JAISALMAR
Jaisalmar (300 kilometers from Jodhpur, near the Pakistani border) is fortified medieval town established in the 12th century. It is known for its women, who cover their arms with bangles and wear bright red and orange fabrics, and extraordinary honey-colored sandstone palaces, forts, temples, and other royal residences, many of which look like something straight out “Arabian Nights.”
Until fairly recently Jaisalmar was only accessible by camel. It was once a major Kyber Pass caravan stop and a proud Thar Desert city ruled by the Bhatti Rajputs. But after it was bypassed by the railroad many of its residents left, which is not such a bad thing from a tourists point because many of the old buildings that would have been knocked to make way for new structures remain intact.
The narrow streets are filled with turbaned men, camels, cows and dogs. Havelis — the stone-carved houses of rich caravan merchants — feature stunning facades with sculptural filigree, screen windows and delicate pavilions. The beautiful stone latticework of the balconies allows both privacy and breezes. Outside a Jain temple with bug-eyed statues are rows of men with typewriters that write letters and do other tasks for the illiterate. The town can be very dusty.
Surrounded by rolling hills, sand dunes and vast barren expanses, of contrasting colors, Jaisalmer contains the still-inhabited Jaisalmer Fort , encircled by 99 bastions and intricately carved temples and is known for its wood carvings, local artistry and rich cultural heritage and performing arts. Jaisalmer has a history dating back to the prehistoric period, which is preserved in the Akal Wood Fossil Park. Tanot Mata Temple, which lies close to the India-Pakistan border, became famous during the 1965 war, when the bombs that fell near it did not explode. It was also been featured in the movie “Border”.
As for the city’s founding, According to legend Rawal Jaisal, the eldest heir of the Rawal of Deoraj, was passed over the throne of Lodurva and his younger half-brother was crowned king. In a quest to redeem himself, he went looking for a new capital when he came across a sage who told him an ancient prophecy. This led to Rawal Jaisal constructing a mud fort in the area in 1156 and naming it Jaisalmer after himself. Jaisalmer literally translates to hill fort of Jaisal.
Getting There: By Air: Jaisalmer Airport is located 17 kilometers from the city center and is connected to other cities. By Road: Jaisalmer is connected by reasonably good roads with all major cities in India. By Train: Jaisalmer is connected by rail with Jodhpur and Delhi which, in turn, are connected to major cities and towns in India.
Tours and Hotels in Jaisalmer
Jonathan D. Rockoff wrote in the Baltimore Sun: “A tour around Jaisalmer's hilltop fortress is worth it. During a half-day walking tour of Jaisalmer's massive hilltop fortress, we saw cows lounging on the twisting cobblestone streets, lazily flapping their tails in the heat. Our guide bought us ladoo — sugary balls of flour, ghee and cardamom — that melted in our dry mouths.” [Source: Jonathan D. Rockoff, Baltimore Sun, December 25, 2005]
“The city's airport, however, has been closed to civilians, so travelers must take either a train, bus or car. With the help of a travel agent, we booked a car and driver for our nine-day tour through Rajasthan. The car and driver cost about $30 a day. To get to Jaisalmer, we drove about five hours from the Rajasthani city of Jodhpur. We stayed two nights in Jaisalmer, then our driver took us to the tent camp in the desert. The camps arrange transportation for travelers without a car...Hotels in Jaisalmer can book the safaris. Our travel agent booked us at Rajasthan Desert Safari Camp.
“Jaisalmer offers a range of hotels, from backpacker havens to five-star resorts. Hotel Killa Bhawan is one of the nicest places inside the hilltop fortress in Jaisalmer. The hotel offers a rooftop view of the fort's massive ramparts, and it has comfortable rooms that employ traditional Rajasthani furniture in an elegant way. Its rooms range from $50 to $65 (91-2992-251204; killabhawan.com). We stayed at Fort Rajwada, a five-star hotel with an impressive marble-and-sandstone lobby. The air-conditioned rooms are well-appointed, with satellite televisions and marble floors and bathrooms. The hotel has a pool and two restaurants. Rooms for two people range from $100 to $250 (91-2992-253233; fortrajwada.com).
Jaisalmer Food And Cuisine
Aloo Baingan is an amazing combination of eggplant and potatoes that make a delicious and flavorful side dish when cooked together with onion, tomatoes and spices. It is best served with hot rotis or Indian flatbread. Dal Baati Churma is made of dal (lentils), baati (wheat bread balls) and churma (sweet powdered cereal), which are served with red chilli along with spicy garlic chutney and dry fruits like cashew, pistachio, almonds and raisins. The wheat bread ball is dipped in pure ghee (clarified butter) and served hot in an earthen pot with a small vessel of dal, red chilli and spicy garlic chutney. It is the signature dish of Rajasthan.
