrail and the driver will stop. Avoid using shared-ride “microlet” buses, as they are often over-crowded and are frequently involved in accidents. Microlets and taxis drive recklessly and often do not adhere to traffic laws.

Ornate, vividly painted buses (usually crowded) provide transport daily on the main routes from Dili to Maliana, Suai, and via Baucau to Viqueque and Lospalos. Schedules and trip times vary depending on the number of stops and road conditions. In Dili, bus departure points are on the city outskirts – Becora for eastern districts, Taibessi central and southern and Tasi Tolu western. Rugged routes to more isolated locations from these centres are covered by smaller microlets (mini-buses), bemos (vans) and anggunas (trucks carrying passengers and other belongings on the back) and in some cases ojeks – motorcycle taxis which take pillion passengers. On Atauro Island getting around usually involves hiring a tuktuk (auto rickshaw) for travel between Beloi and Vila-Maumeta, a four wheel drive vehicle for accessing Anartutu up in the mountains, or a boat for journeying around the coast.

Anneli Knight wrote in The Guardian: “ My No 1 piece of advice for visiting Timor-Leste is to employ a driver and guide to enhance your journey with local knowledge – this costs about US$15 to US$20 a day. There are few, if any, street signs outside Dili, and few locals in the regions speak English. Instead the lingua franca is Tetum, an Austronesian language influenced by Portuguese. Our small dental team benefited from the knowledge of Aida, a local dental auxiliary who was constantly jumping from the troop carrier to ask bystanders for directions as we headed deeper into the hills. There are few, if any, street signs outside the capital, Dili Ministry of Tourism, Rua Martires de Patria, Farol, Dili -Tel: (+670) 3311 499. [Source: Anneli Knight, The Guardian, August 5, 2015]

Taxis in Dili

Taxis are a frequent sight on Dili’s roads but typically only operate during daylight hours. City fares vary between US$2-5 depending on the distance. Locals generally pay less than foreigners. Flag them down from the roadside or ask your accommodation to organise one for you. Those that are available in the evenings charge higher rates and have to be contacted by phone.

With the yellow taxis, fares need to be negotiated prior to travel. In contrast the blue taxis provide a more consistent quality service, use taxi meters and are available in the evenings and early mornings if rung. An airport minibus shuttle service is another option if travelling between the airport and Dili (must be pre-booked). Further journeys, such as to Areia Branca beach and Cape Fatucama will cost more ($5 each way and you might need to arrange for the taxi to wait for you).

Travelers using local taxis should always negotiate the fare before getting in the vehicle. In the past few years, a new company operated by Corrotrans has established a dispatched and metered cab service, but it only services Dili. Do not to enter an occupied taxi, and do not allow taxis to pick up additional passengers. There have been reported incidents of taxi drivers robbing and/or sexually groping passengers. Yellow taxis do not operate on meters and passengers are advised to negotiate fares before getting in to avoid disagreements about fares, which have occasionally led to hostilities. [Source: Timor-Leste 2019 Crime & Safety Report, OSAC, Overseas Security Advisory Council, Bureau of Diplomatic Security, March 2019]

The Taxi Operators in Dili are: Night Taxis, Yellow Taxis, Corrotrans Blue Taxism Fly Bus Shuttle. According to Wikivoyage: As evening approaches, the price will go up (around US$5 for a medium trip). After dark, most of the taxis disappear. However, there are usually ones waiting outside expat bars, which will ask at least US$10, even for short trips. You can also call a night service (if you can find a current number for one). You can also try getting your hotel to arrange a taxi for a night out or ask taxi drivers that you meet whether they work at night and, if so, get their number. Either way, it will probably cost at least US$10 for any trip after dark. Try to have exact change for taxis. [Source: Wikivoyage]

“The metered Blue Taxi service is much cleaner and more reliable than the yellow taxis, and they can be booked by phone on 331 1110 or 7742 7777. However, the metered fares are roughly double the yellow taxis - e.g. Lecidere to Timor Plaza is US$6 compared to US$3 (or even less if you bargain hard) for a yellow taxi. Blue taxis may be the most useful at night. There are occasional reports of taxis attempting to get extortionate fares from clueless passengers. This risk has reduced at the airport; however, there were recent reports of this being done to cruise ship visitors. Make sure you know a reasonable fare for where you want to go and stick to it. Nowhere within city limits should cost more than US$5-10.

