CLIMBING EVEREST:
Mt. Everest was the second 8000 meter peak to be climbed, after Annapurna, which was climbed in June 1950. Everest was climbed in May 1953, ahead of Nanga Parbat in July 1953 and K2 in July 1954. According to NASA’s Earth Observatory: “Glaciers have chiseled Mount Everest’s summit into a huge, triangular pyramid defined by three faces and three ridges that extend to the northeast, southeast, and northwest. The southeastern ridge is the most widely used climbing route. It is the route that Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay followed in May 1953 when they became the first climbers to reach the summit and return safely. [Source: earthobservatory.nasa.gov ]
“Climbers who follow this route begin by trekking past Khumbu glacier and through the Khumbu ice fall, an extremely dangerous area where ice tumbles off the mountain into a chaotic waterfall of ice towers and crevasses. Next, climbers reach a bowl-shaped valley—a cirque—called the Western Cwm (pronounced coom) to the foot of the Lhotse Face, a 1,125-meter (3,691-foot) wall of ice. Climbing up the Lhotse face leads to the South Col, the low point in the ridge that connects Everest to Lhotse. It is from the South Col that most expeditions launch their final assault on the summit, following a route up the southeastern ridge.
“Some climbers opt for the northern ridge, which is known for having harsher winds and colder temperatures. The northern ridge is the path that British climbers George Mallory and Andrew Irvine used in 1924 during what may, in fact, have been the first ascent. Whether the pair made it to the summit remains a topic of controversy, but what is known for certain is that the men were spotted pushing toward the summit just before the arrival of a storm. Mallory’s corpse was discovered near the northeast ridge at 8,160 meters (26,772 feet) by an American climber in 1999, but it still isn’t clear whether he reached the summit. Despite its reputation as an extremely dangerous mountain, commercial guiding has done much to tame Everest in the last few decades. As of March 2012, there had been 5,656 successful ascents of Everest, while 223 people had died — a fatality rate of just 4 percent.”
People Who Climb Everest
As of 2020, over 5,000 people had reached the 8,848-meter (29,031-foot) -high summit of Mt. Everest, some of them making the trip several times. Approximately 800 to 1,000 people attempt to climb Everest annually with about half of them or more making it the top. About 300 have died trying to reach the top or died after they made it and were heading down. This means about one person dies for every 20 attempting to climb Mount Everest. In comparison K2 — the world’s second highest mountain — is considered a much more most difficult and dangerous to climb. For every four climbers attempting to summit K2, one climber dies. As of June 2018, only 367 people had completed the ascent of K2 and 86 had died trying
About 1,500 people try to reach the summit of Everest each year, with about half of them making it and between five and 15 dying. According to the 2018 edition of the Himalayan Database, the primary and most reliable source of Everest statistics, there were 8,306 summits of Everest through 2017 by 4,833 different people, compared to 7,646 summits by 4,469 people as of 2016 and 6,871 summits by 4,042 different people in 2013. In 2019 about 807 people summitted, a record. In 2020 no one did because climbing was suspended due to the coronavirus pandemic. Between 2000 and 2016, there was a non-sherpa summit success rate of 50 percent (49 percent for men and 52 percent for women). About 60 percent of expeditions put at least one person on the summit. In 2016, 667 people reached the top. In 2017, there were 648 summits: 61 percent of those who went above base camp made it. The success rate of climbers more than tripled between 1990 and 2010, largely due to more guides and better gear.
Many more people reach the summit of Everest now than before. In the early years few people made it. Only 30 people reached it in the two decades that followed Hillary and Tenzing’s first ascent in 1953. As of 1988 about 200 men and women had stood on the top of Mt. Everest. In 2003, 137 people reached the summit, some of them more than once. Between 1953 and 2003, about 1,200 people had reached the summit — including climbers from 63 nations, more than 250 Nepalese and Sherpas, 160 Americans and 100 Japanese — and 175 had died out of the more than 10,000 who tried. About 100 people reach the summit every year in the 1990s and about 12 teams on the mountains at any given time during the April-May and October-November climbing seasons back then.
In an average year — if there is no war, earthquake or pandemic — a dozen to two dozen teams apply to make the climb. They are allowed to have 12 members plus Sherpas and other porters. There are basically two types of teams that climb Mt. Everest: the ones that climb with a particular goal in mind, such as pioneering a certain route or being the first of certain group of some group; and mountain climbers with varying degrees of experience that it want to reach the top.
mounteverest.net mounteverest.net; International Mountain Guides.com mountainguides.com ; Everest News everestnews.com ;
Why People Climb Everest
Mark Jenkins wrote in National Geographic: ““Despite all the problems on the mountain, Everest still stands alone. There will always be people who want to climb the world’s tallest peak, because there’s more to being on Everest than getting hemmed in by crowds or confronted by heaps of trash. The mountain is so high and so indifferent it calls upon every climber, at one time or another, to rise to his or her better self. [Source: Mark Jenkins, National Geographic, June, 2013]
“There is also beauty on Everest. I’ll never forget the breathtaking view from our perch at Camp III, clouds roiling up the Western Cwm like a slow-motion reverse avalanche. Or the visceral relief of a cup of scalding soup at Camp IV. Or the crunch of my crampons in the crystalline labyrinth of the Khumbu Icefall just above Base Camp. I’ll treasure the memory of climbing with friends on the mountain. I committed my life to them, and they committed their lives to me. Such moments are the reasons climbers keep coming back to Everest. It’s not simply about reaching the summit but about showing respect for the mountain and enjoying the journey.