Murgh-e-subz is made by cooking boneless strips of chicken with vegetables and local spices. Kadhi is a traditional dish of Jaisalmer that consists of a thick gravy of chickpea flour, and contains vegetable fritters called pakoras, to which sour yoghurt is added to give it a little sour taste. It is often eaten with boiled rice or roti (Indian flatbread).
Ker Sangri originated from the arid land of Rajasthan. Ker, a shrub berry and sangri, a bean of a flowering tree called Khejari, come together to make this easy-to-prepare dish. This vegetarian delicacy can be best enjoyed with bajara roti. Ker Sangri can be prepared in various ways with every variation making this dish even more delicious. The use of whole, dried red chillies is known to enhance the taste of this dish, which is slightly sour, presumably from the raw mango powder. It has an earthy, deeply natural flavor. The stringy beans are cooked in yoghurt with cashews and raisins.
Shopping in Jaisalmer
The look and feel of shopping in Jaisalmer can be best experienced at Sadar Bazaar. Although the market is famous for its leather goods, one can literally get their hands on anything from paintings, carpets, and handicrafts to jewelry, shoes, and saris. From the most antique souvenirs to the best of silk fabrics, Bhatia Bazaar is a great spot for sari shopping.
Literally translating into an abode of lapidaries, the market of Sonaron-ka-baas is the ultimate place to engage in some jewelry shopping in Jaisalmer. Whether you want to buy gold, silver, or jewelry studded with precious stones, this market is the one stop you absolutely need to visit.
Pansaari Bazaar is considered to be one of the oldest street markets in the city, it is also referred to as the Villager’s market, which is famous for selling items that are ethnic to the core. Though the shops at Manas Chowk may be small in size, there is no dearth of shapes, colors, and variety of souvenirs that you can buy here. Be it traditional clothes, colorful handicrafts, attractive bags, or locally-made leather items, you will be spoilt for choice in this brimming market.
Havelis of Jaisalmer
Havelis are stone mansions made with elaborately-carved facades. Located in the narrow lanes of the main city of Jaisalmer, they are particularly famous for their beautiful architecture. Patwon Ki Haveli, the most elaborate and magnificent of these houses, features incredibly detailed lattice work. The 300-year-old Salim Singh Ki Haveli has a beautifully arched roof with superbly carved brackets in the shape of peacocks. Many of these old houses are still occupied, which helps give the entire city a medieval feel.
Patwon-Ki-Haveli is known for its pretty paintings, intricate carvings and a grandiose style of architecture. The entire complex is not a single haveli but a cluster of five smaller beautiful havelis. The first among these havelis was commissioned and constructed in 1805 by Guman Chand Patwa. There are a few paintings and mirror artwork that adorns the inside walls of this grand mansion. To cater to the visitors interested in the rich cultural history of the area, one of the sections has been converted into a museum that houses several artefacts from the early 19th century. The hardwork and aesthetic skills of the local Rajasthani craftsmen can be seen in every corner of this haveli in the individual depictions and theme on each and every arch. Although the whole building is made in yellow sandstone, the main gateway of the Patwon-ki-haveli is in brown color.
Nathmal-Ki-Haveli is a fine example of the fusion of Islamic and Rajputana styles of architecture. Built by two architect brothers in the 19th century, who started the construction from opposite ends, this palace has similar but non-identical left and right facades. This choreographed asymmetry adds to the architectural beauty of the haveli. Miniature style paintings and mighty tuskers carved out of yellow sandstone were used for decorating the inner chambers of the mansion. The life-size elements are now situated at the entrance and appear to be the guardians of this historic monument. It is easy to see that in Jaisalmer, the haveli was the center of all regional activity as it is now camouflaged amongst various modern houses and narrow lanes, all of which lead to the haveli. Although the haveli is partly-inhabited, you might get a chance to visit the first floor which has paintings beautifully decorated using gold leaf. The Nathmal-ki-haveli was commissioned to serve as the residence of Diwan Mohata Nathmal, the then Prime Minister of Jaisalmer. Maharawal Beri Sal commissioned the construction of this haveli.