Buses in Timor-Leste

Buses, mostly of the small buses like those found on Indonesian islands, run to most parts of Timor-Leste. Main cities and towns like Dili, Baucau, Maliana, Los Palos and Suai are well linked to other destinations. Indonesian-style bemos (vans) and Microlets (minibuses) — legacies of 24 years of Indonesian rule — run from these cities to nearby villages. Most departures take place very early in the morning and drivers have a tendency of doing keliling (Indonesian for "going round") where they spend considerable time combing the streets and scouting for passengers before actually departing. Fares are about US$2 or US$3 for journeys over 100 km. For example, Dili-Baucau (123 kilometers (76 miles)) costs US$2 while Dili-Mota'ain (115 kilometers (71 miles)) costs US$3. [Source: Wikiyoyage]

Ornate, vividly painted buses provide transport daily on the main routes from Dili to Maliana, Suai, and via Baucau to Viqueque and Lospalos. They are often very crowded. Schedules and trip times vary depending on the number of stops and road conditions. In Dili, bus departure points are on the city outskirts – Becora for eastern districts, Taibessi central and southern and Tasi Tolu western.

West of Dili: Buses leave for Batugade and the Indonesian border at Mota'ain. US$3. The journey is about 3 hours. Note that you cannot get an Indonesian visa at the border. If you have to get one in Dili, you might have to queue at the Indonesian embassy as early as 03:00. Buses also go to Maliana and Ermera.

East of Dili: Several buses leave for Baucau early in the morning from Rua Quinze de Outubro just south of the stadium near the Mercado Municipal roundabout. US$2, 3 hours. These buses can also be caught at Becora, the suburb to the east of Dili.

Microlets in Timor-Leste

Microlets (vans converted to take passengers) ply their fixed routes, for example from near the Mercado Municipal to Comoro, Becora and other suburbs of Dili and even further. They cost 25 cents per ride. You flag one down, and when you reach your destination, just rap a coin against the metal to signal a stop request, and pay the driver after exiting. You can see maps and information about Microlets at http://www.dilimicrolets.com/

The small colourful microlets operate on specified set routes around Dili, Baucau and other main towns. In Dili the microlets are numbered and each travels a set route. To get on hail from the roadside and to disembark tap your coin on the metal handrail and the driver will stop. Avoid using shared-ride “microlet” buses, as they are often over-crowded and are frequently involved in accidents. Microlets and taxis drive recklessly and often do not adhere to traffic laws.

Some microlets run regular routes between towns, villages and cities. As a rule they service more off-the-beaten destinations than buses and are used by travelers to reached off-the-beaten path sights. Sometimes they are fast and comfortable. In some rural areas, however, they can be crowded and slow if a lot of stops are made and a lot of people are squeezed in.

While buses often ply the main routes, rugged routes to more isolated locations from these centres are covered by microlets, bemos (vans) and anggunas (trucks carrying passengers and other belongings on the back) and in some cases ojeks – motorcycle taxis which take pillion passengers. Microlets can be hailed from the side of the road, but often they don't stop because they are full. The fares are set according to distance. It is not necessary to bargain unless you are hiring a vehicle. Shared vehicles leave on a when full basis, and you can get off where off ever you want just let the driver or his assistant know.

Air Travel within Timor-Leste

Although there are airports in Baucau, Suai and Oecussi, there is not a regular domestic air service yet within East Timor. There are small MAF (Missionary Aviation Fellowship) planes that can be chartered to fly to these destinations, which are normally utilised for medical evacuations.