Sir Edmund Hillary once said, "The fact that either you or one of your companions may have the possibility of dying...not only doesn't stop you doing it, but it's almost one of the things that keep you going." Jon Krakauer, author the bestseller “Into Thin Air” wrote, "Attempting to climb Everest is an intrinsically irrational act. Any person who would seriously consider doing it is, by definition beyond the scope of reasoned judgment."
Seattle climber Dr. Jim Litch told Newsweek: "People don't climb Mt. Everest to risk their lives. There's a passion and a closeness where you face your own mortality with your closest friends. Climbers are people who hold onto life more than people who don't climb, and what we learn up there we bring home to our loved ones.”Apa Sherpa, a Sherpa who reached the summit 13 times, said, "Strength is not the only thing required when you scale Mt. Everest. You must also have nerves of steel and you need a lot of determination and dedication."
Everest Climb
It generally takes about two months to climb Mt. Everest. Most of that time is spent waiting around various camps to get acclimated to the altitude and waiting for good weather conditions. The Everest Base Camp (BC) area — on the Nepalese side anyway — is like a high-tech refugee camp, with kitchen tents, dining tents, satellite dishes, boom boxes, video equipment, portable generators and even makeshift restaurants, bars and partying areas. Altogether climbers often spend about three months in Everest area. It takes about 10 days to three weeks to trek to and from Everest Base Camp from Lukla, the nearest airstrip. Once at Everest Base Camp it takes an average of 40 days to climb to the summit of Mt. Everest.
Above Everest Base Camp on the Nepalese side of the most-used climbing route to the summit of Everest — the South Col Route — are four camps: Camp One (C1), Camp Two (C2), Camp Three (C3) and Camp Four (C4). In the old days a greater part of an expedition was spent ferry supplies up to the camps, and going back down and repeating the process. There is still of this done today to some degree but a lot of this kind of work is done by Sherpas and porters. A lot of time is spent just sitting in the camp getting used to the altitude. The going up and down and acclimatizing generally takes a couple of weeks up to a month. When weather conditions are right climbers make their final assault from Camp Four, try to make the summit, and return to Camp Four for the night. The next day climbers can usually descend all the way Everest Base Camp.
Despite its many dangers and high death tool, Everest is not technically difficult to climb. Grayson Schaffer wrote in the Washington Post: “More than 5,000 people have climbed Everest via two routes — the Southeast Ridge, from Nepal, and the North Col Route, from Tibet. These are what climbers call “walk-ups,” or long, slow, plodding ascents. Guides such as Dave Hahn have climbed the mountain 15 times, while two Sherpas, Apa Sherpa and Phurba Tashi Sherpa, have climbed it an astonishing 21 times. Meanwhile, K2, the world’s second-highest peak, is more difficult to conquer, as is Mount Nuptse, which is right next to Everest. Unlike its giant neighbor, this satellite peak is consistently steep and offers few safe places to camp. [Source: Grayson Schaffer, Washington Post, April 24, 2014]
Safety worries due to carelessness and poor judgment are increasingly becoming a concern. Omkar Khandekar wrote in the South China Morning Post: Although the Nepalese government fixes support ropes all the way to the summit at the beginning of every climbing season, every ascent is fraught with risks. The US$11,000 climbing permits are given on a first-come, first-served basis and can be bought by complete novices as long as they pay the fee, complete the necessary paperwork and submit a medical certificate of fitness. [Source: Omkar Khandekar, South China Morning Post, June 16, 2019]
Obstacles and Risks of Climbing Mt. Everest
The most difficult parts of the most-used climbing route to the summit of Everest — the South Col Route — are the first sections across the Khumbu ice fall and the final stretch to the summit, which includes Hillary’s Step. Many of these sections are not as difficult as the used to be as they have ladders and fixed lines to help climbers get through the hardest parts.
