TIAN SHAN MOUNTAINS: GEOLOGY, CLIMBS, HIKES, PIK POBEDA, COUNTRIES

TIAN SHAN MOUNTAINS

Central Tian Shan mountain range with 7,010-meter-high (23,000 foot-high) Khan Tengri in the center; Taken on the flight from Urumqi to Bishkek, Jengish Chokusu (Mt Pobeda) can be seen clearly

The Tian Shan (Tien Shan) is a formidable mountain range in Central Asia and one of the great mountain ranges of the world. Extending in a northeast-southwest direction along the border between China and Central Asia from the Altai area — where Mongolia, Russia and China all come together — to the Pamir Range in the Tajikstan and southwest China. The highest point is 7439-meter (24,406-foot) -high Pobeda Peak in Kyrgyzstan. The most impressive mountain — and highest point of Kazakhstan — is Khan-Tengri peak (6995 meters, 22,950 feet) in on the Kazakhstan-Kyrgyzstan border.

The Tian Shan are lovely mountains with some of Central Asia and China's most beautiful scenery: towering cliffs, massive glaciers, snow-capped peaks, mountain streams, sweet-smelling spruce forests, boulder-strewn gullies and deep gorges. The name "Tian Shan" means "celestial mountains" in Chinese. The northern The Tian Shan mountains are is located in the southeastern part of Kazakhstan. The Western Tian Shan runs along the Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border in the Almaty and Bishkek areas and extends all the way to Uzbekistan. region. The Central Tian Shan runs from central Kyrgyzstan to China. The Eastern Tian Shan is in western China. The entire range extends about 300 kilometers from north to south.

By some reckonings the Tian Shan is the largest system of mountains in Asia outside of the Himalayas, The range cover an area of roughly 1,036,000 square kilometers (400,000 square miles), which makes them comparable in size to the American Rocky Mountains. The range is around 2414 kilometers (1500 miles) in length and 320 to 480 kilometers (200 to 300 miles) wide. Alpine glaciers, some of which are up to 19 kilometers (12 miles) long, are common on the steep eastern slopes. These glaciers feed many of Kazakhstan's river systems. The southern slopes of the range are arid except where the Ili River flows between two branches of the mountain range. Highland meadows create natural pastures on the northern slopes of the Tian Shan at elevations around 3,000 feet (900 meters). [Source: Geo-Data: The World Geographical Encyclopedia, Gale Group Inc., 2003]

Of the five mountains that exceed altitudes of 7000 meters in ex-USSR territories, three are found in Kyrgyzstan. The Pobeda Peak (at 7439 meters) is the highest and most difficult to climb, due to unpredictable weather conditions. The second highest peak, Lenin (at 7134 meters), on the other hand, is the most accessible. Khan Tengri (at 7010 meters) is on the world climbers’ elite list. In the view of climbers from Russia and in the former Soviet Union every self-respecting mountaineer must climb this peak, at least once in their life.

The Tian Shan were first described by the 7th century Chinese explorer Xuan Zang who spent seven days crossing a snowbound pass, where half of the 14 people in his party froze to death. The first European to extensively explore the central Tian Shan was the Russian explorer Pyotr Semyonov who traveled extensively in the region in 1856.

Geology and Ecology of the Tian Shan

Tian Shan mountains in Kyrgyzstan, along the border Kazakhstan-Kyrgyzstan, in Tajikstan and southwest China

The Tian Shan are characterized by sharp crests underlined by grey-turquoise glaciers and dazzling Alpine lakes. Alpine meadows join with forests and tundra. The Tian Shan are not as high as the Himalayas but they are almost as high. The peaks are between 4,000 and 7,000 meters high and are covered by snow and ice. Some mountains resemble peaks in the Alps. The Tian Shan contains the most northerly mountains above 7,000 meters, which means that there are huge glaciers and these glaciers extend to a lower elevation than on mountains further south.

The Tian Shan are geologically young, so that the physical terrain is marked by sharply uplifted peaks separated by deep valleys. There is also considerable glaciation. Kyrgyzstan's 6,500 distinct glaciers are estimated to hold about 650 billion cubic meters of water. The Tian Shan were uplifted and folded during the Paleozoic era. Deep faulting of their primarily sedimentary rock has been responsible for frequent, severe earthquakes along the rim of this range.