Jaisalmar Fort
Jaisalmar Fort is a massive structure with 99 towers and four massive gateways situated around its circumference. Located on top of a 76-meter (250-foot) -high hill in the Thar Desert, this magnificent e fort was set up to provide sanctuary for caravans crossing the Thar Desert. Today the fort contains 5,000 people, about a forth of the old city's population. Among the labyrinth of narrow, dusty streets are temples, mansion and palaces. There is a group of five Jain temples inside the fort that were built between the 11th and 15th century.
Jaisalmar Fort Is part of the Rajasthan Hill Forts UNESCO World Heritage Site. According to UNESCO: “Jaisalmer is an example a hill fort in desert terrain. The extensive township contained within it from the outset, still inhabited today, and the group of Jain temples, make it an important (and in some respects even unique) example of a sacred and secular (urban) fort.” The original fort was built in 1156 by Rajput ruler, Jaisal, and was reinforced by subsequent rulers of Jaisalmer. The fort was the focus of a number of battles between the Bhatis, the Mughals of Delhi and the Rathores of Jodhpur.
Built from yellow sandstone and perched atop the Trikuta Hill (triple peaked hill), this imposing fort seems to rise straight from the desert and its gleaming stone fade gives the impression of it being an extension of the magnificent Thar. The magic of this architectural marvel is best witnessed at sunset when the whole fort seems ablaze as it reflects the light from the setting sun. The fort is known for its elaborately carved structure called Raj Mahal, the residence of the Jaisalmar royal family and the beautiful Jain and Laxminath temples inside. The fort also caught the interest of Oscar winning Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray, who featured it in one of his films “Sonar Quila” (“The Golden Fortress”).
Tourism at Jaisalmer Fort
Anika Gupta wrote in Smithsonian Magazine: “Jaisalmer Fort maintains a silent vigil in the far northwestern corner of Rajasthan, India's desert state. Although the local airport is closed to commercial traffic, nearly half a million visitors somehow make their way to the fortress each year, even though it sits uncomfortably close to a contested border with India's longtime adversary Pakistan. The pilgrims follow a 400-mile-long road from Jaipur. They drive through fierce desert winds that blow all the way to Delhi. In summer, they endure 105-degree heat. They come to an area where, for the past 2,000 years, water has been in short supply. They come because there is no other place on earth like Jaisalmer. [Source: Anika Gupta, Smithsonian Magazine, March 2009]
“Built in 1156 by the Indian King Rawal Jaisal, the fort is on a site that legend says he chose on the advice of a wise local hermit. In the Indian epic poem the Mahabharata, the mystic tells Jaisal that the Hindu deity Lord Krishna had praised the spot — and therefore, a fort built there would be almost invisible to the king's enemies. Indeed, from 30 miles away, visitors see only a sheer golden cliff, rising nearly 25 stories from the desert floor. The walls, of rich yellow sandstone unique to Rajasthan's quarries, shimmer like a mirage.
“The fort's main gate, 60 feet tall and carved from Indian rosewood, has a crack that, according to legend, appeared when a Hindu saint crossed the threshold. Three concentric rings of sandstone walls open onto homes, stables and palaces that once housed Rajput kings. In contrast to the plain walls, these bear elaborate designs. Carvings of chariot wheels, fruit and flowers emerge from soft marble. Scalloped archways guard the walkways between buildings. Ornamented screens shade royal apartments.
“"Rajput forts were not easy to build," says Vikramaditya Prakash, an architecture professor at the University of Washington. "The palaces and temples are filigreed in unbelievable detail." Although it has been generations since any Rajput kings ruled here, Jaisalmer Fort still houses some 2,000 residents, which makes it India's last "living fort." (India's other famous forts are abandoned, except for tourist guides.) This, too, draws visitors to Jaisalmer.”
Jaisalmar Fort Conservation
Jaisalmer Fort fort has withstood earthquakes and sandstorms for almost millenia, but is now decaying from the strains of urban life and tourism. Anika Gupta wrote in Smithsonian Magazine: “During the past 20 years, the sandstone blocks of Jaisalmer Fort, immune to the elements for nearly a millennia, have begun to shift and crumble. And no one can agree why it's happening or who is to blame. "The basic problem is the sewage system in the fort," says Luca Borella, who moved to Jaisalmer from France in 1994 and now owns a nine-room heritage hotel here. "The government built it quickly and without study." Borella says the sewage system leaks water directly into the fort's foundations. He and other residents have called upon the Indian government to repair it. [Source: Anika Gupta, Smithsonian Magazine, March 2009]
“Jaisalmer's tourist boom has only made matters worse. According to local government estimates, the hotels, restaurants and shops that dot the historic ridges import nearly 50,000 gallons of water daily. This water then flows into the sewage system's already-overstressed open drains. Some international heritage foundations, such as the World Monuments Fund, are urging both tourists and residents to scale back their water use — especially public taps that dispense running water — if they want the fort to survive the next 1,000 years.