Timor-Leste is a compact, mountainous country and flying greatly reduces travel time to Atauro, Oecusse, Suai, Maliana, Baucau, Lospalos and Same. ZEESM, a Government Authority, operates a small aircraft between Dili and Pante Macassar, Oecusse on a scheduled daily basis (Thursday excluded). ZEESM can also arrange flight charters on this route and to other municipalities.

MAF operates from the Dili International Airport using small aircraft (up to 7 passengers). While they primarily run a medical evacuation service for Timorese living in the districts, their planes can be chartered for tourism flights to Atauro and other destinations.

Roads, Road Conditions and Safety in Timor-Leste

The roads between the major cities are paved, but those in mountains, forests and rural areas are primarily dirt and gravel. Some of them are in poor condition, especially during times of heavy rain when they may become impassable. Main thoroughfares in Dili are in relatively good condition, but road conditions deteriorate in residential neighborhoods. Further out from Dili, the route is likely to be more hazardous. The roads outside of the Dili district are especially perilous because of mountainous terrain and poor road maintenance. During the rainy season (October-March), driving can be very hazardous due to flash flooding. Recent construction projects exacerbate the road conditions leading out of Dili. Trips take longer and result in greater wear and tear on vehicles. [Source: Timor-Leste 2019 Crime & Safety Report, OSAC, Overseas Security Advisory Council, Bureau of Diplomatic Security, March 2019]

Roads are often poorly maintained and four-wheel drive may be required in some areas. Non-existent lighting and poor road conditions make driving at night hazardous. In Dili, vehicles share the streets with vendors, pedestrians and livestock. Many cars and especially motorcycles operate at night without lights. During the rainy season, travel on all cross-island roadways should be considered to be risky. Caution is advised when traveling on the cross-island roadways in the mountain areas of Aileu, Ermera, Manatuto, Ainaro and Manufahi provinces. In December 2003, rain showers severely damaged several cross-island roadways, and several UN vehicles had to be airlifted out of the area south of Aileu due to landslides and roadway damage. [Source: U.S. State Department, Consular Information Sheet : January 18, 2007]

Some roads are notorious with their blind corners and pot-holes. In general the north coast road is in good condition following a major upgrade from the Batugade border to Lospalos in the east, but the roads inland crossing the mountains to the south coast are variable. Road cross streams. Vehicles sometimes get stuck and have to be rescued by passing vehicles.

Dili is well linked by road from the Indonesian border at Mota'ain, near Batugade, which lies about 115 kilometers west. A reasonably good road also links Dili with Baucau, East Timor's second largest city 123 kilometers west. The road continues east to Los Palos and Tutuala. Southwards, a road climbs up the mountains which run the length of the island of Timor, passing the hill town of Maubisse, on the way to the southern coast. Road access to Hato Builico (Mt Ramelau) and Valu (Jaco Island) requires a strong four wheel drive. While a standard car is fine for Dili and outskirts, hiring a four wheel drive is still definitely needed for travel further afield. [Source: Wikiyoyage]

Driving in Timor-Leste

Driving in Timor-Leste is on the left side of the road (different from United States and the same as Britain) and most vehicles use right-hand drive. Distances and speeds are measured in kilometers and kilometers per hour. Driving is not that difficult in Timor-Leste when the raods are good as there are not really that many vehicles on the road. Even though the driving laws in Timor-Leste are more or less the same as those in the U.S. people don't necessarily obey them, so drive defensively. If you are driving yourself, make sure your car has a spare tire, jack, spare battery water, an extra fan belt and an emergency triangle.

It is recommended when hiring a vehicle that you employ a driver unless you are experienced with local Timor-Leste driving conditions. Duckle up seat belts and if travelling by motorcycle or bicycle wear a helmet. Also please keep your speed down, especially when travelling through villages as children often play near the road. There are sometimes police and military checkpoints with bored security officers so make sure papers and car are in good working order.

