HALONG BAY AND THE BOAT TRIPS TO ENJOY IT

HALONG BAY

HALONG BAY (165 kilometers and three hours by minibus southeast of Hanoi) is one of the most spectacular sights in Asia. Featured in the film Indochina , with French actress Catherine Denueve, it contains stunning vegetation-covered karst pinnacles, towers and formations set in calm emerald green water. The oriental junks—and the pseudo tourist-junks— and small fishing boats that ply the narrow channels between the island, makes the bay look like something straight out of a oriental landscape painting.

Located in the Gulf of Tonkin, 40 miles east of Haiphong, and spread out over roughly 1,500 square kilometers, Halong Bay embraces several thousand strangely-shaped limestone islets and is reminiscent of Phanang Bay in Thailand and Guilin in China. It forms a spectacular seascape of limestone pillars. Because of their precipitous nature, most of the islands are uninhabited and unaffected by a human presence. The site's outstanding scenic beauty is complemented by its great biological interest.

The names of the islands—Cockfight Islet, Respected Lady, Islet of the Toad, Laughing Dog Wall, Dome Islet, Head of Buffalo Island, Buddha Praying Island, and Island of the Great Ape—give some hint of what they look like. In recent years the karst towers and stalactite caves in the bay have become a magnet for Western rock climbers in search of new thrills. The bay is also home to a mollusk that produces extremely rare orange pearls and, purportedly, a sea monster called the Tarasque.

Halong Bay has been called by the great national poet Nguyen Trai: "a marvel of the earth erected towards the high skies". While exploring the bay, tourists will feel lost in a legendary world of stone islands which shapes change depending on the angle and the light. According to UNESCO: “There are many names given to islands according to their shapes and forms such as Hon Dau Nguoi (Human Head Islet), Hon Rong (Dragon Islet), Hon Canh Buom (Sail Islet), Hon Trong Mai (Cock and Hen Islet)… But the beauty of Halong Bay does not consist only in the forms of its mountains, islands and the colour of its waters, but also in its infinitely rich system of grottoes and caves such as: Thien Cung (Heavenly Palace Grotto), Dau Go (Driftwood Grotto), Sung Sot (Surprise Grotto), Tam Cung (Three Palace Grotto), Trinh Nu (Virgin Grotto)…. Each is a grandiose and refined natural architectural creation.”

Halong means "dragon descending to the sea." According to legend the islands were created by a giant dragon and its children as they escaped from mountain lair underneath the ocean to rescue the Vietnamese from Chinese invaders. The Halong Bay area is closely linked to Vietnam’s history with such famous geographical names as: Van Don (site of an ancient commercial port); Poem Mountain (with engravings of many poems by emperors and other famous people of the past); and Bach Dang River (the location of two fierce naval battles fought against foreign aggressors). This is not all, Halong has been proven by scientists to be one of the first cradles of human existence in the area, with such archaeological sites as Dong Mang, Xich Tho, Soi Nhu and Thoi Gien,

The waters of Halong Bay are inhabited by nomad-like fishermen, who live in "floating villages" of 30 or vessels, and prosper or endure depending n how many fish, crabs, squid and prawns they catch. They spend their time fishing, repairing nets and hopping from boat to boat. Sometimes they go for weeks without ever setting foot on land. Their needs are met by traveling salesmen and women who paddle from boat to boat selling charcoal, fruit, vegetables, pots and pans, and other items.

In 1994, Halong Bay was recognized by UNESCO as a World Natural Heritage Site for its natural beauty. In 2000, it was recognised by UNESCO as a World Natural Heritage for the second time based on its geological value. The recognised site covers an area of 434 square kilometers, comprises 775 islands and forms a triangle: with Dau Go Island (Driftwood Grotto) to the west; Ba Ham Lake (Three Shelter Lake) to the south and Cong Tay Island to the east.

GEOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY OF HA LONG BAY

Situated in the north-east region of Viet Nam, Halong Bay is a part of Bac Bo Gulf and comprises the sea area of Halong City, Cam Pha Town and a part of Van Don island district, Quang Ninh Province. It borders Cat Ba Island to the southwest, the mainland to the west with a 120 kilometers-long coastline.

Most of the islands and islets are uninhabitated and unaffected by humans. They form a spectacular seascape of limestone pillars and is an ideal model of a mature Karst landscape developed during a warm and wet tropical climate. The arches, sheer cliffs, towers, pinnacles and formations where created by wind and water erosion of rock created in an ancient seabed.