The Tian Shan Mountains are home to several dramatic gorges, including the Big Almaty Lake Gorge, the Ozyomy Gorge, the Prokhodnoi Gorge, and the Turgen Gorge, which is known for its seven waterfalls. The Charyn Canyon, located in the northern Tian Shan, has been compared to the Grand Canyon in the United States due to its walls, which rise from 150 to 300 meters (492 to 984 feet). In addition to its size, the canyon is known for its unusually shaped caves and grottoes. [Source: Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of Physical Geography, Gale Group, Inc., 2003]

location of the Tian Shan, Dialogue Earth

The Tian Shan are part of the great mountain group that includes the Himalayas, Karakoram, Hindu Kush and Kulun mountains. All of these young mountains have been produced by the collision of the Indian subcontinent into the Asian land mass, which began about 50 million years ago. The Tian Shan are rising at a rate of about 10 millimeters a year. By some reckonings the Tian Shan is a spur of the Pamirs. Both the Tian Shan and Pamirs are connected with the Karokorum, Himalayas and Hindu Kush mountains.

Ibex, Marco Polo sheep and snow leopard roam in Tian Shan mountains. Other wild life found in the Tian Shan and the Lake Issyk-Kul area include wild boar, marmots, ibis, manul, Himalayan, snowcock, wild geese, pheasants, partridges and wild turkeys. Some guest houses serve ibex meat.

Western Tian Shan: Spurs, Branches and Valleys

Western Tian Shan was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in. 2016. According to UNESCO: “The transnational property is located in the Tian Shan mountain system, one of the largest mountain ranges in the world. Western Tian Shan ranges in altitude from 700 to 4,503 meters. It features diverse landscapes, which are home to exceptionally rich biodiversity. It is of global importance as a centre of origin for a number of cultivated fruit crops and is home to a great diversity of forest types and unique plant community associations. [Source: UNESCO, World Heritage Site, 2016]

Kungey Alatau is a another spur of the Tian Shan that extends for the Zailiysky Alatau into northern Kyrgyzstan and also defines part of the border between southeast Kazakhstan and northeast Kyrgyzstan. The Kyrgyz Alatau is yet another spurt. It extends from Taraz to Bishkek and provides a backdrop for Bishkek. The Kungey Alatau and Kyrgyz Alatau also feature snow-capped peaks, wild rivers pine forest, high altitude pastures and numerous hiking routes.

Karkara Valley (240 kilometers east of Almaty and 100 kilometers from Karakol, east of Lake Issyk-Kul, in Kyrgyzstan) is set around the Kanaka River which runs along the border of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan for about 40 kilometers. Reportedly used by Tamerlane as his summer headquarters, it contains large pastures used by Kazakh and Kyrgyz herders. During the summer many herders bring their animals here and the valley is dotted with yurts. The Chabana festival with traditional horse-mounted sports is held here in June. There are no towns or even houses, Bring a tent and become a nomad yourself. Kegen and Karkara are the two closet towns to the region.

Zailiy Alatau

central Tian Shan behind alpine meadows, with 5,697-meter-high (18,691-foot-high) Nansen Peak in the middle

Zailiy Alatau is an impressive mountain range which defines part of the border between southeast Kazakhstan and northeast Kyrgyzstan. A spur of the Tian Shan, it boasts many 4,000 meter-high peaks that are snow-capped year round, glaciers, wild rivers and refreshing pine forest. Mountains from this range form a backdrop for Almaty and provide high altitude pastures for shepherds and herders. There are numerous hiking routes.

The central part of the Zailiy Alatau is the home of Talgar peak (4979 meters), the highest point of the Talgar plexus of mountains. One peculiarity of the Talgar and Issyk rivers is they are shallow but are so fast-flowing and turbulent they grind away surrounding rocks and wash away huge boulders.

There are two main trekking routes in the Zailiysky Alatau between southern Kazakhstan and Lake Issyk-Kul in Kyrgyzstan. Each takes about five days and is difficult to negotiate without a guide or good maps and map-reading skills.