Avalanches and the collapse of seracs (blocks or pinnacles of glacial ice) are real dangers. Grayson Schaffer wrote in the Washington Post: “The hanging glacier on Everest’s West Shoulder calves daily, and everybody is terrified of its regular releases. In 2012, members of a National Geographic/North Face expedition took to calling it “the Fangs,” while an Eddie Bauer group I was living with at base camp called it “the Horseshoe.” That year, Russell Brice, a New Zealander who owns and runs Himalayan Experience, decided to call off his expedition in part because of this same hanging glacier. I happened to be walking by as he stood on the helipad with clients who were questioning his decision. “We’re climbers, we’re used to taking risks,” they said. Brice pointed to the hanging glacier and said, “That’s what I’m worried about.” [Source: Grayson Schaffer, Washington Post, April 24, 2014]
According to mounteverest.net: “The risks involved in climbing Everest are great. Even when using bottled oxygen, mountaineers can experience fatigue, nausea, vomiting and other related problems such as hypothermia and frostbite. Climbers normally spend months acclimatizing to get their body ready for the extreme conditions which they will encounter. Many people that have climbed Mount Everest come back with both physical and psychological problems from the climb. [Source: mounteverest.net mounteverest.net]
The greatest hazard in climbing Mt. Everest is the weather. Storms with 100 mile hour winds, -40̊F temperatures and snow blind conditions strike Everest with a fair amount of regularity but often without warning and thus are difficult to prepare for and avoid. For every 500 meters climbed in the Himalayas the temperature drops 3̊C (about 4.5̊F). At the summits of high mountains winds can kick up to 135 kilometers per hour (90 miles per hour) and temperatures can drop many degrees below zero. The lowest temperature ever recorded in Mt. Everest was -42̊C (-44̊ F) in December 2004. Above 7,925 meters (26,000 feet) jet stream winds can blow at speeds of 190 kilometers per hour (118 miles per hour). There are many stories of climbings setting out for the final assaults in fine weather conditions and having a storm kick up while they are climbing.
Overconfidence and time are also serious risks. There are many stories of climbers insisting on pushing on — when better judgement would say turn back — and succumbing to altitude issues or extreme fatigue and collapsing from exhaustion or getting into trouble or dying on the way down. There are also those that continue going, take too long to make the ascent or stay too long at the summit and get trapped in darkness and bad weather during the descent.
Climbing Season of Mt. Everest
Must people who reach the summit for Mt. Everest, do so in mid May. During January, February, May and April, the jet stream winds often exceed 100mph. From late May to September is the monsoon season, when heavy precipitation and storms are common,. There occasionally good days to reach the summit lin late September, October and November. In late November and December the weather is too cold. Sometimes climbers scramble up the last part of the Everest ascent — if they are lucky enough to get good weather — after the official climbing season ends on May 31.
According to Explorer’s Passage: “The top of Mt. Everest is engulfed by the jet stream for a major part of the year, making climbing near impossible due to high winds and extreme sub zero temperatures. It is only when the winds die down in May and again for a short period in September, that we have a so called ‘Summit Window’, when conditions are safe enough for climbers to try and reach the summit.
According to mounteverest.net: The Jet stream is the main concern on Everest weather. This westerly wind will have a large impact on your choice for a summit day. We have experienced Camp Two in total calm, while the jet wind roared at the summit with a force of more than 100 miles an hour. In these conditions, the sound is that of a jet-engine and gusts drop down at 50 mph. Sometimes, the jet wind will rise and give a short period of calm and a summit attempt might be possible. A summit bid in these conditions is however hazardous. You will encounter people making the summit in perfect calm one day, while the next day others hardly make it above Camp Four. At times the jet wind is gone, but the weather is still unstable. At the time of the 1996 accidents there were just those unstable weather patterns. Dark blizzard clouds emerged from the valley. One of the strongest teams on the mountain (the IMAX) actually returned from Camp Four that day, only to meet a large group of people going up in the high winds and deteriorating weather. Well, the rest is history. [Source: Tom Sjogren, mounteverest.net]
“A problem with waiting for the window could be other climbers. Most expeditions schedule their attempt for the 10th of May, and by the 23rd at least half of the expeditions will have returned home. Most commercial expeditions have an end date around the 20th. When you plan for your expedition — make sure you have the resources to stay until the permit ends (1st of June). Sometimes there is a period of weak winds and good weather in the beginning of May. You should be ready for summit attempt already from the 1st of May to take advantage of this. If you don't summit on this first, early attempt, there will be plenty of time to go down the valley for a week's rest, and then head back up for a new attempt in the end of the month. The wind force forecast should definitely not exceed 40 mph (20 m/s) when going for the summit. You could maybe make it in 50, but then you are extremely exposed for the wind-chill and exhaustion. In these conditions you will hardly make the summit without frostbites — or worse. Look for less than 20 mph (10m/s). Even if that doubles, you will have a good chance of making it.