The drowned limestone karst landforms displays spectacular pillars with a variety of coastal erosional features such as arches and caves which form a majestic natural scenery. The repeated regression and transgression of the sea on the limestone karst over geological time has produced a mature landscape of clusters of conical peaks and isolated towers which were modified by sea invasion, adding an extra elemant to the process of lateral undercutting of the limstone towers and islands.

Halong Bay covers a total area of 1,553 square kilometers, including 1,969 islands of various sizes, 989 of which have been given names. The number climbs into the thousands if islets and rocks of various sizes are included. There are two kinds, limestone and schist, which are concentrated in two main zones: the south-east (belonging to Bai Tu Long Bay) and the south-west (belonging to Halong Bay). The average geological age of the islands is between 250 and 280 million years old. [Source: UNESCO]

Halong Bay is the most extensive and best known example of marine-invaded tower karst in the world. Ha Long Bay is one of the world’s most important areas of Fengcong (clusters of conical peaks) and Fenglin (isolated tower features) karst. Abundant lakes, occupying drowned dolines, are one of the distinctive features of the Fencong karst, with some appearing to be tidal. Possessing a tremendous diversity of caves and other landforms derived from the unusual geomorphological process of marine invaded tower karst the caves are of three main types: remnants of phreatic caves; old karstic foot caves and marine notch caves. Ha Long Bay displays the full range of karst formation processes on a very large scale and over a very long period of geological time, possessing the most complete and extensive example of its type in the world and providing a unique and extensive reservoir of data for the future understanding of geoclimatic history and the nature of karst processes in a complex environment.

The most remarkable geological events of Halong Bay’s history in the last 1,000 years include the advance of the sea, the raising of the bay area and the strong erosion that has formed coral and pure blue and heavily-salted water. This process of erosion by sea water has deeply engraved the stone, contributing to its fantastic beauty. Present-day Halong Bay is the result of this long process of geological evolution that has been influenced by so many factors. It is because of all these factors that the tourists now visiting Halong Bay are not only treated to one of the true wonders of the world, but also to a precious geological museum that has been naturally preserved in the open air for the last 300 million years.

The geomorphology of Ha Long Bay is known as a drowned karst landscape due to the exceptional combination of its limestone karst features which have been subject to repeated regression and transgression of the sea over geological time. The limestones of Ha Long Bay have been eroded into a mature landscape of fengcong (clusters of conical peaks) and fenglin (isolated tower features) karst features, modified by sea invasion at a later stage. The smaller islands are fenglin towers of 50 meters to 100 meters high with height. Many have vertical walls on all or most sides and these continue to evolve by rock falls and large slab failures.

Marine invasion of Ha Long Bay has added an extra element to the normal process of lateral undercutting of the limestone towers and islands. The most conspicuous feature being the main notch cut into the entire rocky coastline. Notches are a feature of limestone cliffs worldwide, but those of Ha Long Bay are exceptionally well developed and, at many sites, extend into arches and caves. This process of undercutting and subsequent erosion maintains the steep faces of the fenglin karst towers and thereby perpetuates the spectacular nature of the landscape.

A distinctive feature of Ha Long Bay is the abundance of lakes within the larger limestone islands. Extensive limestone caves represent another important feature of Ha Long Bay, with three main types able to be identified: old phreatic caves formed below the water table of the time; old karstic foot caves formed by lateral undercutting of cliffs at base level; and marine notch caves formed at sea level where rock structures are powerfully eroded and eventually reduced to a wave cut platform.

BIOLOGICAL DIVERSITY AND ECOLOGY OF HA LONG BAY

Results of scientific research show that Halong Bay features ecosystems of a tropical ocean region such as ecosystem of coral reefs with 232 species of coral distributed mainly in the areas of Cong Do and Bo Hung. It is also home to 81 species of gastropoda, 130 species of bivalvia, 55 species of polycheta and 57 species of crab. The ecosystem of salt water-flooded forests chiefly concentrated in the zones of Tuan Chau, Cua Luc and Ba Che has the most diversified collection of species of salt water-flooded plant in North Vietnam. Also living in this ecosystem are a great many species of animals: migrating birds (200 species), polycheta (169 species), seaweed (91 species), reptile (10 species). Halong Bay also has ecosystem of tropical rain forests with various rare and precious creatures: deer, weasels, squirrels and in particular, white-tabby and red-haired monkeys. In addition, there is a system of small caves along the sea, which are the living and development places for many animals and plants: seaweed, water plant, algae, fish and shrimp. Deeper into the water, there are also many species of shrimp, fish, abalone and other sea-specialities. [Source: UNESCO]