Be prepared for adventure. Besides the tricky roads there is the lack of road signs to contend with. It is possible that you will get so caught up with driving that you miss out the great scenery around you. Poor road quality makes driving in Timor-Leste hazardous. Accidents are frequent especially involving motorcycles. The combination of poor road conditions, an increasing number of vehicles, and limited driver competency increases the possibility of traffic accidents. Outside of Dili, the time required to transport people from the scene of an accident to a medical facility can be significant due to rudimentary road infrastructure.

Four-wheel drive may be required in some areas. Take extra care when it’s wet. Outside of Dili, travel in convoy whenever possible. Main routes are often single-track mountain roads, which can deteriorate rapidly and become impassable, particularly during the rainy season (November-April). While in Dili you will need to confine yourself to a speed limit of 40 km/h. On open roads you may rev up and touch 50-60 km/h. Tourists from the west might find the going slow but that is the maximum speed that can be achieved on Dili roads.

When there is an accident, the police should be contacted. It is not uncommon for bystanders to attack the driver perceived to be responsible for a traffic accident. This is more common in rural areas and in accidents involving East Timorese drivers, but crowds have occasionally attacked expatriate drivers at the scene of an accident. If a U.S. citizen involved in an accident reasonably believes that there is a threat of bodily harm from people at the scene of the accident, it is advisable to drive to the police station or U.S. Embassy before stopping.

While it is possible to obtain insurance for vehicles in Timor-Leste, only a handful of foreigners have done so, and virtually no one else has automobile insurance. Most traffic accidents are settled informally between those involved. Visit the website of the country’s national tourist office and national authority responsible for road safety at http://www.timorleste.gov.tl.

Off Road Driving in Timor-Leste

Police advise individuals against driving off the beaten path. It’s easy to get lost. Use recognised and well-known guides. The best thing to do is hire a vehicle and driver through your hotel or a travel agency. Many of the roads in the forest and rural areas are tracks. Some tracks are surprising hard and smooth. Generally, though, they are bumpy and in poor condition. After it rains they often become impassable.

Off the beaten track, drivers have to deal with quagmires (during the rainy season), deep sand, deep ruts, big rocks, dust, steep hills, landslides, and washed out surfaces. In the some places the roads are only wide enough for one car so be careful around blind turns (honk to let cars coming the opposite direction know you are coming). The biggest obstacles are rivers and streams. Big rivers simply can not be crossed unless there is a bridge.

Distances off road are deceptive. Vehicles are slowed by ruts and potholes and it is not unusual for journey of a 100 kilometers on narrow, twisting, potholed roads to take four or five hours. If you are going four-wheeling in the East Timorese interior remember to bring a winch, wooden planks, an air pump, spare parts and tires, an ax, extra fuel and oil, a first aid kit and enough food and water to last an emergency. A global positioning System (GPS) is useful for figuring out where you are and avoiding getting lost if you are driving in the wilderness.

Driver's License and Insurance in Timor-Leste

Drivers must hold a current driving licence valid for the class of vehicle they plan to drive. If you are driving make sure that you are carrying a valid driving license or permit with you. This can be either from your country or you can have it issued in East Timor. Your licence should specify the kind of vehicle you are allowed to drive.

There is no provision in Timor-Leste for third-party motor insurance. While it is possible to obtain insurance for vehicles in Timor-Leste, only a handful of foreigners have done so, and virtually no one else has automobile insurance. Most traffic accidents are settled informally between those involved.

It is best to have an International Driving Permit (IDP). In the U.S. an IDP can obtained through AAA (American Automobile Association) at AAA office or online ( aaa.com/vacation/idp ) for US$20 and two passport size photographs. IDPs are a legal identification document that translates driving license information into 11 languages, including English, and intended to be used as a supplement to a valid driving license. . Technically, the IDP is so that your license can be read and identified by the Traffic Police, in the event you are checked. Your US driving license is already in English, so technically you would be fine without it, but just get it for peace of mind to be fully within the letter of the law. You don’t want to have a traffic accident and have issues with your driver’s license. A Timor-Leste driver's license may be obtained in Timor-Leste on presentation of a valid license and a passport.