The route is between 2500-meter-high Bolshoe Almatinskoe Lake in southern Kazakhstan and Grigorievka on Lake Issyk-Kul in Kyrgyzstan. This route crosses 3507-meter-high Ozyorny Pass on the Zailiysky Alatau and 4052-meter-high Aksu Pass on the Kungey Alatau. The trail ascends and descends between passes, ridges and rivers and passes through Chong-Kemin valley, used in the summer by yurt-dwelling herders and described as one of the loveliest spots in this region.

The second route is between Kolshoky southern Kazakhstan and Chong-Sary-Or on Lake Issyk-Kul in Kyrgyzstan. This route crosses 3600-meter-high Almaty (Prokhodnoy) Pass on the Zailiysky Alatau and 3889-meter-high Kok-Ayryk Pass on the Kungey Alatau. The trail ascends and descends between passes, ridges and rivers and passes by lakes and summer pastures.

Between the mountains are canyons and valleys filed with dense evergreen forests, meadows covered by are wild flowers and colorful birds, and lush summer pastures known in Kyrgyz as jailoo, where nomadic horsemen tend flocks of sheep, live in yurts, hunt with eagles, and drink fermented mare's milk. Jailoo is also spelled jaylo and is known as yaylak in Russian and ailoq or jawlaw in Kazakh.

Central Tian Shan

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Tian Shan mountainsCentral Tian Shan is the highest and most awesome part of the Tian Shan. Situated where Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China all come together, but mostly in Kyrgyzstan, this regions is full of huge glaciers, numerous over 5,000 meter high and some 6,000 and 7,000 meters high. It more of a place for mountaineers than hikers. Often the only to get in is by helicopter.

Because of the altitude, weather and cold, July and August are the only times of the year it makes sense to visit the area. Most people are helicoptered in although it is possible to reach the by jeep or by foot. Much of the area lies with a sensitive military zone because of it nearness to the Chinese border. For these reasons it is a difficult place to visit on your own. You will probably need to organize a trip through a travel agency in Kyrgyzstan that specializes in adventure travel, trekking and mountaineering.

According to Bradt Guides: “The corner of the Kyrgyz Republic that wedges itself between Kazakh and Chinese territory to the east of Karakol is indisputably the country’s wildest and least accessible region. It is in this region that superlatives abound: the highest mountains, the coldest temperatures, the longest glaciers, the grizzliest mountaineers and the strangest natural phenomena. This is a region of ice, snow and unexplored peaks – too high and inhospitable even for most hardy Kyrgyz nomads. It is home to Kyrgyzstan’s highest peak (the second highest in the former USSR), the world’s fourth longest glacier, an amazing disappearing lake and, if you believe in that sort of thing, the remote location for the crash landing of a giant UFO.

“Unlike the valleys closer to Karakol this is no place for gentle mountain hikes and is really only for committed, experienced mountaineers and those who avail themselves of the support services of guides and porters. Whatever the degree of tactical support enlisted, fitness and stamina are essential. Visiting the area requires a considerable commitment of time, energy and money, but those returning from time spent trekking in the region invariably insist that it is well worth it.”

Mountain Climbing in the Tian Shan

Garth Willis of alpinefund.org wrote: There is tremendous potential for new routes in the Tien San. A large collection of 5,000-meter and 6,000-meter peaks rarely see ascents, and those only by the most obvious line. Neglected peaks include the Peak of Military Topographers, Chapaeva, and Gorkova, to name just a few. These peaks can be reached from the same base camps used for climbs on Khan Tengri and Pobeda. Peaks in the nearby Kaindy region require a longer approach and involve special travel arrangements. [Source: Garth Willis, alpinefund.org, July 2004 ]

According to Summit Post: No permits are currently required in climbing in Kyrgyzstan (the government abolished them a couple of years ago). Anyone who wants to visit the border areas of the Central Tian Shan however requiers a Propusk (this Russian term translates to Military Border Permit). The Propusk is available through Khirgiz travel agencies and will cost about 30 Euros. The border permit requires your passport number and there is usually a soldier-type person checking this piece of paper at the camps so don't leave without it and keep it in a safe place. [Source: Big Lee, summitpost.org, April 2001 ]