Halong Bay is situated within an area of high tourism, marine transport, fisheries and the daily activities of people living and conducting their business. Socio-economic activities on Ha Long Bay are well regulated, carefully observed and effectively managed. Management and protection are further strengthened through regulations, master planning, and action plans at the provincial level. These include regulations on operation of tourist boats, mud dredging, land filling, fishermen and floating house management. Increasing visitor numbers and associated impacts continue to impact on the management of the area. The sensitivity, aesthetic quality and attention to public safety of infrastructure such as pathways, steps and boardwalks is of a high standard and with steadily increasing visitor numbers the quality of visitor management is also steadily improving. Development pressures associated with growing tourist numbers continue to be an issue for government authorities and an appropriate balance between conservation and development, while difficult to maintain, is important to ensure the protection of the natural values of the property.

TOURISM IN HALONG BAY

Ha Long Bay is one of Vietnam’s top tourist attractions, drawing more than 5 million visitors a year to the area, about half of them foreigners. Many visitors stay overnight on wooden boats. These are mostly fake junks that look roughly like junks, but they have a couple small, unfunctional sails and operate with an engine.

More than 100 cruise boats are licensed to offer overnight service there. These wooden boats are equipped with sleeping cabins and eating quarters. A typical boat is 28.7 meters (94 feet) long and seven meters (23 feet) wide, equipped to carry 30 passengers, including 20 passengers for its 10 cabins. Passengers sleep and eat onboard the boats.

Tours of Halong Bay can arranged in both Hanoi and Halong Bay town, where there is plenty of accommodation. There is little to see in the town of Halong Bay. The islands are best seen via a boat trip of at least one day. Tours are easily organized through hotels and tour agencies in Hanoi.

The organized tours tend to be offered in one day, one night, two night, three night and five night packages from Hanoi. The journey from Hanoi takes three or four hours because of stops along the way, traffic and occasional minibus breakdowns. It takes about one to two hours to reach the islands in Ha Long Bay from the boat dock outside Halong City. The one day trips cost about $60; the one night ones about $100; the two nights about $140 and three night and five night packages more depending on what get. Meals are provided but not drinks. The operators of the boats make a lot of their money sticking passengers with large bar bills.

One day tours are spent mostly on the bus going from Hanoi to Halong Bay and back again with a quick boat trip in between to the islands of Halong Bay. The one night trip generally involves a minibus trip from Hanoi to Halong Bay dock, a boat trip to the islands, over night and dinner and partying on the boat then, the next day, a boat trip back to the dock and then the minibus trip back to Hanoi. The two night trips are the same as above except you get an extra day, often in a hotel on Cat Ba island with a trek and various activities on that island.

The main drawback with one- and two-night trips is that all the boats tend to go to one place and visit the same cave and islands there. The boat trip more or less goes to this place and anchors there. Visitors do a few activities there such as sea kayaking for 40 minutes and swimming, and hanging out on an anchored boat within shouting distance of a bunch of other boats and then go back the next day or continue on to Cat Ba Island. It can be fun partying with the people on the boat but the boat doesn’t really tour about the islands so much. It mainly just goes to this one spot. Three night and five night packages may involve more touring around and more time sea kayaking but more likely they will send you to Cat Ba Island to see the monkeys there or something like. To really tour around the islands, see a lot of different places and spend a lot of time sea kayaking and otherwise truly soaking in the atmosphere of the place you probably have to spend a lot more money to go with a fancy eco-tourism group.

If you are in Ha Long city you can possibly to get together with other travelers and hire a boat and get them to do what you want but this is time consuming and you could end up with a lousy boat and crew. The huge array of slow 'junk' tour boats for package tourists. Real junks (with working sails and no engine) are too slow and at the mercy of the wind to adequately tour the islands.

HALONG CITY

HALONG CITY is the cultural, economic and political center of Quang Ninh Province. Formerly known as Hon Gai Town, it borders Cam Pha to the east, the Yen Hung District to the west, the Hoanh Bo District to the north and Halong Bay to the south with the coastline of 20 kilometers. The city is divided into two parts: East Halong and West Halong. The eastern part is an industrial zone where most of the province's official buildings are also concentrated. The western part, also called Bai Chay, is the animated tourism zone.