Foreign motorists arriving in Timor-Leste in their own vehicle generally must also have a vehicle registration document. In most countries a green card or insurance certificate showing that the car has accident liability coverage is required. Third party liability usually insurance is mandatory but that appears not to be the case in Timor-Leste.

Hired Vehicles in Timor-Leste

Anneli Knight wrote in The Guardian: “ My No 1 piece of advice for visiting Timor-Leste is to employ a driver and guide to enhance your journey with local knowledge – this costs about US$15 to US$20 a day. There are few, if any, street signs outside Dili, and few locals in the regions speak English. Instead the lingua franca is Tetum, an Austronesian language influenced by Portuguese. Our small dental team benefited from the knowledge of Aida, a local dental auxiliary who was constantly jumping from the troop carrier to ask bystanders for directions as we headed deeper into the hills. There are few, if any, street signs outside the capital, Dili Ministry of Tourism, Rua Martires de Patria, Farol, Dili -Tel: (+670) 3311 499. [Source: Anneli Knight, The Guardian, August 5, 2015]

Vehicles with a driver can be hired formally through hotels, tour companies, travel agencies or rent-a-car agencies, or informally at a taxi or mini bus stand. If you are interested in hiring a vehicle ask around first to find out how much you should pay. The daily price for a car with a driver depends on the condition of the vehicle and your bargaining skills. Minivan rates vary depending on the size of the vehicle. Often you have to pay for the driver’s meals; on longer trips, his hotel rooms too.

Automobiles and SUVs can be rented in Timor-Leste. Visitors wishing to explore Timor-Leste on their own can rent a vehicle (including motorcycles) if they have a driver’s licence. But since driving in Timor-Leste can be a little iffy it may not be a bad idea to hire a driver. You can hire a vehicle (four wheel drive) in Dili for around US$85 a day. Most reputable car rental companies offer 24/7 roadside assistance anywhere in the country. If you are out in a remote district, your help, dispatched from Dili, will take a while to arrive.

Hiring a vehicle and driver is a great idea if you wish to travel flexibly and in comfort. With an experienced driver you are also more likely to stay on route (many road signs are lacking) and you’ll learn much more. All companies can organise drivers and this is definitely recommended. Motorcycles can also be hired by licensed riders. four wheel drive vehicles cost around US$85-120 per day to rent and motorcycles cost US$25-35. If your preference is for other aspects of your trip to be organised also, such as accommodation, specialist Dili based tour operators are happy to arrange personalised itineraries. The following a few local rental companies in Timor-Leste”

Rentlo Car Hire
Large range of four wheel drive vehicles, cars and buses available for hire. Experienced drivers can be arranged.
Location: Comoro, Dili
Tel: (+670) 7741 6982/7741 6983

E Silva Car Rentals
A wide range of vehicles including cars and four wheel drive vehicles available for rent. Experienced drivers can be arranged.
Location: Dili
Tel: (+670) 332 5055 / 7723 5089 / 7724 4671

EDS Car Rentals
A wide range of vehicles including cars, four wheel drives and a bus available for rent. Experienced included with hires.
Owner/Manager: Lino Lopes
Location: Comoro, Dili
Tel: (+670) 7730 4188 / 7723 0880 / 7723 0881 / 7723 0883

Motorbike Rentals in Timor-Leste

Motorcycles, motorbikes and motorscooters can be rented for around US$25-35 per day. Renting a motorcycle to drive yourself around is inexpensive and fun but dangerous. As with a rental car, always inspect a bike for damage before renting and be advised to take good care of it as you are responsible for any damage that you or anyone else inflicts upon the bike. An international driver’s license that includes motorbike certification is the best license, though any driver’s or motorbike license will suffice as you are unlikely to be asked to produce it anyway.

Motorbikes are a great way to get out into the countryside to see the 'real' Timor-Leste. You'll be able to travel wherever and whenever you want. When you stop lock the bike and make sure it is safely parked inside a compound at night. Helmets should be worn. Closed toe shoes, jeans and a jacket are strongly recommended. It’s a good idea to bring a quality good helmet from home if you plan to get a motorbike, or to use when riding on the back of other peoples’ bikes. The quality of some of helmets in Timor-Leste is pretty low. Although some locals eat and talk on their cell phone while several family members are piled in front and back of them on the bike, it is strongly recommended that you keep your wits about you while driving a motorbike in Timor-Leste.