The autumn climbing season runs from September to November and the winter season from December to January. The mountain is often virtually deserted in the autumn and, yes, some people climb it in the winter. In 2007, the Tourism Ministery of Nepal climbing fees for that time of the year in an effort to attract more climbers. Tourism Minister Prithvi Subba Gurung told Reuters: “We are working on proposals to give a 50 percent royalty cut in the autumn and 75 percent during the winter climbing seasons.” [Source: Gopal Sharma, Reuters, August 22, 2007]
Reuters reported: “But experts said most mountaineers would still favor the spring season because of warmer weather and more daylight. “In autumn you have a shorter period of possible good weather between the end of the monsoon rains (and) snowfall and the onset of very fierce jet stream winds on Mt. Everest,” said Elizabeth Hawley, a mountaineering historian. “Almost nobody comes to Everest in winter because it is extremely cold and the daylight hours are much shorter.” The daytime temperature on top of Mt. Everest even in the spring season can fall to between -25 and -30 degrees Celsius while it dips to as low as -50 degrees in winter, she said. Climbers from a U.S. and Canadian team scaled Everest peak last autumn, but the last successful winter climb from the Nepali side was carried out by a Japanese team in 1993. No team has attempted a winter bid since 1999 when a U.S. expedition failed, Hawley said.”
Preparations and What You Need to Climb Everest
To climb Mt. Everest and the other great peaks of the Himalayas mountaineers need to hire a professional guide — generally arranged from a trekking or mountaineering agency — and get a peak permit, which costs US$11,000 per climber for the pre-monsoon season in May on the south side of Everest, and slightly cheaper in Tibet at about US$8,000. The fees can be lower in the shorter September climbing season. Permits are often arranged by group, at a cost US$77,000 for seven climbers. Mountaineering companies charge their clients around US45,-000 to US$75,000 per head. Even though dozens have died, mountaineering companies that arrange trips are flooded with applications. Climbing Everest requires months if not years of preparation and training. [Source: Explorer’s Passage, 2020]
According to mounteverest.net: After you have decided on a trekking agency, you need to be really specific with the services that you need. You have to specify who will care for the sherpas' tents, climbing gear and so on.” You have to work out things like: “What food (BC and high altitude) will you provide, what should be provided by them, kitchen tents, BC-mass tents, fuel, oxygen, transportation and such. The Sherpas should be insured (a small, yet important cost to save lives). Beware if you are promised a permit space by your agency; you could end up without it upon arriving in Kathmandu. Pressure the agency in time for all the facts about your expedition leader, contact him/her yourself and check with the Ministry that the permit really has been filed for and that your name is included. Make sure that all the negotiations are confirmed in writing (fax or e-mail) and bring all the correspondence with you upon arrival in Kathmandu. Phone agreements will NOT be enough! Having everything put on print makes it very clear who said what. It prevents unnecessary hassles and added costs when time is short in Kathmandu. [Source: Tom Sjogren, mounteverest.net]
The following is an example of what you need to have cleared before you get to Kathmandu, in terms of who should handle what.The agency should provide: 1) Sherpas tents and gear all camps; 2) BC- and Camp Two kitchen tents & kitchen gear; 3) Transportation all gear Lukhla-BC-Lukhla; 4) Permit handling; 5) Icefall fee (upon agreement or agency); 6) Fuel kitchen tents; 7) Fuel all high camps; 8) Food Everest Base Camp and Camp Two (agency — but bring loads of extra stuff for yourself); 9) Food high camp; 10) Sherpas; 11) Airplane tickets Lukhla-Kathmandu-Lukhla; 12) Liaison officer; 13) Sherpas insurance; 14) Sherpa salaries; 15) Permits for satellite phone, computers and other tech stuff. A "private" videocam is free but "pro" cam can cost up to US$5000. Some projects even requiring having a liasion officers.
The climber is expected to provide: 1) Climbers climbing gear; 2) High altitude Sherpas "climbing gear" (sponsored by you with an amount of cash, say US$1000-2000 each, actually their salary); 3) Climbers tents, burners, and camp gear for all camps; 4) BC- and Camp Two mass tents (preferably the climber); 5) Oxygen climbers and sherpas (the climber, from — Poisk, See Below); 6) Oxygen gear climbers and sherpas (preferably the climber, Poisk); 7) Transportation of the climber and gear your country to Kathmandu and back; 8) Food at the high camps for climbers; 9) Climbers insurance; 10) Medical aids; 11) Weather forecasts,satellite phone, computers and all other tech; 12) Fixed ropes fee; 13) Sherpa tips (depending on satisfaction and altitude 10-20 percent of climbing gear fee, the cooking boys expect their share).
Costs for Climbing Everest
Erik Hille, an American mountaineer, wrote in Quora.com in 2019: There is a huge cost to attempting Everest: US$30,000 to US$114,000. These costs are generally incurred both if you make it the summit and you don’t. Most people pay about US$45,000 to US$70,000. For a couple decades now, western operators like Adventure Consultants, Alpine Ascents (AAI), Jagged Globe, Himalayan Experience (Himex), International Mountain Guides (IMG) and others have guided hundreds to the top of Everest for prices ranging from US$40,000 to US$65,000, all inclusive. But that is changing. In 2016 there is intense competition from Nepali owned and operated companies. With many Sherpas having ten or more summits of Everest, they are advertising themselves as Everest Guides and eliminating the traditional Western Guide who would be paid between US$10,000 and US$25,000 and this cost is passed on to the clients.