Halong City covers 208.7 square kilometers and is home to about 185,228 people (year 2001). Administrative division: Wards: Ha Khanh, Ha Lam, Ha Trung, Ha Phong, Ha Tu, Hong Hai, Cao Thang, Cao Xanh, Yet Kieu, Tran Hung Dao, Bach Dang, Hon Gai, Bai Chay, Hong Ha, Ha Khau, Gieng Day, Hung Thang, Tuan Chau; Communes: Viet Hung, Dai Yen. The largest ethnic groups in the province are the Mainly the Viet (or Kinh). The bus station is on Halong Road, Bai Chay. Tel: (84 - 33) 3847 410.

Sights In and Around Halong City: An Sinh Temple and Tran Tombs of the Tran Dynasty are situated in the An Sinh Commune, Dong Trieu District, Quang Ninh Province. Built in the period of Tran Dynasty and restored many times under the following Le and Nguyen Dynasties, they are scattered on an area of 20 kilometers in radius, dedicated to the eight emperors of the Tran Dynasty. Apart from the building of ceremonial shrines at every tomb, the An Sinh Temple was also built with many large shrines for the celebration of anniversary ceremonies. The whole zone became a sacred area held in solemn reverence throughout the Tran, Le and Nguyen Dynasties.

Over time, the area has severely deteriorated, but today, it is gradually being restored. An Sinh Temple Area belongs to Nghia Hung Hamlet which is used to dedicate eight kings of Tran and the tombs of Tran Thai Tong, Tran Thanh Tong and Gian Dinh De. Tran Anh Tong Tomb is located in Loc Camp, Tran Minh Tong Tomb is in Khe Gach, Tran Hien Tong Tomb is in Ao Beo, Tran Du Tong Tomb is in Dong Tron, Tran Nghe Tong Tomb is in Khe Nghe areas. Besides the temples at each tomb, many big temples were built in the An Sinh Temple Area by the court for respect-paying audience. It was defended carefully by mandarins. This area became a solemn holy land through Tran, Le, Nguyen Dynasties.

Bai Tho Mountain lies at the heart of Halong City. From afar, the 106-meter-limestone mountain looks like a huge castle with three imposing towers. Its past name Truyen Dang means Light Projecting. This mountain has inspired many poets. In 1468, during his inspection tour to the eastern region, King Le Thanh Tong stopped here. Inspired by the stunning beauty of Halong, the King wrote a poem and had it carved into the southern side of the mountain, hence its name Bai Tho (Poem). In 1729, Lord Trinh Cuong composed a poem in response to that of King Le Thanh Tong and also had it carved near the former. The mountain features other poems by Nguyen Can and some other poets. On top Bai Tho Mountain, there are magnificent views of Halong Bay.

Cua Van Fishing Village is situated at Hung Thang Commune, 20 kilometers away from the tourist boat wharf. Lying on a calm bay backed by mountains, it is home to 733 people in 176 households. They mainly earn their livelihood by fishing. Tourists sometimes come by to check out the floating houses. The well-off families even have tiled roof houses with radios, television sets, tables and chairs. The village school has four classrooms and one small room for teachers. They are the first floating classrooms in Ha Long. At present, Cua Van has 7 classes, mainly for grade 1 and grade 2. The youngest pupil is 8, while the oldest one is 17. It is interesting to see the children going to school in small boats driven by tiny oars.

CAT BA ISLAND

CAT BA ISLAND (near Haiphong and Ha Long Bay, two hours from Hanoi to Haiphong by car or train and then on a high-speed vessel for another hour) is a popular tourist spot with forests mountain scenery, water sports and beaches. Covering 100 square kilometers, it the biggest island out of the 366 islands on the Lan Ha Bay.

Visitors can hire a motorbike to ride to any place visitors want to visit. First of all, visitors should rent a room in a hotel, because the hotels on this island are often overcrowded due to the ever-increasing number of visitors to Cat Ba Island, although more hotels and hostels are being built. It is very pleasant to stay in a hotel, whose back leans against the mountain and its face looks towards the sea, and enjoy the fresh air and beautiful scenery around.

Visiting the large beaches of Cat Co and Cat Dua, which are separated by a small range of mountain, visitors can swim in the blue and warm water. Visitors can hire a motor boat to sail to the small islets, where there are calm and clean beaches, such as the Cat Trai Gai, Duong Gianh and Hien Hao. The mountain adjacent to Cat Co Beach has a tunnel and caves such as Hang Luon, Khe Sau, Trung Trang, Gia Luan and Kim Cuong. In the evening visitors can enjoy the sunset over Lan Ha Bay.