The climbing season on the high peaks is very short, lasting only about six weeks from mid-July to the end of August. For climbs below 6,000 meters, September provides stable weather and easier river crossings. Outside this period conditions on the mountain are often severe. Due to Khan Tengri being the most northerly 7000m peak it receives little shelter from northerly winds and hurricanes are not uncommon. The Inylchek weather station has several times in history recorded the lowest temperatures on earth during the Northern winter meaning a winter ascent is only for masochists. Some consider an ascent of Khan Tengri or Pobeda on par with an 8000m peak in terms of conditions indicating severity. A winter ascent has been proved not to be impossible though and a Kazakh expedition managed to summit during the winter of 2002/2003.

Inylchek Glacier

Inylchek Glacier (50 kilometers east of the village of Engilchek) is an immense 60-kilometer-long glacier that flows out of both sides of Khan Tengri and embraces a ridge of sawtooth mountains and tributary glaciers. The South Inylchek Glacier is the sixth longest non-polar glacier in the world and is the largest and fastest moving glacier in Kyrgyzstan. The main glacier has two arms, the North and South Engilchek Glaciers. The latter is longer and provides an overall length of 60.5 kilometers (38 miles), with an area of 17.2 square kilometers (seven square miles) and an ice thickness of roughly 150–200 meters in the bottom parts. The glacier stems from the Chinese-Kazakh-Kyrgyz massif of Khan Tengri and Pik Pobeda and the upper part of the glacier falls in all three countries. Meltwater from the glacier feeds a tributary of the Aksu River, which crosses the Chinese border into the Tarim Basin. Water from this glacier also feeds the seasonal glacial Lake Merzbacher which ultimately flows into the Engilchek River. [Source: Wikipedia]

Garth Willis of the alpinefund.org wrote: The Enylchek (or Inycheck) Glacier is one of the world’s largest glaciers; its south fork extends 62 kilometers. The north fork, lying in Kazakhstan, leads to the base camps for the northern approach to Khan Tengri.Near the head of the south fork, two peaks, Khan Tengri (“Lord of the Spirits”—about 7,000 meters) and Pik Pobeda (“Victory”—7,439 meters) receive almost all of the climbing traffic. [Source: Garth Willis, alpinefund.org, July 2004 ]

Merzbacher Lake (on the northern arm of Inylchek Glacier) is a spectacular iceberg filled lake situated at 3,300 meters. The lake consists of two part, one lower and one upper. Usually twice a year, during the summer and the winter, the lower pool that is surrounded by glacial dam fully drains into Inylchek River through sub-glacial channels and, mysteriously, fills up again.

The water in the lower lake usually drains in early August, when it explodes into the Inylchek River by escaping through subglacial tunnels or breaking through the top of the glacier. The lake sits between two glaciers. When it empties it leaves behind huge boulders of ice. The upper portions, protected by an ice wall, always remains full.

Trekking and Getting to Inylchek Glacier

The trek to Inylchek Glacier (45 miles east of Karakol) begins in the village of Jyrgalang and requires about five days to reach Inylchek Glacier. Trekkers cross a 2800-meter-high pass, a 3648-meter-high pass, a 3723-meter-high pass before reaching 4001-meter-high Tuz pass, where there are stunning views of Inylchek Glacier and Khan Tengri. From Tuz pass you descend to Chong-Tash at the end of glacier.

To advance further you need mountaineering skill and guides. Destinations include Merzbacher lake, various base camps, and the Zvozdochka glacier at the foot of Pik Pobeda. With crampons trekkers can climb 4832-meter-high Mt. Diky and 4901-meter-high Pesni Abaji. The trek is shortened if you start from Kensu Yak Farm. There is a four hour, 160-kilometer 100 all-weather road from Karakol to the snout of Inycheck Glacier that passes through the now largely deserted, mining town of Inylchek at the end of the Inylchek valley, there is a meteorological station.