“If you want every perk and luxury you can image on a Himalayan peak in 2016, Alpenglow unapologetically offers a climb from the Tibet side for an astonishing US$85,000 per climber, twice to three times the average price on the north side. The average price of the companies I surveyed for 2016 looks to be about US$42,000 for a Sherpa Guided climb from the south and US$60,000 with Western Guides. The average from the north is US$32,000 with Sherpas/Tibetans only. If you want to go with one of the low cost Nepali companies, it will run about US$30,000 from either side. For your own personal Western Guide, International Mountain Guides will set you up for US$114,000.
To climb Mt. Everest and the other great peaks of the Himalayas mountaineers need to a peak permit, which costs US$11,000 per climber for the pre-monsoon season in May on the south side of Everest, and slightly cheaper in Tibet at about US$8,000. The fees can be lower in the shorter September climbing season. These fees may or may not paid by the trekking or mountaineering company.
In 2014, Nepal's Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil lowered the fee for climbing Everest during the spring season from US$25,000 to US$11,000 per climber. Mark Jenkins wrote for National Geographic: “Though still not cheap, the new fee structure would appear to make an Everest expedition somewhat more affordable and thereby available to more climbers. But veteran Himalayan guides say a closer look at the numbers tells a different story and raises old questions about safety and the economic health of the area surrounding the world's tallest mountain. [Source: Mark Jenkins, National Geographic, February 20, 2014]
“In the past, Nepalese government fees for climbing via the Southeast Ridge during the spring were based on a sliding scale, with the cost per climber dropping to US$10,000 per person once a team had seven members or more (up to the maximum of 15). Very few climbers paid the full US$25,000 price tag. Instead, small climbing teams would bind together under the umbrella of one government permit. Beginning in 2015, when the new fees take effect, the Nepalese price for foreign climbers in groups on Everest will actually increase from US$10,000 to US$11,000. Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation spokesperson Tilakram Pandey told Reuters: "The change in royalty rates will discourage artificially formed groups, where the leader does not even know some of the members of the team. It will promote responsible and serious climbers."
“For experienced alpinists who want to climb Everest as a part of a small, well-acquainted team, the change keeps costs down, although all teams — no matter their size — will still be required to hire a government liaison officer for US$2,500 and pay US$500 to US$600 per climber for the "ice doctors," specially trained Sherpas who install the ladders and fixed lines up through the treacherous Khumbu Icefall.”
According to mounteverest.net: “The expedition must pay a Liaison Officer who will spend some time in your camp (usually in the sherpa quarters). The liaison officers are there to check that everyone in Everest Base Camp is at least somewhat civilized to each other. You only need to pay for a film permit if you are doing a commercial film, shooting private video is free. The agency will specify the costs for all of the above services. You will also usually pay sherpas additional bonuses after the climb for summiting and/or a job well done. Surf the net for various agencies and get offers from several to compare costs. Don't necessarily go for the cheapest. Be wise. The expedition will need to put up an environment security of around US$4000. The money will be returned when the expedition has brought back the trash and empty oxygen bottles. Should you lose a bottle on the mountain, bring down an old one. [Source: mounteverest.net mounteverest.net]
Permits to Climb Mt. Everest
In 2019, Nepal issued a record 381 permits for mainly foreign climbers. Each climber with a permit is assisted by at least one Sherpa. At least 140 others have been granted permits to scale Everest from the northern flank in Tibet.
Permits to climb Mt. Everest in Nepal are obtained from the Nepal Ministry and Administration. As we said before the fee for a May ascent is US$11,000, with a group of at least seven, and cheaper for fall ascents and climbs from Tibet. Most climbers get their permist through a mountaineering or trekking agency. Nepal issued a record 383 permits in 2019 which earned the country 442 million rupees (US$3.9 million). It issued 371 in 2017. Add to these numbers the accompanying Sherpas, and the total number of people on Everest tops 800.
According to mounteverest.net: “Even though the Ministry actually acts pleasantly towards climbers, you will still face bureaucracy and culture of numerous people wanting a piece of the cake when organizing your expedition in Nepal. That's why it is essential to work with a local Trekking Agency. They will provide you with the papers and get you the appointments necessary. As an expedition leader you will file for a permit through the agency. Do it well in time (preferably 6 months prior to the expedition), enclose a passport copy, passport pictures and a Letter of Recommendation from your local Alpine Association/Climbing club. [Source: mounteverest.net mounteverest.net]
“Let the Alpine Association simply know what you've climbed before and/or the courses you've attended. State all your climbs, not just the ones you've summited. Everything counts for experience. Once in Kathmandu, you will file additional papers and have a half-hour briefing with the minister or his associates. They will mainly talk to you about climbing sensibly and to care for the environment. If you are not setting up the entire permit, check with your trekking agency for spaces on others permits, or get together with climbers on this site's "climbers personals".