Cat Ba National Park (20 miles east of Haiphong) encompasses about half of Cat Ba island and the 300 or so islet that surround it. Reached by boat from Haiphong, it is a wonderful place with beaches with clean white sand and clear water, mangroves, freshwater swamps forests, waterfalls, limestone rock formations, caves, and offshore coral reefs. The national park’s forest are home to rare Francious monkey, wild boar, hornbills, deer and other animals. The corals reefs contains 200 different kinds of fish and 400 species of mollusk.

ISLANDS IN HALONG BAY

ISLANDS IN HALONG BAY include Bo Hon Island, a beautiful island popular with tourists not only because of its splendid scenery but also because it is one of the largest in the area. There are many grottoes located here, such as the Surprise, Luon, Virgin and Male grottoes. There is also a concentration of hills with vertical cliffs like citadel wall. The French called this island Les Surprises. There are various species of plants such as benjamin fig trees, cycads and orchids... and animals such monkeys, deer and goats. Bo Hon Island is also famous for its many caves. Each of them has a legend related to it.

Am Islet (on the route to Quan Lan – Ngoc Vung Islands) in Bai Tu Long Bay is also known as Kettle Islet. Jutting out of the seawaters, it is named after the teapot of the Jade Emperor, who accidentally dropped it into Halong so its handle was broken.

Ba Trai Dao Islet (22 kilometers from south of Bai Chay Tourist Wharf) island consists of three hills with the height of 23 meters, seen from afar, resemble three peaches (Ba Trai Dao). The island is connected to a legend of about the romantic love between a young fairy, who was very pretty, and a young, poor fisherman. Because of feeling in love with him, she stole three peaches from Heaven for him, which if he ate. This gave him eternal life, allowing them to live together forever. The King of the Heavens discovered the robbery and turned the peaches into three stone islands. Chastised, the young fairy had to return. Today, Ba Trai Dao is a famous tourist attraction with three nice beaches.

It takes 10 hours by cruise boat from Bai Chay Tourist Wharf to reach Ba Trai Dao. Ba Trai Dao Beach is popular with tourists. It features three small sand beaches embracing small islands. These islands, seen from afar, resemble three peaches. Tourists can only uses these beaches when the tide is low.

Ba Mun Island is a schist island that stretches out parallel to Quan Lan Island. Also known as Cao Lo Island, it is 15 kilometers from the shore, 1,800 hectares in area with more than 20 kilometers long. It consists of a narrow stretch of earth and stone that runs east to west. The highest peak, Quit Mountain, is 397 meters high. The fauna and flora here are very plentiful.

Ba Mun Island is the only island in Halong Bay that is home to a primitive forest. There are countless species of plants and trees, some with giant trunks. This forest is also home to many rare animals such as wild goats, deer and monkeys. It is said that many years ago tigers, panthers and elephants resided on the island. In order to help preserve the forest, in 1997, the government established Bai Tu Long National Park on the island.

CAVES IN HALONG BAY

CAVES IN HALONG BAY include Pelican cave, named after the pelicans that used to live here; Dau Go cave, a former pirate hideout with three main chambers filled with thousands of stalactites and stalagmites; and Trunh Nu (Virgin Girl) Grotto, named after a girl who lived here after being kidnaped by a mandarin and refusing to sleep with him.

Ba Ham Cave Lake is situated on the south side of Halong Bay on Dau Be Island (Calf Head Island) in Lan Ha Bay. The island is part of the range of islands at the farthest end of Halong Bay, bordering the immense zone Long Chau Sea. Ba Ham Lake is situated in the middle of a narrow, rectangular area, with the all four sides enclosed by vertical cliffs.

The lake is part of a system comprising three wide and round pits, linked together by a narrow and meandering tunnel. Stalactites hang from the ceiling in a myriad of strange, colored forms. The silence is disturbed only by the sounds of the boats oars. On the island are many species of plants such as orchids, benjamin figs, banyans and cycads, which blossom throughout the year. It is also the home of yellow-haired monkeys, birds, flying squirrels and bats.