“Asheesh Srivastava, a conservation architect with the Lucknow, India-based firm ANB Consultants, has surveyed Jaisalmer and agrees the sewage system needs to be redesigned. But he argues that global climate change is the primary culprit. "In an arid region that was not designed to face rainfall, we are now facing rainfall," says Srivastava. When Jaisalmer was built, the Thar Desert received six to nine inches of rain per year. In the summer of 2007, 22 inches of rain fell in just three days. Although some would consider increased rainfall a blessing for such an arid region, it can be a headache for preservationists. When Raja Jaisal's workers built Jaisalmer in the 12th century, they topped many of the buildings with three feet of mud as insulation to keep interiors cool. Now the rains turn the roofs to sludge, which causes buildings to collapse.
“Jaisalmer's slow decline became a matter of urgency on January 26, 2001, when a 7.7 magnitude earthquake struck near Jamnagar, a town in the coastal state of Gujarat, about 200 miles away. The tremors shook the foundations of the fort. "The buildings transfer load vertically," says Srivastava. "Every lateral movement damages the fortress." After the quake, Srivastava and a team of engineers and surveyors from the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage went to the fort to assess the damage. The engineers rebuilt damaged outer walls with golden sandstone dug from nearby quarries and even employed the services of a camel to grind lime plaster with its hooves, according to the traditional method. To guard against damage from future tremors, they shored up weakened roof beams and inserted copper pins in the walls to protect against lateral thrust.
“Srivastava and his group kept residents apprised of the restoration work through town meetings, but many Jaisalmer inhabitants remain dubious. Some fear the Indian National Trust will be satisfied only once all commercial activity at the fort has ceased. Others worry that the government might force them to relocate.
“At the moment, Srivastava is working with another team to renovate the fort's largest structure, the granary. Built from four different types of stone, it once held enough grain to feed the fort's residents for 12 years. Once renovations are complete, local authorities hope to turn the granary into a spice museum where visitors can see samples of the pungent fenugreek, cumin and asafetida — still common in Indian cooking — that Rajputs added to food to preserve it. Other cultural projects, such as an amphitheater to showcase Rajput music, are also under consideration. These initiatives will take time, but time is something this fort understands. For generations, it provided Rajput kings with a haven from their enemies and the harsh desert climate. Now it is up to residents, architects and heritage groups to protect it.”
Near Jaisalmer
Sights around Jaisalmar include Gharisar, which once supplied water to the city. The temples and archways around it were built by a courtesan. Amar Sagar has the ruins of a once-beautiful garden located on the banks of a lake which is usually dry in the summer months. Sam (50 kilometers away), the home of Desert National Park, is know for the Sam Sand Dunes and desert festival, and Lodurva (16 kilometers away) contains the ruins of an old capital and several Jain temples. Most people who make it to the Thar Desert take an evening's camel ride into the desert and watch the sunset, then return to their hotels in Jaisalmer.
Gadsisar Lake (just outside the Jaisalmar city walls of Jaisalamr) is a lake that is often small and largely dry. It is a popular picnic spot anyway, owing to its view of Jaisalmer Fort from, especially when it turns in golden hues at sunrise. The lake was once the sole reservoir that controlled the entire supply of water to the arid city of Jasialmer! Located in the southern part of the city, the entrance to the lake is marked by beautifully carved yellow stone archway known as Tilon-ki-Pol. Contrary to the popular belief, it is not an oasis but a water conservation tank made around 1400 by the then maharaja of Jaisalmer, Maharwal Gadsi Singh. At present Gadisar Lake gets water from Indira Gandhi Canal so it never dries.
Lodhruva (five kilometers northwest of ) is a deserted set of ruins famous for a Jain temple and a wishing tree called Kalp Vriksh. The temple is dedicated to the 23rd tirthankar (saint), Parshwanath. The architectural beauty of the temple can be seen on each finely carved stone that was used to construct it. The intricate stone carvings and large, spacious interiors make for a pleasant and relaxing time at the complex, which has been reinstated to it's pristine condition after extensive repairs and restorative work carried out over the years. Lodhruva is said to be the setting of the doomed-love story of Princess Mumal and Mahendra, the prince of Aamarkot, recounted in local folklore and songs across the region. Ludruva is known as the ancient capital of Jaisalmer.
Kuldhara