Everest Money and Bureaucracy
Mark Jenkins wrote in National Geographic: “To prevent crowding on the mountain, some have proposed limiting not only the total number of permits per season but also the size of each team — to no more than ten clients per team. Others are skeptical. “That will not happen,” says New Zealander Guy Cotter, 50, owner of Adventure Consultants, which has led 19 expeditions to Everest. “Everest is big business for Nepal, and they will never turn down the money.” In Nepal, a country of nearly 30 million, one in four citizens lives in poverty. The country itself is in limbo. A ten-year civil war between Maoists and government loyalists ended in 2006. The monarchy was later dissolved and a coalition government created, but the past... years have been deeply troubled, with belligerent political parties operating under an interim constitution. The political system is “so corrupt and so feckless,” Kunda Dixit, editor of the Nepali Times, has said, “that not having a government is actually beneficial, because there is no one to make all those mistakes.” [Source: Mark Jenkins, National Geographic, June, 2013]
“Expeditions on the mountain spent almost US$12 million in Nepal in the spring of 2012, according to Ang Tshering Sherpa, owner of Asian Trekking. The ministry took in more than US$3 million in permit fees from climbers on 30 foreign expeditions. “You have to remember, Nepal is almost a failed state,” Cotter says. “More government intervention would only encourage more corruption.” Dave Hahn, a high-altitude guide whose 14 Everest summits are an American record, agrees. Expecting the Nepalese government to institute solutions isn’t realistic, he says. “Everest operators must come together to self-regulate the situation.” “The ministry is an expansive, dysfunctional bureaucracy,” says Conrad Anker, 50, who led the National Geographic-supported expedition in 2012. “Of the US$3 million generated in permit fees each year, only a small amount makes it back to the mountain.” (The ministry was repeatedly contacted for this article but declined to comment.)
“The so-called liaison officer system is a perfect example of this dysfunction, Anker says. Every Everest team is assigned a government liaison officer, or LO, who is paid by the team and is supposed to make sure regulations are followed. But none of the LOs actually go up the mountain. “Most don’t even stay in Base Camp,” Anker says. “They go back down where it’s warm.” LOs should be replaced, he argues, by climbing rangers with the knowledge, ability, and desire to patrol the mountain and enforce regulations. Everest also needs a permanent search-and-rescue team: “Eight Sherpas and four Western guides, all paid through the ministry,” he says. “This would make the mountain safer.”
Transporting Gear to Everest
According to mounteverest.net: “Transportation of alpine gear is expensive and really bureaucratic. Preferably, pack in large North Face soft packs or equivalent. Plastic barrels are convenient as well. The domestic airlines in Nepal are reluctant to fly the largest of those barrels, so choose the smaller sizes. Buy small padlocks for everything. On its way to Everest Base Camp, the luggage will at times be left unattended. [Source: Tom Sjogren, mounteverest.net]
“Pack everything bearing in mind that it will be carried on Yaks. Ketchup will pierce, jam jars will leak, sugar end up in your underwear. Store everything tight and isolated in plastic bunks (tupperware style) if you don't want to forever remember Everest by the smell of various food products. Potato chips should be Pringles, if not for the taste then for the hard case. All foods and technical gear will also face extreme temperatures, both hot and cold.
“Have your trekking agency to pick up your gear at the Kathmandu airport. Otherwise, you will lose your mind. The place is loaded with staff, their cousins and even more cousins, all more or less just hanging around but somehow all being involved with you. It's "baksheesh" (tip) here and baksheesh there and still no action! You will be told to file papers and then to redo them all over again. And again. Leave it to your Trekking agency instead and have them to do the hassle at the airport for you.
Sherpas
According to mounteverest.net: Sherpas are the inhabitants of the Khumbu-valley, the national park surrounding Everest. Living at altitude for generations, they “are well adapted to living at high altitudes. Once you go above 3000 meters (10000 feet) most of them will easily outrun you. Their natural advantage is strongest up to 8000 meters (23,000 feet), there after they too will face problems. Most sherpas will consequently require oxygen above camp 4 in order to perform at their best. [Source: Tom Sjogren, mounteverest.net]
The sherpas are usually happy and easy going. They take great pride in their mountaineering heritage. Since Sherpas are stronger than us at altitude, they are very well suited for alpine style expeditions in the Himalayas. You will need them to carry the oxygen, the gear and as a safety on the summit push. Many "solo" climbers actually bring sherpas with them all the way up. Sherpas are a valuable aid to us, as the climb will be hard enough for you anyway, in not being genetically adapted to that kind of altitude by birth.
“To work with Sherpas will require good management on your part and to find the good people to begin with. The trekking agency will recommend Sherpas connected to them. Check if the Sherpa has made the summit and when so (we asked for and were assigned 2 summit Sherpas once, but it was never made clear that they last summited in 1978 and 1982). It's also wise to check if the Sherpa is motivated to go for the summit again. Young non-summiteers could be hungry to summit, but lack experience. Summiteers might be content with the higher rank and salary that their summit has already entitled them and not really be motivated to summit again.