According to Willis: “Getting to Enylchek from Bishkek requires a two-day drive via the city of Kara Kol to Maida-Adyr. From there it is a 30-minute helicopter flight above the South Enylchek Glacier to the base camps at 4,100 meters. There are several sites, and various companies establish their base camps all within a few hours’ walk from one other.An alternative to the helicopter is a four-day walk up the glacier. Some groups put their supplies on the helicopter and choose to walk as a way to save money and acclimatize. Prices vary, but a one-way helicopter trip with gear cost about $150 in 2004. Base camps are located on the glacier moraine between the summits of Khan Tengri and Pobeda. Several companies share services here, including e-mail, a sauna, meals, and porter service. Most companies provide food at the camps, while climbers are responsible for high altitude provisions. This is one of the world’s best bargains for a 7,000-meter peak. Full-service expeditions, Bishkek to Bishkek, cost just over $1200 in 2004.

Package tours to the Inylchek Glacier area generally include: 1) Airport transfer and accommodation in either Bishkek or Almaty; 2) Transfer to and from Kakara; 3) Tent accommodation (with mattress) and food at Kakara; 4) Helicopter flights to and from base camp; 5) Tent accommodation (with mattress), three meals and drink in a mess tent, and sauna at base camp; 6) Border permit. An alternative is to just take the helicopter and bring all your own tent and food and secure your won permits..

Khan Tengri

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Khan Tengri (border of Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan) is 7,010 meters (22,998 feet) high and has an impressive sheer, rock face. The fifth highest mountain in the former Soviet Union, it attracts climbers from all over the world. Khan-Tengri means “Prince of Spirits.” Locals call it “Blood mountain” because of the color of the rock face in the setting sun.. It is a challenge for experienced mountaineers.

Khan Tengri is the most northerly seven-thousander in the world (peaks over 7,000 meters). Since ancient times, this mountain, which is crowned by a pyramid of marble, has been shrouded in legend. Other names it has been called include Tengritau (Mountain God). Khan Tengri is part of the Central Tian Shan. To the west, an array of ridges extend from Khan-Tengri. The largest of them is Terskey Tau. On its eastern branch is the border between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.

Khan Tengri is the highest peak in Kazakhstan. Only its northern part is located in Kazakhstan. Climbers call the route here the “Northern wall”. The ascent to the mountain is very complicated and can be completed only by professional or highly-skilled mountain climbers. The base camp is 40 kilometers south of Kegan, Kazakhstan.

Pik Pobeda

Pik Pobeda (border of Kyrgyzstan and China) is 7,436 meters (24,406 feet) high and regarded as a serious challenge for experienced mountaineers. Situated across Inylchek Glacier from Khan Tengri and also known as Jengish Chokusu and spelled Pik Pobedy, it is the second highest peak in the former Soviet Union and is one of the most northerly mountains above 7,000 meters, which means that its glaciers are huge and extend to a lower elevation than on mountains further south.

The nasty weather is what makes it so difficult to climb. The climbing season is short and often disrupted by frequent, powerful storms. There are avalanches almost everyday. The most dangerous slopes are between 16,000 and 19,000 feet. This is where avalanches often strike.

Pik Pobeda means Victory Peak. It was so named in 1946 to commemorate the victory of the Soviet Union in World War II. The summit wasn’t reached until 1956. As of 1986, 180 climbers had reached the summit and 45 climbers had died trying. Eleven died in a blizzard in 1955. Even when the weather is good climbers die. This was the case in 1984 when six climbers died.

Pik Pobeda (Jengish Chokusu (Victory Peak), Southern Inylchek Glacier, Tien Shan

Climbers are generally brought in by helicopter to the camp on the Inylchek Glacier beneath Pik Pobeda. Once on the main slopes climbers move through waist deep snow and have to periodically dig test pits in the snow to gauge the dangers of avalanches. Near the summit climbers occasionally see the frozen bodies of climber who didn’t make it down.