Although 25 kilometers from the shore it has long been considered an ideal tourism zone, the entrance is an open semi-circular hole in the flat stone wall on the north-west side of the island, 4 to five meters above the sea. Starting from the entrance, tourists enter the first tunnel, which boasts a forest of stalactites and stalagmites in different shapes and various colours. They fall down the water surface like the roots of banyan or ficus trees. The deeper one pushes into the tunnel, the darker it becomes. The river is deep yet so clear that one can see shoals of fish swimming. Some 100 meters from the entrance one finds a shaft of light coming from the roof of the tunnel, which reveals different kinds of orchids clinging to the cliff, cycads growing here and there, truc duoi ga (a kind of reed with cocks tail-liked yellow leaves) flourishing in clumps. In the southeast cliff of the second tunnel there is an old carambola tree, which bears fruits all year round. Tourists can find groups of monkeys, flying squirrels, or silver-headed parrots gathering in its branches. Lying one cliff away from the second one, the third tunnel is home to various species of bats and butterflies.

Vung Duc Temple and Grottoes (45 kilometers to the north-east of Halong City) is located by the Bai Tu Long Bay in the Cam Pha Town at the foot of Ban Co Mountain, This unique tourist site is composed of five imposing caves: Thien Dang - Long Van - Ngo Ngang - Kim Quy - Doi that can be accessed by a car cable system. In Thien Dang Cave, at an ideal elevation, tourists can get a view of the Bai Tu Long Bay. In Vung Duc, you can call on some islands and beauty spots such as Bai Tu Long National Park, The Vang Island, Cong Tay and The Vang Island eco-tourist zones.

Yen Trung Tourist Site (on road 18A connecting Hanoi with Halong) features a wide and beautiful lake surrounded by pine hills. In the middle of the lakes are islets covered with green trees. Tourists can boat around the lake or call on the islets or fish for pleasure. Yen Trung is a hamlet inhabited by Muong located on a high hill and composed of three house-on-stilt fashioned after Muong style. Tourists may explore the life of the Muong community through the objects on display such as ovens, pots for cooking wine, mills, rice grinders, hunting tools, beds, blankets and pillow. In the future this tourist site will have hamlets of the Tay, Nung and Thai people. , and more kinds of services will come into operation. Yen Trung Tourist Site is on road 18A connecting Hanoi with Halong, about five kilometers from Yen Tu, 10 kilometers from Uong Bi. At a signpost take a right fork onto a paved road. Further on for 500 meters from the entrance the lake.

BOAT ACCIDENTS IN HALONG BAY

Halong Bay has had at least three fatal boat sinkings in the previous decade. Storms or windy conditions were blamed for sinkings in 2009, 2006 and 2002 that killed at least a dozen people in all.

In September 2009, a packed tourist boat carrying 25 passengers capsized in Halong Bay during heavy rain, killing three foreign tourists and two Vietnamese. Simone Whey of The Guardian wrote: “Two British tourists, believed to be in their 20s, drowned after a packed boat carrying 25 passengers and seven crew capsized in choppy seas in Halong Bay, a popular Vietnamese holiday spot, the Foreign Office said. A French man and two Vietnamese were also killed. The boat sank in the evening as it was returning to port, when heavy rains and strong winds tore through Halong Bay. Other passengers were treated in hospital for shock and hypothermia after the incident, according to reports. Pham Dinh Hoa, a disaster official, said the bodies of a Vietnamese crew member and a local guide were recovered over the weekend, bringing the toll to five. [Source: Simone Whey, The Guardian, September 28, 2009 ~*~]

“Hoa said the vessel was carrying 24 passengers and a six-member crew when it sank. Sunny Bui, manager of Cruise Halong, one of the tour operators that run boat trips to Halong Bay, said an accident of this scale was almost unheard of in the area. "It never happened like this before. There was no warning. [Tour operators] usually hear of typhoons and strong winds in the weather forecast, but this was a whirlwind that only lasted for 15 or 20 minutes, and nobody knew about it." ~*~

In May 2011, Thanh Nien News reported: “A boat with nearly 30 tourists on board sank after another boat crashed into it in Ha Long Bay, but no casualties were reported. The accident happened at around 3 p.m. when the boat, belonging to the Hai Long Company, was anchored some 300 meters from the Ti Top Island. Witnesses said a boat carrying water then crashed into it and the boat with tourists soon began to sink. The victims were saved by people on other tourist boats anchored nearby. [Source: Thanh Nien News, May 9, 2011]

“According to Tuoi Tre, 28 French tourists, a tour guide and 12 Vietnamese crew members were on board when the accident took place. It quoted Dang Huy Hau, vice chairman of Quang Ninh Province’s People’s Committee, as saying that local agencies will salvage the boat to identify the cause.