Accidents involving motorcycles are relatively common in Timor-Leste. If you have the misfortune to get into an accident, it's likely to be judged as your fault (even if it wasn't) and you will be expected to pay (on the spot) for any damage caused (to vehicles and people). If someone is injured, the asking amount will be increased to cover the treatment costs. These amounts are generally up for negotiation, strange as it may seem. Any serious injuries and deaths will definitely involve the police being called - you may still be able to get out of trouble by paying enough money, but it's not certain. Police often act as negotiators in the settlement of accident compensation.

Tiger Fuel in Dili, rents motorcycles for US$25-35 per day. Taltabi Motor Rentals has motorcycles available for hire. Owner/Manager: Tome Goncalves / Emilita dos Santos Location: Comoro, Dili Tel: (+670) 7795 7364 / 7723 4777. Bungee cords may be purchased from Star Moto in Baucau to fasten your luggage to the bike.

Boat and Ferry Travel in Timor-Leste

Oekusi (Oecussi) Enclave, Ataúru (Ataúro) Island and Dili are well connected by ferry. A boat ride to Jaku (Jaco) Island will prove to be a memorable experience. An added attraction here is that the fishermen also cook fish for you on request. Ferries are a common method of travel to the western enclave of Oecussi and to the nearby island of Atauro. Ferries are crowded, often beyond recommended capacity per U.S. Coast Guard standards. Whenever possible, avoid ferries and explore other means of travel. There have been incidents of piracy and armed robbery against ships in neighbouring waters. Mariners should be vigilant, reduce opportunities for theft, establish secure areas onboard and report all incidents to the coastal and flag state authorities.

Both Oecusse and Atauro are linked by regular passenger boat services from Dili. Oecusse is serviced by the Government-run, Nakroma ferry which departs Dili Sea Port twice a week (Monday and Thursday) and returns from Pante Macassar the day following. The ferry is usually crowded and the trip takes around 8-12 hours. For ferry tickets visit their office at the Dili Port. Dragon Star Shipping also runs daily services on their fast star craft between Dili and Pante Macassar, approximately 3-4 hours.

The crossing between Dili and Atauro Island is serviced by a few operators, from dive/resort-operated fastboats, to the mass-passenger ferries Nakroma (operates every Saturday), and Success (operates every Thursday), to private charters. Advanced bookings are required for return trips on all fastboat services, and tickets to the ferries are typically available on the day prior to service via ticketing booths located at the Sea Port. All services are highly dependent on the weather – it helps to plan conservatively.

On Atauro Island, boats can be organised between Beloi and other coastal villages, including Adara on the more isolated north coast. When boating keep a look out for whales and dolphins, as sightings are common. Seabirds and flying fish are other highlights. At the eastern end of Timor-Leste, Jaco Island is only a short distance from the mainland and on arrival at Valu it is easy to arrange transportation with local fishermen.

Boat Operators: M.V. Atauro, Laju Laju Ferry, Dragon Star Fast Boats, Local Boats – Jaco Island, Local Boats – Atauro Island, Beloi Beach HoTel: (Boats), Nakroma Ferry. Those planning travel to Timor-Leste by sea should check for U.S. maritime advisories and alerts. Information may also be posted to the U.S. Coast Guard homeport website and the NGA broadcast warnings website under “broadcast warnings”.

Image Sources: Wikimedia Commons

Text Sources: Timor-Leste tourism websites,Timor-Leste government websites, Wikitravel, Wiki Voyage, UNESCO, Wikipedia, Lonely Planet guides, New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, National Geographic, The New Yorker, Bloomberg, Reuters, Associated Press, AFP, Japan News, Yomiuri Shimbun, Compton's Encyclopedia and various books and other publications.

Updated in August 2020


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