Garth Willis of alpinefund.org wrote: Pik Pobeda, on the west side of Enylchek Glacier, is a monstrous peak that often goes several seasons without a successful climb. The mountain has the distinction of being the undisputed northernmost 7,000-meter peak in the world. It is a forbidding mountain, and countless Soviet climbers have lost their lives on its long, exposed ridges. The classic route on Pobeda is not as aesthetically pleasing as the route on Khan Tengri. It begins well to the east of the summit, then traverses at 7,000 meters along the eastern ridge; a final camp is set at 7,100 meters before one reaches the actual summit. [Source: Garth Willis, alpinefund.org, July 2004 ]

“Many parties are turned back by high winds. An alternative is the original Abalakov route, which takes a direct line from the glacier at 4,100 meters.Vitaly Abalakov, the “Father of Soviet Mountaineering,” made the first ascent of this peak in 1943 by this route. Due to ice fall and avalanches, few parties now attempt this route. In 2003 a Russian team put up a new route on the north face of the east ridge.”

Tian Shan in Kyrgystan

The Tien Shan Mountains run northeast to define the country's eastern border with China; Kyrgyzstan's southern border with Tajikistan follows the Trans Alai Range along the northernmost part of the Pamirs. The highest point in the Tien Shan — Jengish Chokusu, (Pik Pobedy, Victory Peak; 7,439 meters, 24,406 feet) is the highest peak in Kyrgyzstan. [Source: Geo-Data: The World Geographical Encyclopedia, Gale Group Inc., 2003]

A series of secondary mountain ranges are considered part of the Tien Shan system. In Kyrgyzstan these include the Ala Tau, running generally east to west across northern Kyrgyzstan. Another chain, the central Fergana Mountains, runs southeast to northwest.

Xinjiang Tianshan

The Xinjiang Tianshan was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2013. According to UNESCO: “Xinjiang Tianshan comprises four components — Tomur, Kalajun-Kuerdening, Bayinbukuke and Bogda — that total 606,833 hectares. They are part of the Tianshan mountain system of Central Asia, one of the largest mountain ranges in the world. Xinjiang Tianshan presents unique physical geographic features and scenically beautiful areas including spectacular snow and snowy mountains glacier-capped peaks, undisturbed forests and meadows, clear rivers and lakes and red bed canyons. These landscapes contrast with the vast adjacent desert landscapes, creating a striking visual contrast between hot and cold environments, dry and wet, desolate and luxuriant. The landforms and ecosystems of the site have been preserved since the Pliocene epoch and present an outstanding example of ongoing biological and ecological evolutionary processes. The site also extends into the Taklamakan Desert, one of the world’s largest and highest deserts, known for its large dune forms and great dust storms. Xinjiang Tianshan is moreover an important habitat for endemic and relic flora species, some rare and endangered. [Source: UNESCO]

“Xinjiang Tianshan is a serial property consisting of four components totaling 606,833 hectares, with buffer zones totaling 491,103 hectares located in the People’s Republic of China in the Xinjiang Tianshan, the eastern portion of the Tianshan mountain range. The four components are located along the 1,760 kilometers of the Xinjiang Tianshan, a temperate arid zone surrounded by Central Asian deserts. The property was nominated under criterion (vii) for its outstanding beauty and superlative natural features and criterion (ix) for capturing a range of biological and ecological processes.

“The Xinjiang Tianshan is anchored in the west by the highest peak in the Tianshan, Tomur Peak at 7,443 meters, and in the east by Bogda Peak at 5,445 meters. The range lies between two Central Asian deserts, Junggar Desert in the north and the Tarim Desert in the south. The beauty of the Xinjiang Tianshan lies not only in its spectacular snow-capped mountains and glacier-capped peaks, beautiful forests and meadows, clear rivers and lakes and red bed canyons, but also in the combination and contrast between the mountain elements and the vast deserts. The stark difference of bare rocks on its south slope and luxuriant forest and meadow on the north creates a striking visual contrast of environments which are hot and cold, dry and wet, desolate and luxuriant — and of exceptional beauty.

Image Sources: Wikimedia Commons

Text Sources: New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, Times of London, Lonely Planet Guides, Library of Congress, U.S. government, Compton’s Encyclopedia, The Guardian, National Geographic, Smithsonian magazine, The New Yorker, Time, Newsweek, Reuters, AP, AFP, Wall Street Journal, The Atlantic Monthly, The Economist, Foreign Policy, Wikipedia, BBC, CNN, and various books, websites and other publications.

Last updated July 2026