“Talk to other climbers about the sherpas they liked and try to hire those people. Should you still have to work with Sherpas that you are not familiar with — the most common procedure — remember that the more self sufficient and skilled you are, the less dependent will you be on them. In the end though, if the weather is good and they trust your abilities, they will usually go for the summit, or close enough, with you.
“Remember a simple fact: you get what you pay for. Sherpas that are known to perform well (this meaning being responsible and hard working) will require higher salaries than their counterparts. As you should be careful to save money on the wrong things, you might think this over before you end up with people turning on you when you need them most. Again, have specified on paper with the trekking agency what you will ask from your staff. Meet with the sherpas in Kathmandu about the very same thing, so that you are all clear on what's expected. Still though, don't get surprised if what's agreed on in Kathmandu will turn different once on the mountain. It comes with the neighborhood and you will simply have to deal with it there and then.
“Finally, remember; the sherpas are not your servants. Use them for the important tasks. They speak broken English and are usually not so schooled, but they can think very well for themselves. They will need respect. And — as any staff — motivation along with clear leadership. Have meetings about the gear, climbing decisions and problem solving. Make sure that you at all times know what's going on in the expedition; which tents are to be used and where, exactly how much fuel, food and gear is at each camp. Check the oxygen, regulators and masks together beforehand. Mark everything with each person's name and so on. Don't leave it all to your Sirdar (Sherpa leader): You are the expedition leader! Only then will you get respect and your decisions will be trusted.”
Acclimatization for Climbing Everest Schedule
According to mounteverest.net: Following is our preferred schedule for acclimatizing on Everest:
Trek to Everest Base Camp 10 days
Arrival Everest Base Camp April 1
Climbing Camp One April 7
Back to Everest Base Camp April 8
Climbing Camp Two April 11
Back to Everest Base Camp April 13
Climbing Camp Two April 17
Climbing Camp Three April 19
Back to Everest Base Camp April 20
Trekking down April 21
Back to Everest Base Camp April 26
1st summit attempt May 1-7
Trekking down May 7-12
Back in Everest Base Camp May 13
Last summit attempts May 16-30
[Source: Tom Sjogren, mounteverest.net]
This schedule allows plenty of time for upcoming illnesses and rest in the valley whilst climbing slowly. In addition, it provides for 2-3 summit attempts. It requires that you reach Everest Base Camp early and leave late. It also requires the Icefall and other fixed rope preparations to be done in time. The weather conditions will obviously have the last word on all the dates stated above. The important part is that you are ready for the periods of weather windows that usually occur in beginning and end of May.
We have started skipping acclimatization at Camp Three. “We had started that procedure after noticing that sleep at Camp Three wore us down rather than acclimatized us further. Instead, we now stay longer at Camp Two (5-7 days) and climb up to 7000 meters (the beginning of the Lhotse face) several times during the stay. In addition, we usually climb straight from Camp One to Camp Two, after spending 2-3 days at Camp One.
“This means that we climb from Everest Base Camp to Camp One, stay there for 2-3 days, continue to Camp Two and stay there for another 5-7 days (whilst climbing back and forth the Lhotse wall), then returning to Everest Base Camp for a rest in the valleys. To us, this approach means more time at altitude above Everest Base Camp, without the constant dangers and wear of climbing up and down. Also, it provides plenty of time to rest at low altitude (5 days including the trek) and to be back in good time for a possible weather window. This acclimatization has left us well adapted to the altitude and strong for the summit attempt.
Dealing with the Weather at Mt. Everest
According to mounteverest.net: To climb or not to...You will lay at night in camp 2 and listen to the roar of a distant train — the Jet wind. To go or to stay — the decision will be like gambling red or black in Las Vegas. Your odds of the correct move just as poor. Going too soon will mean wearing yourself down, having to climb back all the way to Everest Base Camp and your chances lost until you regain strength for a new attempt. Waiting too long means happy Summiteers greeting you on their way down while the weather is turning worse on you.
“Expeditions sometimes share weather reports, subscribed to from various meteorologists. Daily weather reports are costly and therefore more frequent close to the time of the summit push. ExplorersWeb now provides daily customized weather reports free of charge. Expeditions download them on satellite phones and distribute them to those without computers. Whilst weather reports can be quite accurate, there is a local weather system on the mountain that they can't foresee. Therefore, a day with reported mild wind conditions could very well turn into a blowing frenzy, or reported strong wind nowhere to be seen. The best way to read weather reports has always been to look for extended changes in the weather pattern. 4-5 following days of high or low figures is often a good chance of good or bad weather. Use the information to rest or to climb. [Source: Tom Sjogren, mounteverest.net]
“Don't climb if the weather forecast is jumping back and forth and/or there is snow and strange cloud formations. Use common sense. Don't climb if it is snowing. Sherpas go back to sleep if there is a heavy snowfall, and so should you. What we primarily look for is a prolonged period (4-5 days) of stable weather with the jet far away. This is called "the window".