Tourist Boat Sinks in Halong Bay, Killing 12 People from Nine Countries in 2011

An overnight boat packed with sleeping tourists sank in Vietnam's scenic Ha Long Bay, killing 12 people from nine countries—including the U.S., Britain, Australia, Japan, Russia, France, Sweden and Switzerland— and their Vietnamese guide. It Vietnam’s deadliest tour boat accident since opening up to foreign visitors in the mid 1980s.

The China Daily reported: “Nine foreign tourists and six locals were rescued from the chilly water by other tour boats anchored nearby. They were rushed to a hospital as teams scoured the area for more survivors. Those rescued reported seeing a plank of the wooden live-aboard ship ripping away, followed by gushing water inundating the boat and quickly pulling it down around 5 am near Titov Island, said Vu Van Thin, chief administrator of Quang Ninh province. "Crew members tried to stop the water from coming in and alerted the tourists who were sleeping, but the water came in and the boat sank quickly," he said. "All of the 12 people who died were in the cabins." [Source: China Daily, February 18, 2011 +++]

“There were 27 people on the boat, including six crew members, Thin said. It was anchored alongside dozens of other cruise boats, and weather conditions were calm at the time of the incident. Twelve bodies have been found, including those of tourists from the United States, Australia and the United Kingdom, said Ngo Van Hung, director of Ha Long Bay's management board. The body of a Vietnamese tour guide was also recovered, and all of the dead have been sent to Bai Chay Hospital for identification. Japan's Kyodo news agency reported that one Japanese was among the dead. +++

Dinh Tran Trung Hau of Associated Press wrote: “There were 27 people, including six crew members, aboard the boat and all have been accounted for, Thin said. The vessel, which is owned by Truong Hai Co., was anchored alongside dozens of other cruise boats and weather conditions were calm at the time of the sinking. The dead have been sent to Bai Chay Hospital for identification, where survivors received treatment for minor injuries, said Ngo Van Hung, director of Ha Long Bay's management board. The official Vietnam News Agency published the victims' names and ages, most of them aged 20 to 25, seven were women. They include a Briton, two Americans, one Japanese, one French, two Swedes, two Russians, one Swiss and one person of Vietnamese origin living in Australia, according to the government. Divers worked to free the bodies still inside. Several feet of the masts were still visible, and Thin said crews were working to bring in a crane to pull the boat out. [Source: Dinh Tran Trung Hau, AP, February 17, 2011]

Survivors of the Tourist Boat That Sunk in Halong Bay: Dinh Tran Trung Hau of Associated Press wrote: “Italian traveler Stefano Corda felt an ominous tilt as dinner was served, but his tour boat crew assured him everything was fine. A few hours later, Corda and his friend jumped for their lives into Vietnam's famed Ha Long Bay as water raced inside the wooden vessel, sucking it down. All were sleeping on the overnight ship, named Bien Mo or Dream of the Ocean, which was anchored in about 30 feet (10 meters) of water near a small island. Nine foreigners and six Vietnamese survived only by flinging themselves overboard and swimming to other tour boats anchored nearby. [Source: Dinh Tran Trung Hau, AP, February 17, 2011 \+\]

"We woke up at 5, and the boat took one minute to sink," Corda, 35, of Palermo, Italy, told Associated Press Television News. "We went to the exit and the boat was almost vertical. I grabbed my friend, we went out, and it was so fast." Corda's friend, Stefano Sacconi, 33, of Rome, was in the bathroom just before the disaster struck. He thought he felt the boat buckling on its right side and soon realized they needed to get out. And fast. "We started to hear tables and glasses falling from the top of the restaurant," he said. "After that, my friend went out. He called me, 'Come up! Come up! Something's wrong here! The boat is going down!'" They jumped and swam to another nearby ship. \+\

“Other survivors reported seeing a wooden plank ripping away from the ship around 5 a.m., followed by gushing water inundating the boat and quickly pulling it under near Titov island, about an hour from mainland's shore, said Vu Van Thin, chief administrator of Quang Ninh province. The boat was still anchored from the night when it sank. One American was Samantha Kay Taylor, a recent graduate of the University of Colorado at Boulder, who was overseas teaching in China and traveling. Her boyfriend, George Fosmire, 23, a University of Colorado at Boulder student, was traveling with her, and after the accident, went to the morgue to help identify the bodies of his girlfriend and their good friend, said Fosmire's father, William Fosmire of Golden, Colo., in an Associated Press interview. \+\

“Vietnam's foreign ministry confirmed the survivors as two Danes, one German, two Italians, one American, one Australian, one French and one Swiss. "This is a very rare and very unfortunate accident," said Foreign Ministry spokeswoman Nguyen Phuong Nga. She said tour companies should improve safety measures in Ha Long Bay. \+\