“During our four Everest expeditions the window has come every year at about the same time, around the 23rd of May and has lasted for about a week. To find a window, it is valuable to look for the Monsoon starting to move north in the Bay of Bengal. The weather report will tell you when that occurs. This powerful weather system will pressure the jet wind to the north and create a period of perfect weather. Don't wait too long though. As the Monsoon hits the Khumbu valley with heavy snowfalls, you should already be back in Kathmandu.
“There are reports made by many international met stations and subscribed to individually by expeditions, often on a sponsor basis. Share all reports and compare for best safety. Get the forecast every third day or so from when you start climbing, and then every day on the summit days. The forecast will typically be done for 4-5 days ahead and more accurate the closer to the climb it is done. You need some basic knowledge to read the forecast: Everest position is 28N and 87E. You need to bring a map to position the jet stream and various weather systems.
Sample reports: May 7: General Synopsis: A weak upper trough over Everest early in the day will move away to east, replaced by a ridge of high pressure. Position of Jet stream in relation to Mt. Everest: Over Pakistan, SW 80kts, at first propagating east to lie over, or just north of, Everest, W 60kts, by the end of the day. Cloud: Broken Cu building by day, with broken Ci throughout. Weather: Mainly fair, small chance of a snow shower, especially later.
May 28: General Synopsis: Weak Upper Ridge just east of Everest, axis between 40N 95E & 30N 92E, with a broad trough to the west axis near 45N 75E to 32N 73E. Position of Jet stream in relation to Mt Everest: Jet well to the north of location between 45N 60E and 40N 92E. Core speed 95 knots near 39N 84E. Position of Monsoon: Invigoration of the Monsoon Trough in the Bay of Bengal, with the main activity as far north as 22N, but with an extension of this activity as far north as 30N further east (near 100E).
Interpretation: May 7 is not a good day for climbing. Note the change from a trough to a region of high pressure. The jet wind is right at or very close to Everest and the wind on the summit (FL300) will be 57 knots. On May 28 it's a totally different story. The jet wind is well to the north, the monsoon is moving and the wind is 10 knots! An excellent day for a summit attempt. The weather reports provided by ExplorersWeb today are adjusted to climbers suggestions for improvement and easier to read, but you'll still have to understand and interpret the facts.
“The second best weather source is the Sherpas. They normally have a great sense, especially for when not to climb. They have lived in the area for centuries and should always be listened to. However, their judgment might sometimes be somewhat biased and connected to overall motivation of climbing. Listen, think and make your own judgment. Weather talk is one of the main topics with fellow climbers. Unfortunately, few actually read and try to understand the weather reports. Once again, listen, think and make your own judgment.
Tips for Avoiding Trouble on an Everest Expedition
According to mounteverest.net: “”Knowledge and control, acquired by experience” are everything. “Know your oxygen gear, the oxygen rates, check that your gear is really going up and with what sherpa. Bring some extra food and the most important drugs. Be very firm that your oxygen bottles are marked with your name, have your own oxygen gear with you and test it before the climb. Use your own sence and be organized. Don't fight with your leader openly if possible, but don't be afraid to take him aside and be firm on aspects concerning your safety.
“Try to pay for a summit sherpa specially assigned to you. If you are assigned a guide, discuss the climb with him/her beforehand. Refuse to climb dangerous parts if not properly secured by fresh rope — require that it be taken care of. In technically difficult Himalayan expeditions, skilled climbers always take the time to secure dangerous parts with good rope. You are not being a whimp — you are sensible in a dangerous environment. Don't let daredevils, lazybones or leaders saving a buck tell you anything else! Climbing Everest doesn't mean being reckless.
“Check the weather reports, know the figures and think for yourself. You still might be forced into situations because sherpas and other climbers are led into actions opposite your belief. Don't compete in speed with the others. As the tortoise knew and the hare learned, speed is nothing, getting there is everything. Many climbers wear themselves out on the initial climbs in order to impress the others. They rush, carry huge loads and even pick on you if you are slower. Don't listen to that. In the end, they could very well end up weakened by wearing themselves down, while you steadily pass them to the summit.
“We were often considered slow. Yet in the end we summited Everest already at 9.18 in the morning, with enough power to spend an additional hour on the summit working the technical stuff and finally had a nice climb back to Camp Four, shooting film and pictures on the way. And that just weeks after an earlier climb to the Balcony (8600-m/28000 ft; the altitude of K2) with Babu. Don't allow anybody to rush you. Be cool.. The exception is obviously if you are slow due to illness or general exhaustion. In that case, take a rest and delay the attempt for a stronger day.”
Image Sources: Wikimedia Commons
Text Sources: New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, Lonely Planet Guides, Library of Congress, Nepal Tourism Board (ntb.gov.np), Nepal Government National Portal (nepal.gov.np), The Guardian, National Geographic, Smithsonian magazine, The New Yorker, Time, Reuters, Associated Press, AFP, Wikipedia and various books, websites and other publications.
Last updated February 2022