Captain of Tourist Boat That Sunk in Halong Bay Had a Bad Record: Dinh Tran Trung Hau of Associated Press wrote: “Police are investigating what caused the accident, and a Vietnamese official called for checks on safety of the more than 100 tour boats that ply the bay. The boat captain and crew were summoned for questioning, said Le Thanh Binh, a spokesman of Quang Ninh police. The Transport newspaper, published by the government, reported that the boat was put into operation in November 2008 and licensed to provide overnight services. It passed its last safety check four months ago and was 28.7 meters (94 feet) long and 7 meters (23 feet) wide. It was equipped to carry 30 passengers, including 20 passengers for its 10 cabins, it said. [Source: Dinh Tran Trung Hau, AP, February 17, 2011]

In February 2012, AFP reported that the tour boat that sank in Halong Bay, killing 12 tourists, is owned by a company linked to another deadly accident two years before, police say. Vu Tuan Hung, of the Quang Ninh water police, confirmed media reports that the boat owner, Truong Hai Co, was involved in another deadly accident in September 2009 when it operated under a different name. In the previous incident a boat of the company's sank during heavy rain, killing three foreign tourists and a local guide, Thanh Nien newspaper reported this weekend. [Source: AFP, February 20, 2011 <=>]

At the time Thanh Nien said the boat, which was new, had breached several regulations, prompting authorities to pledge stricter enforcement of seaworthiness standards and registration rules. Hung said officials planned to announce on Monday the results of their probe into the latest sinking to foreign ambassadors and families of the victims. The crew have been questioned but no one has been arrested. Initial information from the sailors suggested that the boat, Dream Voyage, sank because of a break in the lower hull, police said. It took on water so fast that sleeping passengers had almost no time to escape the torrent that filled their cabins. <=>

In May 2011, Thanh Nien News reported: “The accident was later identified as having been caused by human error — the valve that allows water to come into the boat to cool the engine wasn’t closed properly before the crew went to bed. The tragedy prompted local authorities to launch inspections into boats operating in the bay. The operations of the company that organized the tour and the one that owned the boat were both suspended.[Source: Thanh Nien News, May 9, 2011]

Vietnam Bans Coal Shipping in Halong Bay Heritage Area In October 2006, AFP reported: “Vietnam has banned coal shipping in Halong Bay to reduce industrial pollution in the World Heritage-listed island seascape, industry officials said. "We have decided to stop all coal shipping activities in Halong Bay to protect the environment, from November 1," said Pham Trung Hung, head of the Vietnam National Coal and Mineral Industries Group (Vinacomin). The group has also agreed with Quang Ninh provincial authorities to move all coal ports to Bai Tu Long Bay, 50 kilometers northeast of Halong Bay, he said. UNESCO has in the past raised concerns about threats facing the area 160 kilometers (100 miles) east of Hanoi in the Gulf of Tonkin. These include the rapid expansion of floating fishing villages, tourism infrastructure development and industrialization. [Source: Agence France Presse October 31, 2006]

"We are delighted about (the decision)," said Chu Shiu-Kee, Vietnam chief of the UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization. "Coal loading and unloading in the World Heritage buffer zone has been an issue we have been requesting the provincial government to do something about. "It's not just making the water dirty with coal dust. The shipping concentrated in those areas has also caused other kinds of pollution."

In August 2000, Reuters reported: “At least six people were killed, two of them Indian tourists, and several reported missing, including a Thai tourist, after tropical storm Kaemi lashed Vietnam's coast, police and officials said. Police said the two Indian tourists drowned after a whirlwind capsized two tour boats in Halong Bay. An officer told Reuters two Vietnamese women and a female Thai tourist were still missing, but 16 other people had been rescued from the boats. [Source: Reuters, August 23, 2000]

Image Sources:

Text Sources: New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, Times of London, Lonely Planet Guides, Library of Congress, Vietnamtourism. com, Vietnam National Administration of Tourism, CIA World Factbook, Compton’s Encyclopedia, The Guardian, National Geographic, Smithsonian magazine, The New Yorker, Time, Newsweek, Reuters, AP, AFP, Wall Street Journal, The Atlantic Monthly, The Economist, Global Viewpoint (Christian Science Monitor), Foreign Policy, Wikipedia, BBC, CNN, Fox News and various websites, books and other publications identified in the text.

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© 2008 Jeffrey Hays

Last updated May 2014

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